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Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z Let the barrel cool off and see if it's still shooting "wild." If so, I'd try giving the barrel a good cleaning. If that doesn't help,

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Old 05-16-2015, 04:22 PM   #4036 (permalink)
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Let the barrel cool off and see if it's still shooting "wild." If so, I'd try giving the barrel a good cleaning. If that doesn't help, I'd look at the scope, bedding, &c.
Not wild but low. Back home now, all clean etc. if it was the gun then next time out I'll be low. If its on still then it's gotta be the scope right? I did have 2 10-15 round full bursts so the scope did see some vibration.
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:24 AM   #4037 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z View Post
Any recommendations for places to buy miscellaneous AR-15/M-16 parts online?

I've found upper/lower receivers, internals for those and barrel/gasblock/tube locally but am having problems locating some of the "little" things like forestock delta ring/retainer (but was able to find the spring and front retainer, go figure), nut for flash suppressor (I prefer that to a crush washer), plain-jane forestock for 20" barrel, old-style fixed buttstock with storage, &c.

TIA
Here.

http://www.brownells.com/search/inde...arts&ksubmit=y
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:32 AM   #4038 (permalink)
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Not wide but low. Back home now, all clean etc. if it was the gun then next time out I'll be low. If its on still then it's gotta be the scope right? I did have 2 10-15 round full bursts so the scope did see some vibration.
Make sure your barrel nut is tight, and your scope mounts. Look into your scope through the big end. As you are looking through it. Focus on the cross hairs. Now tap the side of the scope to see if the cross hairs wiggle.
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Old 05-18-2015, 04:33 PM   #4039 (permalink)
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Make sure your barrel nut is tight, and your scope mounts. Look into your scope through the big end. As you are looking through it. Focus on the cross hairs. Now tap the side of the scope to see if the cross hairs wiggle.
Nope all's good.
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Old 05-18-2015, 10:14 PM   #4040 (permalink)
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Next time out. Check your zero. Shoot slow. Take your time. After that. If your group doesn't change. Shoot a rapid bunch or two. See what happens to your group. If it starts to string out. Vert or Hor in a some what straight line. Something is pushing the barrel when it gets hot. Let the gun cool off. Then shoot a slow bunch again. And see what the group looks like.

Have a 7mm Rem Mag that would shoot dime size groups all day long. Long as the barrel didn't get too warm. Once warm, it would start to go vert with each shot. Found that the stock had a tit at the end that just touched the barrel. When the barrel heated up. It would push the point of impact up with each shot. Since I fixed it. It will shoot dime size groups no matter the barrel temp now.
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Old 05-19-2015, 08:26 AM   #4041 (permalink)
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Next time out. Check your zero. Shoot slow. Take your time. After that. If your group doesn't change. Shoot a rapid bunch or two. See what happens to your group. If it starts to string out. Vert or Hor in a some what straight line. Something is pushing the barrel when it gets hot. Let the gun cool off. Then shoot a slow bunch again. And see what the group looks like.

Have a 7mm Rem Mag that would shoot dime size groups all day long. Long as the barrel didn't get too warm. Once warm, it would start to go vert with each shot. Found that the stock had a tit at the end that just touched the barrel. When the barrel heated up. It would push the point of impact up with each shot. Since I fixed it. It will shoot dime size groups no matter the barrel temp now.
Vert or Hor?
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Old 05-19-2015, 10:25 PM   #4042 (permalink)
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Doesn't matter. If the string goes vert or hor. When the barrel gets warm. Which way does the string go? Up or down? Left or right? Or a combination? And does it repeat? After cooling and starting again.
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Old 05-19-2015, 10:59 PM   #4043 (permalink)
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Doesn't matter. If the string goes vert or hor. When the barrel gets warm. Which way does the string go? Up or down? Left or right? Or a combination? And does it repeat? After cooling and starting again.
Gotcha. It was 2" down. We'll see again soon.
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Old 05-22-2015, 02:48 AM   #4044 (permalink)
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my shield doesn't bulge cases either.

I have the APEX trigger on it. The original trigger is absolute garbage. It's a widely known downfall. Great gun! even better with the trigger work!
Triggers in my M&P's have been great. APEX is "meh". I tried a full APEX setup ($200+!) and it felt much worse to me. The owner of the APEX M&P was mad as hell, too, considering my box-stock M&P9 was noticeably nicer. He was running around having everyone who's department issued M&P's look at mine and demanded I strip it down to prove it was OEM, lol
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Old 05-22-2015, 02:50 AM   #4045 (permalink)
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Just a quick review of mine on the Aimpoint T2 paired with the G33 magnifier.


