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I went shooting yesterday for the first time in a LONG time. I was shooting an AR15 and found my accuracy hasn't changed no matter how little I practice... My
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I went shooting yesterday for the first time in a LONG time. I was shooting an AR15 and found my accuracy hasn't changed no matter how little I practice... My grouping kind of still sucks, but at least I know I'm freaking lethal from 100 yards.
![]() Go me!!! But I agree. Wrong forum. ![]()
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Was is built or did you buy it already put together? If built what brands do you have on it? Pics?
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tv:
re twist rates and bullets: Rifles are called rifles because the barrel has "rifling", which is a set of grooves (or something close to that) engraved in the inside of the barrel. These grooves twist, and their primary purpose is to impart a spin to the departing bullet to make it stable in flight. 1:7 is the ratio of the spin, and is the tightest spin generally available on a 5.56 cal AR-15. 1:9 is the common "compromise" twist rate, and you'll also see some 1:10 and even 1:12 guns. The tighter you make the twist rate, the heavier bullet your barrel can stabilize. The downside is that if the twist rate is too tight and you shoot very lightweight bullets, they could fly apart and fragment in the air from excess twist. People who use an AR-15 to kill very small game (called "varmint" gun builds, because they're used to shoot small varmints like groundhogs and squirrels, etc) like to use very light bullets (40-55gr weight) at very high velocities, so for them a looser twist makes sense (1:10 or 1:12). Standard issue US military ball ammo in 5.56 comes in 55gr (which will stabilize and be reliable in just about any twist rate) and 62gr (works fine in 1:7 and 1:9 barrels, but may not stabilize well in 1:10 or 1:12 barrels). But according to modern ballistics research, the best performing rounds (on humans) in 5.56 tend to be the really heavy ones, like the 69gr, 75gr, 78gr, and yes even crazy 80gr rounds. 75gr Hornady TAP is very popular for a defensive round in the AR-15, for example. None of the heavier ones will stabilize in 1:9 reliably, only in 1:7. Some people have success with the 69 in a 1:9 barrel, but it's kindof a crapshoot depending on the barrel and bullet mfg. Re the uppers you're looking at: The POF upper you're describing is what's known as a piston-driven upper. Piston guns are a matter of a lot of contention and debate in the AR-15 community. The original design of the AR was to be gas-driven, whereas some other rifles like the AK-47 are piston driven. Someone decided you could get the best of both worlds by modifying the AR design to be piston-driven too. Upsides are supposedly less recoil, and that the upper receiver and the bolt stay cleaner (less burnt stuff blowing on them all the time), but they still do require lubrication (don't let anyone tell you not to lube an AR just because it's a piston design, it still needs lube, the lube will just last longer). Downside is it's a relativelty recent and unproven serious design change to a good design that's proven itself well over the course of decades in the field. One of the biggest specific concerns is that the bolt is now driven back with an off-center force, which could cause galling of the upper receiver surface. Also has more small fragile parts than the original design, which may or may not fail early (not enough data). LWRC also makes piston uppers, and are generally considered to be one of the highest quality piston uppers you can buy. If I were going piston, I'd shell out for LWRC instead of POF, but that's just me. Then again, a lot of people will tell you not to mess with a good thing, and just go with the original gas design, which is what you commonly find on all the major AR-15 variants (standard in Colt, Bushmaster, LMT, Knight's, Armalite, etc, etc). |
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Thanks for the info. I was looking into a lwrc but they are really expensive. A few hundred more than the pof's. I'm still considering which to go with right now. I'm willing to spend a decent amount of money for a good quality gun that will last me for a while but i'm not sure if I want drop that kind of money. I do like the pof's but again the lwrc is really good to.
What is the deal with the rail system that pof and lwrc uses. I see some mid and full lengths. What are the big differences between the 2? Is the longer one, your able to put more things on the rail? I have a friend that has a ar and he bought a cheap rail system and it was ugly because it was really big (fat). The rail system on the pof's and lwrc, do you know if they are slim? Just to let you know the bushmaster is illegal in cali lol. I don't know why but that's what they tell me. What brands do you like for lower rec? i was looking into getting a spikes tactical and kaiser defence spikes tactical lower receiver Here's a pic of a 14.5" pof upper POF upper rec. More pof upper rec Other POF upper rec Do you prefer a 16" or a 14.5"?[QUOTE=wstar;99332]tv:
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Going shorter than 16" barrel length involves a bunch of legal hassle with filing NFA tax papers with the Feds, as it's considered a Short Barreled Rifle, which is federally regulated. You may not even be able to own such things in California, I donno. Quote:
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Thanks for all the info and taking your time to answer my questions really appreciate it.
I also wanted to know how much can you shoot out of these type of rifles before you have to change the barrel? I assume it depends on the quality, but when do you know its time for a new barrel? So, the Noveske is not a piston firing system, it's just a regular high end ar. They are pretty pricey but i'm sure a good quality rifle. I do want your opionion if you had to choose which upper rec to get for the noveske Noveske upper rec And a pof upper rec POF upper rec
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how about 1:8 twist? I've seen this on some ar 15. My pof has a 1:8 twist.
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I donno, I've never read up much on people's experiences with 1:8. I would assume it's fine for at least 69gr ammo, and probably 75gr. Not so sure about the super-heavies like 78's and 80's though. 1:7 is kinda the official standard for short barrels and heavy bullets though, and it's what you get on real M4's. Slower twists are compromises to be sure you don't spin-fragment light bullets, but 55gr ammo works fine in 1:7, and there's really no use for shooting anything lighter than that unless you're actually doing the varmint-hunting thing (as in, using an AR to kill groundhogs and the like).
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1:8 twist is what my Les Baer AR-15 is. The best bullet weight for 1:8 twist is between 60 and 77 grains. It can perform well with light bullets down to 55grains as long as the jacket isn't too thin.
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Good to know. I have a pof upper that is a 1:8 twist.
I have 1k rounds of centurion ammo (55g) and i'm looking to buy some different range of bullet weight to test out my upper. But it's so expensive. I'm going to try to get some 60's to 77's weight ammo.
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I ended up getting the POF. I think the lwrci is a good brand. But they are way over priced. Personal opinion. I think one of the reason they are more expensive is because they have a good reputation for customer service and they been on a few magazine reviews and couple of tv shows that talked about the lwrci brand. I think because of the TV reviews and magazine reviews they drove their prices up.
POF does have good quality makes and finishes on their products. I think the barrel on the POF is a little better in quality compared to the lwrci or other brands in general. But POF has some really bad customer service issues. At least that's what i've read about.
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It was built. It's not mine. I prefer not to own a gun, just know how to use 'em. I'm moving to the beach in a couple weeks, so I may buy a 1911. But aside from that, there's no need to have an assault rifle. A good hand gun is all you really need for house-hold protection. MAYBE a shotgun.
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