Recommand Cold Air Intake

Zbrah · 10-27-2014, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mishuko

i already have the gen 3's and been using them for about 2 weeks now... it was just to emphasize how easy it really is to do these intakes. i like my shiny tubes and the space that opened up after took out the stock boxes. plus maf tubes + drop in's won't give the same sound as the gen 3's (probably the takeda's but i may be talking out the arse) that's just my personal taste though... each to their own

Agreed. It's really easy to do if you follow the guide already provided on here. I dont understand why people are so afraid of removing the bumper and enlarging the holes for the tubes. The plastic area where you have to make the space is somewhat of soft plastic. I didn't have a dremel so I resorted to my dinner knife, made two deep cuts one top and one bottom, eat cut about 1" in a seesawing motion, I just reached in barehand and pulled outward toward me and the plastic snapped off creating a bigger hole for the tube to fit thru, repeat the otherside. You can file off the jagged edge to make it look nicer but I didn't since no one but me knows it's there. I also wrapped the AC line with some rubber pieces found around the garage to keep from rubbing.

Edit: of course I don't recommend you guys use my ghetto tectnique, just showing ppl that it's not that bad and it's easy to do.

aszyd · 10-27-2014, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mishuko

same sound as the gen 3's

If you can hear your intake, you're doing it wrong.

Tadpole · 10-27-2014, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

I would never recommend a short ram hot air intake. Stock pulls cooler air than anything that pulls air from the engine compartment.

Um we are talking 2 to 4 Hp difference between the two intakes systems and honestly makes no difference. I would recommend then because I have them. They are easy to install and no bumper removal or coolant bottle relocated. The short rams even look better in the engine bay too in my opinion. Let's not also forget about low water crossings. To each his own but the short rams are a better choice considering install time and no drilling, cramming and pulling your tires and bumper off.

Chuck33079 · 10-27-2014, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tadpole

Um we are talking 2 to 4 Hp difference between the two intakes systems and honestly makes no difference. I would recommend then because I have them. They are easy to install and no bumper removal or coolant bottle relocated. The short rams even look better in the engine bay too in my opinion. Let's not also forget about low water crossings. To each his own but the short rams are a better choice considering install time and no drilling, cramming and pulling your tires and bumper off.

The catch is the obscenely high IATs you're going to see. On a dyno with the hood up, you're ok. In the real world, the ecu is going to pull so much timing due to IATs that you'll give all the gains back. Do some data logging with timing and IATs. It's an eye opener.

aszyd · 10-27-2014, 09:32 PM

It's not that bad...

I only have two inches of wheel gap when the car is in the air and I can access the two bolts that secure the bumper to the fender. No removing wheels for me.

With the Stillens, there really is no need to worry about hydro-locking your engine. If your car is in that much water you have other problems to worry about, like flooding the interior. This isn't a Jeep. Also the Stillens don't require the coolant tank relocation.

The only thing I can see being a non-starter (for some) with the Stillens is having to cut the radiator support, and it's really more like shaving it a little.

Also, if someone is concerned with install time, just have a shop do it.

Tadpole · 10-27-2014, 09:35 PM

Really? Provide data showing the major performance differences between the two on a stock setup. I would agree somewhat if you were running FI.

Chuck33079 · 10-27-2014, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tadpole

Really? Provide data showing the major performance differences between the two on a stock setup. I would agree somewhat if you were running FI.

I'm not going to do that. It's not all about the power, dude. You really think it's good for the car to be sucking in 150 degree air as opposed to near-ambient air? You can watch the car pull ttiming as the IAT rises. The data is here if you want to search for it. It's pretty obvious from a visual inspection, though. The stock airbox or the Stillen pull air from in front of the radiator. Short rams get the heated air that's passed through the radiator. Especially once the fans kick on. And given that the OP was asking about cold air intakes, it's pretty obvious that he doesn't want a hot air intake.

It actually matters less on a FI setup since you're compressing the air and then running it through the intercooler.

Tadpole · 10-27-2014, 10:00 PM

Well the only way to find out is to see at the drag strip with identical setups. I will suck up the 150 degree temperatures against the ambient one and will see which is better. It would be nominal at best even in this texas heat.

Chuck33079 · 10-27-2014, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tadpole

Well the only way to find out is to see at the drag strip with identical setups. I will suck up the 150 degree temperatures against the ambient one and will see which is better. It would be nominal at best even in this texas heat.

Actually, data logging the two would show you everything you need. You make less power when the ecu pulls timing and you can watch the timing get dialed back as IAT rises. Find someone with an Uprev cable or a scan gauge and you can see it plain as day.

SwissCheese · 10-27-2014, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mishuko

a little disclosure to my above post

1) i've never taken a bumper off my car before
2) i've never taken an intake off in my life
3) i've never really played inside an engine bay before
4) i've never used a dremel bit in my life (i have used a drill =O)
5) i've never took off rivets before (okay small lie the ones in the hatch)

i have 0 mechanical skills and never took shop class in my life and yet I could do it. I had a friend help out with unbolting some parts while i unbolted on another to help speed things up. you an do it yourself for sure with a wrench kit, elbow grease and a bit of patience.

