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OK wiring junkies... help me out here...

My newest idea to get more light into my garage above the Z is to wire either 2 or 4 2-bulb 48" florescent fixtures above the car. I am going

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Old 11-15-2011, 09:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default OK wiring junkies... help me out here...

My newest idea to get more light into my garage above the Z is to wire either 2 or 4 2-bulb 48" florescent fixtures above the car. I am going to run them side by side and will start with just two but if it doesn't cover the car entirely I am going to add two more length wise. I know they make 8ft fixtures but bulb availability is less common and I can't find the fixtures locally.

Basically what my question boils down to is if and how I can wire the fixtures to the existing incandescent bulb (standard garage/basement/attic fixture).

Any sites/diagrams that might help with what I want to do? I am not overly experienced with things like amps and other stuff but I am pretty confident I can tackle this (with a little guidance).

Side note... trying to wax, dry, clean the Z with a single incandescent bulb is just about retarted.

I will add that I also have an outlet on the ceiling for my garage door motor which I can utilize if the bulb fixture won't suffice but again I need some advice on what kind of wiring to use, where to find a plug, and how to wire the units together so they use one plug.
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Old 11-15-2011, 09:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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This isn't exactly what you are looking for, but it may give you an idea /shrug
How to Wire a Fluorescent Light Fixture | DoItYourself.com
Video: How to Install an Overhead Light Fixture • Ron Hazelton Online
Quote:
When replacing an incandescent bulb or an old light fixture with a new fluorescent light fixture, wiring it correctly is very essential.

Step 1 – Preparing the Circuit Cable

Determine the length of the circuit cable that will run from the location of the switch to the location of the light fixture. Cut the cable accordingly and remove at least 4 inches of the cable sheathing on both ends using a utility knife to reveal the colored wires. Run the cable from the switch to the fixture location.

Step 2 – Preparing the Fixture

Remove the cover plate on the fixture to reveal the ballast, the starter, the socket, and the wiring. Remove the knockout cover on top of the light fixture. Insert the unsheathed wires of the cable into the knockout hole and into the cable clamp. When all colored wires are inside the fixture, tighten the cable clamp. Mount the fixture onto the ceiling joists and tighten the screws.

Step 3 – Connecting the Cable Wires to the Fixture Wires

Locate the fixture wires colored black, white and green/bare. Sometimes, there will be no green or bare fixture wire. Strip one inch of the wire insulation on all insulated black and white wires from the fixture and cable. Connect the stripped white wires together, cover them with a wire nut and twist until no bare wire is visible. Do the same with the black wires. Near the knockout hole is a small ground screw. Hook the bare wire from the cable to this screw. If the fixture also has a ground wire, hook it to the screw as well. Recheck all connections for errors.

Step 4 – Install the Fluorescent Tubes

Make sure that the starter is in place and attach the cover plate back on the fixture. Install the fluorescent tubes on the fixture according to manufacturer’s instructions. If there is a diffuser provided, attach it as well after the tubes are in place.

Step 5 – Wiring the Circuit Cable to the Switch

Assuming that a switch is already available and has been wired to the electrical source, turn off the main service panel. Remove the light switch cover and remove the two screws on the switch. Pull the switch off the electrical box. There are two brass screws on the switch. A black wire from the main electric source is connected to one the screws. Strip one inch of the insulation on the black and white wires from the cable.

Hook the black wire on one of the brass screws and tighten it. Hook the bare wire to the green screw on the other side of the switch. Find the white wire coming from the main service panel and connect it to the white wire on the cable using a wire nut. Screw the switch back to the electric box and re-attach the switch cover.

Turn on the main service panel and the switch to test if the light fixture works.
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Old 11-15-2011, 10:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I did this not long ago. the easiest way is to buy a fixture that plugs into a receptacle. Mine came with chains that I hung from hooks. Quick and easy. Make sure you get the fixtures with instant-on ballasts. These will be ideal for a cold garage.
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Old 11-15-2011, 10:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cptspeed View Post
I did this not long ago. the easiest way is to buy a fixture that plugs into a receptacle. Mine came with chains that I hung from hooks. Quick and easy. Make sure you get the fixtures with instant-on ballasts. These will be ideal for a cold garage.
I'm thinking this will just end up being my way... simple and replacement is easy... kinda wanted it all off one switch but I'll deal.
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Old 11-15-2011, 11:43 PM   #5 (permalink)
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What your trying to do is actually rather simple. If you just wire all the fixtures in series (all the hot wires connected and all the neutral wires connected together). Once you have all the fixtures wired together in series simply wire the new fixtures into the hot and neutral of the existing incandescent light junction box. If your eliminating the incandescent light I'd just find a cover plate for that junction box.

As far as wire type etc. all I can say is stranded wire is much easier to work with than solid core wire. While I'm not sure what the amp draw is for these fixtures, I'd like to think 14 ga. or even 16 ga. wire should be sufficient.
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