Found a way to install the G3 without any cutting or removing the front bumper. ( Click to show/hide )
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12-26-2014, 01:42 PM | #34 (permalink) |
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Looooool Andrew. You got me.
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12-26-2014, 04:20 PM | #35 (permalink) |
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If you race get G3s...if not get silicone manifold tubes and K&N drop in filters or equivalent. Several hundred dollars cheaper and only 5 to 10whp difference. The big plus is you don't have to remove your front bumper to service the filters!
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12-26-2014, 05:44 PM | #39 (permalink) |
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He's right. I am not shelling out 500+ for 10 hp. That's stupid. That will just about cover a clutch and lightened flywheel. If you go FI later, you don't have to sell jack and loose your butt.
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12-27-2014, 02:17 PM | #40 (permalink) |
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DavidZ, no need to hide in the closet. You just got to know what you are chasing! If you are only going to do a CAI then I would go with long tubes, they will give the best bang for the buck but if you add exhaust and or test pipes then it's a game of diminishing returns. With full bolt on N/A you can expect 320whp + or - 5whp! Just go to the exhaust section and read all you want. Some have made 330 or so but they are in the minority. With full bolt ons and short tube or silicone tubes the average is about 315whp + or -. Those numbers are fine on paper but really most people won't be able to realize the difference just in driving and really even more so racing! There a whole lot that goes with getting everything out of the Z...mostly driver related then tires and suspension setup.
I did both these setups when I was N/A and it was an expensive learning curve...Spooler got it right, if you have any plans to go FI then save your money and spend what you can afford on supporting mods first.
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12-28-2014, 12:44 AM | #42 (permalink) |
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I did my Gen 3s first. About 60 miles into them, the remapping happened. Got a deeper growl and really felt a seat of the pants difference with no other mods. Plus, they look cool.
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12-28-2014, 01:32 AM | #43 (permalink) |
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12-28-2014, 02:10 AM | #44 (permalink) |
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I remember back in my Z32 days, the first style of CAI intakes were designed with one intake entry much like the Takeda. They many years later found the car fighting for air causing turbulence as the car tried to feed each side of the engine with air and moved to a dual setup for the intakes eliminating the fight for air.
So a part of me wonders how efficient the Takeda is because using the one intake vs the stillen. Stillen I'm sure remembered this from their Z32 knowledge and went with a dual filter design for this same reason I would think. If Nissan felt it was a good idea to have the car feed air from one filter they would have designed the stock air box this way but instead went the route of twin air filters. There must be reasoning for this so I would give the thumbs up to the stillen intake from a functional/efficiency point of view if this holds true about the Takeda. Last edited by ~37oZ~; 12-28-2014 at 02:13 AM. |
12-28-2014, 02:36 AM | #45 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
The Takedas are indeed a GOOD alternative for those who want an easier install. Though WE know that the hp differences are due in part to the different designs. Different strokes for different folks. |
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