Hopefully this post gives some confidence to those on the fence about installing it themselves.

Tadpole · 10-28-2014, 06:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

Actually, data logging the two would show you everything you need. You make less power when the ecu pulls timing and you can watch the timing get dialed back as IAT rises. Find someone with an Uprev cable or a scan gauge and you can see it plain as day.

Probably so showing the 2 to 4 Hp loss as I mentioned before. I understand what you are saying Chuck but the loss is minimal at best between the two. They will both show gains compared to stock. How much you want, how much you spend, and how much time you spend doing it is up to you and this was my point for someone that doesn't have the mechanical aptitude such as yourself installing one.

Zoren 370 · 10-28-2014, 07:11 AM

Since all of you getting serious and anal about it.
All your suggestions are highly technical and waste of time!

Nothing beats the location of this Stillen cold air intake! Maximum dyno power gains! No need to take the bumper out!

image.jpg

Zoren 370 · 10-28-2014, 07:15 AM

And if you want to be very aggressive go turbo charging with this type of intake!

image.jpg

PEACE you all!

Chuck33079 · 10-28-2014, 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tadpole

Probably so showing the 2 to 4 Hp loss as I mentioned before. I understand what you are saying Chuck but the loss is minimal at best between the two. They will both show gains compared to stock. How much you want, how much you spend, and how much time you spend doing it is up to you and this was my point for someone that doesn't have the mechanical aptitude such as yourself installing one.

It's more than 2-4 hp. There is no reason ever to buy a short ram. You would be far better off with maf tubes and drop ins. It doesn't matter if you believe it or not. That's the beauty of facts- they don't require one's belief. Short ram intakes are the scarlet letter of "I don't do research". Be happy with your purchase, that's fine. But don't go around recommending them like you're giving good advice. You're not.

jwick · 10-28-2014, 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tadpole

Probably so showing the 2 to 4 Hp loss as I mentioned before. I understand what you are saying Chuck but the loss is minimal at best between the two. They will both show gains compared to stock. How much you want, how much you spend, and how much time you spend doing it is up to you and this was my point for someone that doesn't have the mechanical aptitude such as yourself installing one.

Again dyno results.

Chuck...no mechanical aptitude. I guess that entire turbo build we did or the built track car in the backyard don't count.

10-27-2014, 09:32 PM	#20 (permalink)
aszyd Track Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: Florida Posts: 877 Drives: Magma Red 370z T+S Rep Power: 21	It's not that bad... I only have two inches of wheel gap when the car is in the air and I can access the two bolts that secure the bumper to the fender. No removing wheels for me. With the Stillens, there really is no need to worry about hydro-locking your engine. If your car is in that much water you have other problems to worry about, like flooding the interior. This isn't a Jeep. Also the Stillens don't require the coolant tank relocation. The only thing I can see being a non-starter (for some) with the Stillens is having to cut the radiator support, and it's really more like shaving it a little. Also, if someone is concerned with install time, just have a shop do it. __________________ Competition Clutch\|Fast Intentions\|Maxbore\|NST\|Setrab\|Stillen\|Tomei\|Uprev\| Z1 Avant Garde\|SPC\|Stance\|Whiteline Aerojacket\|Seibon\|Tanabe\|TRS\|TWM

10-27-2014, 09:35 PM	#21 (permalink)
Tadpole A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Lockhart, TX Posts: 1,082 Drives: 13 Nissan 370Z A7 Rep Power: 18	Really? Provide data showing the major performance differences between the two on a stock setup. I would agree somewhat if you were running FI. __________________ Takeda TR3009P Short Ram Intakes, Custom Dual Exhaust, X-Piped with 18" Resonators & TopSpeed Axle Backs. EVO-R Led Third Foglight,

10-27-2014, 10:00 PM	#23 (permalink)
Tadpole A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Lockhart, TX Posts: 1,082 Drives: 13 Nissan 370Z A7 Rep Power: 18	Well the only way to find out is to see at the drag strip with identical setups. I will suck up the 150 degree temperatures against the ambient one and will see which is better. It would be nominal at best even in this texas heat. __________________ Takeda TR3009P Short Ram Intakes, Custom Dual Exhaust, X-Piped with 18" Resonators & TopSpeed Axle Backs. EVO-R Led Third Foglight,

10-28-2014, 07:11 AM	#27 (permalink)
Zoren 370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: FL Posts: 11,018 Drives: 11 Nissan 370 M6 Rep Power: 1913653	Since all of you getting serious and anal about it. All your suggestions are highly technical and waste of time! Nothing beats the location of this Stillen cold air intake! Maximum dyno power gains! No need to take the bumper out! image.jpg ScottOmatic likes this.

10-28-2014, 07:15 AM	#28 (permalink)
Zoren 370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: FL Posts: 11,018 Drives: 11 Nissan 370 M6 Rep Power: 1913653	And if you want to be very aggressive go turbo charging with this type of intake! image.jpg PEACE you all! ScottOmatic and mishuko like this.

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