Z1 headers + Motordyne Manifold

jckilla

De5.0- you think the G3 intake is better than the Stillen Headers? Why swap my K&N typhoon intake setup for G3 ( minimal HP gain doing intake swap ) and keep the stock headers? Guess I'm missing something in your post response. I've got everything ready to go, you just don't think the headers will add that much HP compared to a better intake setup with stock headers?

N0SL3N

Stillen headers aren't shown to add much power, others are better, especially considering that the stock headers are pretty good. G3s and other long tube intakes are shown to increase power, especially up top, and are very effective at reducing heat soak.

Plus header installation is a PITA and intake installation, even long tube, is pretty easy.

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christian370z

Like others have said, you are best off keeping the stock headers. The G3 is a better intake than the typhoon, better gains without question.

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Chuck33079

If the K&N intake isn't a CAI, stock is better, much less a Stillen. Why do people still buy short ram intakes on these cars?

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jckilla

The K&N typhoon intakes were on the car when I bought it. The only mod done so far ( 2009 Touring Coupe with Sport Package and 7 speed AT ) - don't wanna just toss the intakes when I live in AZ & the heat is so bad that the G3 intakes aren't gonna make a HUGE difference. Going to keep the stock headers, go with the Z1 intake manifold, Stillen FHCs, & Stillen Dual Cat Back Exhaust, & Z1 (25) row oil cooler. The tuning company wants $750 for the UpRev tune, but won't let me keep the cable. If I want to keep the cable, it's $750 + $450 for the tune - I think I'll pass on that unless I'm running really lean. Isn't there a good tuner that I can purchase and keep in the car that will at least let me control the fans & the throttle? Hypertech tuner looks interesting. Thanks for everyone's advice, much appreciated.

theDreamer

The only option is Uprev.
The way they do it is:
-Tuner is able to tune the car and you pay a license fee & dyno time. License fee is 200 dollars and the tuner time is usually 75-100 per hour
-Tuner cable is what they are offering the 750 (which seems high) plus the 450
-Pro tuner this is if you really want to tinker and get access to locked features that are not fully tested and really no warranty if you play with them.

I believe you can buy the cable directly from Uprev but do not know the exact cost after you have a license. On the other end of things that 750 seems a bit high for a N/A tune. I paid $500 for mine years ago but know there was a small discount (50-100 dollars) the tuning shop was offering to get people in.

Uprev: www.uprev.com

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Chuck33079

That's backwards. If it's really hot, the Stillen intake will make more of a difference. And those tune prices are absolute rape. Is there no one else around? No one runs hypertech. It's Uprev or Ecutek.

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jckilla

I meant that just swapping intakes isn't going to make so much more of a noticeable difference that I should install a G3. Obviously CAIs are going to give more than typhoon, but it's not worth it for maybe 5 HP max. - spoke with the shop who is going to do the bolt ons, the guy I spoke to said the stock headers are fine, so the a Stillen headers are going back. Still think saving the $ for the tune is worth more than paying for a G3 intake setup and tossing the ones already installed. Appreciate the help, I think Ecutek might be the way to go, but no master tuners in AZ for Ecutek, just UpRev. Since the ECU will relearn I guess I'll just see how lean it runs and if it gets bad, cough up the funds for the tune. Thanks guys

7speed

Maybe just find a good used set of hfc, not sure why your stuck on stillen but there is also berk hfc. While your at it find a used exhaust. With that money saved get actual cAi or stock air boxes and kn filters and go from there.

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DEpointfive0

EXACTLY with all of the above!

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jckilla

So stock air boxes with K&N filters are better than what I've got already? Makes no sense. I already have the dual typhoon setup installed. So I should just swap it back to stock? The money isn't the issue, it's WASTING the money that's an issue. Stillen makes solid products & I dig their cat back setup with their HFCs. I just want some solid info, & between the shops and online I keep getting different opinions. Get a tune, don't get a tune, keep the stock headers & throw the ram air intakes away for a G3 CAI. I just want to do the right thing the first time. I'm COMPLETELY lost as to how stock boxes are better than what I've got as far as intake goes. I get the G3 is the best as far as CAI is concerned. If I want to swap that later, I can, it's the easiest mod to do. Right now I just wanna get the HFCs , exhaust, manifold, and oil cooler done. Keeping the stock headers like everyone says. I'll look into the berk products now, I've already had the Stillen parts on hold at the shop ( they had it in stock ) and I don't wanna be a **** and change everything tomorrow when I go to pay for everything. I've already switched from a Stillen oil cooler to the Z1 oil cooler as well as the Z1 manifold instead of the M370. I really appreciate everyone's advice, I guess I'll be on here all night going over everything again.

jckilla

I can go with berk HFCs ( new models, BT1407-metallic substrate ) and the berk BT1409 dual exhaust system for the same price as the Stillen setup. If you guys think that's a better choice, I'll go that way, the place I'm getting them from can't get too pissed off, they're still getting my $.

DEpointfive0

Ok, let's talk intakes.
The goal is the coldest most O2 dense air.

The K&Ns dyno high because the good is open. In the real world with the hood closed, the heat from the engine, which is immense, is trapped under the hood. This then heats the air going into the intakes. That is why a lot of us call them WAIs, warm air intakes.
The stock boxes have ducts that pull air from in front of the radiator, outside the engine bay, which keeps inlet air temps down compared to the K&N typhoon. We suggest adding K&N panel filters for less resistance and sometimes "post MAF tubes" to replace the accordion hoses leading to the engine to combat turbulent air. (The smoother the airflow, the faster the air FLOWS)
The G3 does everything, it moves the cone/filter out of the engine bay, in front of everything, and the airflow is as smooth as possible.



That is why K&N Typhoon<Stock<stock with upgraded filters+pos MAFs<G3

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DEpointfive0

Stillen's headers are worthless. Once you have ONE exhaust mod, the value of the headers is null and void.
The OEM headers are pretty damn good for what they are.
Their HFCs are good, they do the job just fine, my only issue with them is that I feel the inlet diameter isn't as big as it could be, restricting flow. The design using OEM gaskets is great though.
And their CBE, it is THE ONLY exhaust that weighs MORE than stock. But the weight is at the àss end of the car, which isn't bad IMO because the rear of the car is too light, worst part Of it is that it loses value to high hell because no one wants a heavier exhaust (hell, it's the exhaust I run, and I like it. I also have or have had almost every Stillen product)

As an FYI, mods do not add power in a traditional fashion.
The equation is NOT: CBE+HFC+Headers=gain (18+16+16=50 HP gain)
It's more like CBE+a couple+a couple=smaller gain (18+4+2= 24 HP gain)
Law of dimishing returns.

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jckilla

Thanks DE- I think I'll just go with berks products after checking out their website & get the G3 intake setup and throw the typhoon unit on craigslist. So now it's berk HFCs, berk CBE, Stillen G3' z1 intake manifold , z1 oil cooler, stock headers. I like that berk gives you all the gaskets needed for installation, Stillen doesn't - thanks for all the help. Last question, should I ask the installation shop to let me keep the stock exhaust for resale ( the guy told me they just scrap it, seems like a waste to me, someone out there could use it? ) I spoke with the other place in town and they will do the UpRev tune for $600 out the door. Looks like I've got everything lined up right now. All help is much appreciated.