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And by tune, everyone is referring to a dyno tune and adjustment? |
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Attachment 83659 Tuning - Nissan 370Z Forum
"Tune" meaning you would have to buy a software license like UpRev, EcuTek, etc, each cost a few hundred bucks. Then go to a dyno with a person who knows how to use that software. With the bolt-ons you have listed it's not 100% needed but it would help. If you put headers on you should get a tune for sure. |
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It doesn't have to be done the same day or anything, if you never get a tune it probably wouldn't hurt the car but I wouldn't recommend it. You wouldn't be getting the power you paid for or responsiveness that you get once they fine tune your air fuel ratio.
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Awesome thanks! Yeah I figured those were the reasons but I thought I would check. Definitely want to get as much out of it as I can. It's gonna be an expensive summer :) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Intake
Hey everyone!
I just got my first Z (2013 Nismo in Magna Red). I'm looking for the best air intake for the Z. Would like to hear your thoughts? What you chose and why? I'm thinking the Stillen 3. Thanks. |
Budget + Ease of installation for decent gains: Cobb (or similar) smooth tubes plus K&N (or other high flow) panel filter.
Money to burn + unconcerned with periodic removing of the front bumper to get a few more ponies up top: Stillen Gen 3. Un-heat shielded short rams, however, do not seem to perform as well, so those might be passed on unless you intend to construct airboxes for them. |
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my short rams intake 8 above ambient when moving at any speed above 25mph for the most part i think people should buy a CAI, but if one truly wants a SRI or is given one like i was, it doesnt mean its bad and wont perform, heat shielded or not |
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Moreover, it is indeed possible to pick up gains from a higher flowing cone filter that compensate for any losses due to increased ambient heat -- HOWEVER -- it is unclear whether that will be detected on a dyno with the hood up and a large fan blowing anyway. If you have some form of heat shielding, and the filters are pointing towards the OEM front bumper duct work, you are probably fine, but if they are wide open, with the hood down, you are drawing in air that is significantly hotter. While moving, they should approach ambient, so fair enough. But every time you sit, the temps are climbing. That's true even with shielding, but the effect is much greater without shielding. |
to be honest, there is no such thing as "best" when it comes to bolt ons only personal opinions and choice. what it boils down to is what you want to spend
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Ambient,spambient...lol.Bolt on any CAI,you will not feel any difference
when you are driving.If you are concerned about temp,put your thermometer away and drop in some K&N's in the stock airboxes. |
Keep your stock boxes. Intakes are not worth the money spent and the pain to clean them especially if they're the cold air types.
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Did you run at a dyno? I forgot. If you did, was your hood open? If so, you can stop saying your WAIs make power. Datalogging several days doesn't equate to much if there is no SOP, especially when trying to prove out that WAIs are beneficial over stock. There is no reason an intake sitting inside the engine bay makes power over stock boxes (let's say with K&N panel filters so we don't start arguing over flow) And when I say no reason, I mean NO REASON. The stock boxes pull in outside side through the radiator support. SRIs, ESPECIALLY non shielded ones EXCLUSIVELY pull warm to hot air that has either flowed through the 180 degree radiator and/or has been heated by the engine. |
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