I have so far had 3 other people look through my T2 and G33 combo. Everyone wonders...is the t2 really a crisp dot or not? 1 person said it was like 2 dots on top of each other. Myself and the other 2 see a crisp dot. Defined edges. To be fair to the guy who didn't see this...he did not adjust the diopter. It may well have been an issue of diopter. But to me once it's dialed in, I saw a very crisp dot!


So how does it do in the real world? Well, I stuck to 50 yards because that is the limit at which with my vision I can shoot the same groups roughly magnified or unmagnified. My first test was for POI shift from unmagnified (group on the left) to magnified (group on the right). I used RA556B for this test. 5 show groups.



Next was my question of...does the dot have to be centered in the g33? What if the adjustment knobs get messed with after I zero? So I fired 3 rounds with the dot centered. 3 rounds with the magnifier adjusted so that the dot was in the extreme bottom left and 3/4 of the sigh picture was shadowed. Then did the same with the dot in the upper right. 9 shots total at 50 yards. I used mk262 IMI. Please excuse my flier. I am not Molon, and this is a chrome lined .gov 16" barrel.


As you can see...poi shift seems nonexistent. I am very pleased with the added capabilities that the g33 brings to the t2. Total weight with mounts is roughly 17oz.

Oh...and here is my Internet commando group of the day. 3 shots ra556b unmagnified at 50y. Ignore the one flier...:P



Quirks...

When magnified in the right light you can see the diode housing faintly around the dot if you dial illumination a couple settings higher than necessary. It's a quirk but a non issue.

The bobro absolute cw spacer is too low for the g33 without riser. The lower 1/3 bobro is perfect as pictured.

Having a suppressed m4 on a public range gets me more attention that driving a c6 z06 did. If you want to be popular...

The magnifier didn't much improve my groups if any at 50, but it was very useful for making those shots easily. I had to work without it.

I think the adjustable diopter is mandatory for a clear dot. This made the g33 my choice over the Aimpoint model.

"Bloom" around the dot is much more noticeable with the G33 in place. Dot intensity matters more than unmagnified but it won't hurt ability to engage. It just isn't picture perfect. There is some halo/Starburst around the still crisp and defined dot. This is evident only to me at night, or in very overcast weather. It will not interfere with shot placement or PID, but it's something to be aware of. This is not an etched reticle, it's still a "ball of light".

It looks like at 50 yards with a rds my ddm4 is a 1 moa gun with mk262 and a 2 moa gun with ra556b. Not shabby!

*All shots off a concrete bench using the magazine as a monopod. DDM4 built by Daniel Defense, 16.1" CHF Chrome lined barrel, with Surefire 556-212 suppressor in place, using 212a muzzle device. Geissele SSA trigger. Target squares are true 1".

Stretching things out to 100 yards, the G33 REALLY helped the process.
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Old 05-22-2015, 11:46 PM   #4046 (permalink)
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Ok, here's the first (I think) Sightron SVSS 10-50x60 mounted on a rifle in Canada (?). Well, I might be wrong about that claim, but anyways... On top of a Near Alpha MD34 x 1.25 TaCap mount on a PGW Coyote rifle. Now, I won't get a chance to try it out until after June 1st because my range is closed for reno's and re-certification. But boy, I can't wait!! (Since the rifle is also new.)




btw, it's a .308
Took this out to 1200m today! What a blast!
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Old 05-23-2015, 07:42 AM   #4047 (permalink)
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Took this out to 1200m today! What a blast!
Might be a nice shootin' rifle. But not a fan of twisted fluted barrels. Sorry.
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Old 05-23-2015, 07:48 AM   #4048 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ImportConvert View Post
Just a quick review of mine on the Aimpoint T2 paired with the G33 magnifier.


I have so far had 3 other people look through my T2 and G33 combo. Everyone wonders...is the t2 really a crisp dot or not? 1 person said it was like 2 dots on top of each other. Myself and the other 2 see a crisp dot. Defined edges. To be fair to the guy who didn't see this...he did not adjust the diopter. It may well have been an issue of diopter. But to me once it's dialed in, I saw a very crisp dot!


