:eek::eek::eek::eek:

Yes!

Thishttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1bab4566ec.jpg

I’m about to stretch out on the couch; watching Wichita on Grit channel :tup:

I read that book -- I bought my first copy back in the 1980's...

Ok........here's some pic's of the sub-frame. :tup:

First 2 pic's is with the old bushings still in.

Last 2 pic's is what it looks like under the car with the sub-frame out.

More pic's. :tup:

Used a 2" dia. deep hole saw to remove the inner part.

Then used a 2.5 hole saw to remove the inner shell.

Then used my Snap-On air chisel with the inner muffler bit to remove the outer shell.

More pic's. :tup:

Used a flapper wheel to remove any burrs and to smooth out the in side of the hole. Coat the inside of the hole with anti-seize. After removing the bushing from the freeze. Where it's been sitting for months. I installed both rear bushings with my ball joint press. When the wrench gets hard to tighten. Take a big ball peen and hammer on the side of the frame where the bushing is. The vibrations help loosen the bushing to frame contact.

I got both rear bushings replaced in about 4 hrs.

Does this see like a scam?

:icon17:

PeterPopoff.org :rofl2:

:tiphat:

what were you installing mr. rusty?? (bushings, for what?)

Replacing the rubber bushings that hold the rear sub-frame to the body with SPL aluminum bushings. There will be no movement in the rear at all. Everything will be locked down tight.

very nice sir..

Got 3" of fresh snow sitting on the ground.