So how does it do in the real world? Well, I stuck to 50 yards because that is the limit at which with my vision I can shoot the same groups roughly magnified or unmagnified. My first test was for POI shift from unmagnified (group on the left) to magnified (group on the right). I used RA556B for this test. 5 show groups.



Next was my question of...does the dot have to be centered in the g33? What if the adjustment knobs get messed with after I zero? So I fired 3 rounds with the dot centered. 3 rounds with the magnifier adjusted so that the dot was in the extreme bottom left and 3/4 of the sigh picture was shadowed. Then did the same with the dot in the upper right. 9 shots total at 50 yards. I used mk262 IMI. Please excuse my flier. I am not Molon, and this is a chrome lined .gov 16" barrel.


As you can see...poi shift seems nonexistent. I am very pleased with the added capabilities that the g33 brings to the t2. Total weight with mounts is roughly 17oz.

Oh...and here is my Internet commando group of the day. 3 shots ra556b unmagnified at 50y. Ignore the one flier...:P



Quirks...

When magnified in the right light you can see the diode housing faintly around the dot if you dial illumination a couple settings higher than necessary. It's a quirk but a non issue.

The bobro absolute cw spacer is too low for the g33 without riser. The lower 1/3 bobro is perfect as pictured.

Having a suppressed m4 on a public range gets me more attention that driving a c6 z06 did. If you want to be popular...

The magnifier didn't much improve my groups if any at 50, but it was very useful for making those shots easily. I had to work without it.

I think the adjustable diopter is mandatory for a clear dot. This made the g33 my choice over the Aimpoint model.

"Bloom" around the dot is much more noticeable with the G33 in place. Dot intensity matters more than unmagnified but it won't hurt ability to engage. It just isn't picture perfect. There is some halo/Starburst around the still crisp and defined dot. This is evident only to me at night, or in very overcast weather. It will not interfere with shot placement or PID, but it's something to be aware of. This is not an etched reticle, it's still a "ball of light".

It looks like at 50 yards with a rds my ddm4 is a 1 moa gun with mk262 and a 2 moa gun with ra556b. Not shabby!

*All shots off a concrete bench using the magazine as a monopod. DDM4 built by Daniel Defense, 16.1" CHF Chrome lined barrel, with Surefire 556-212 suppressor in place, using 212a muzzle device. Geissele SSA trigger. Target squares are true 1".

Stretching things out to 100 yards, the G33 REALLY helped the process.
Is your point of impact different with/without the muffler?
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Old 05-23-2015, 10:42 AM   #4049 (permalink)
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I have so far had 3 other people look through my T2 and G33 combo. Everyone wonders...is the t2 really a crisp dot or not? 1 person said it was like 2 dots on top of each other. Myself and the other 2 see a crisp dot. Defined edges. To be fair to the guy who didn't see this...he did not adjust the diopter. It may well have been an issue of diopter. But to me once it's dialed in, I saw a very crisp dot!
Different people see the dots on red-dot-sights differently. Some people see a lot of distortion, fuzziness, comma-shape, etc in the dot no matter the magnification or brightness and that variability between people is usually due to amount of astigmatism that their eye's cornea imposes. Some people have so much astigmatism that red-dot-sights simply aren't useable for them, in which case they're better off with a second-focal-plane zoom/magnified optic.

Astigmatism is usually well-corrected with accurately ground prescription lenses. Hint: your 1-hour budget lens grinder at your local mall is usually not the best place to get accurately-ground corrective lenses.

I have a G33 magnifier and a G23 magnifier mounted behind various optics, including my 4 MOA T-1, various Eotechs, and a couple of 2 MOA Aimpoint PROs. The magnifiers work great for me. I flip them down for any shooting 25 yards and farther. The G33 is definitely a significant improvement over the G23.
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Old 05-23-2015, 10:45 AM   #4050 (permalink)
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Different people see the dots on red-dot-sights differently. Some people see a lot of distortion, fuzziness, comma-shape, etc in the dot no matter the magnification or brightness and that variability between people is usually due to amount of astigmatism that their eye's cornea imposes. Some people have so much astigmatism that red-dot-sights simply aren't useable for them, in which case they're better off with a second-focal-plane zoom/magnified optic.

Astigmatism is usually well-corrected with accurately ground prescription lenses. Hint: your 1-hour budget lens grinder at your local mall is usually not the best place to get accurately-ground corrective lenses.
I can second that experience.
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