[Official] "Which intake should I buy for my Z?" thread.

[Methodical4u]

Jordo, I assume you have seen this Stu’s 370Z Dyno Tune | Specialty-Z The numbers aren't to bad, however there is no HFC's or TP's ... which as we all know is the most restrictive part of the Z... if one of the 2 were installed, it would likely be quite close to the set-up with the G3's would it not?

[Jordo!]

Originally Posted by Methodical4u

Good, honest post. Here is the issue though. The Stillen's Injen's are king when it comes to gains because of the simple fact that they are getting the coldest air possible... period.

There is NO way to get air any colder than ambient for obvious reasons, so no matter what set up you have if you are getting outside air in... that's as good as it's going to get.

The only way I would know (and i'm no mechanic) would be to increase the amount of air going into the engine and of course we could do that with FI, but without it, I suppose maybe a filter that has a higher CFM, but then the question has to be asked... how much air can an NA engine actually take in? You can design the most elaborate system in the world, but that doesn't mean that all of the air is going to be able to be sucked in and used efficiently.

As far as bang for the buck, I agree the post maf tubes and better filters are going to be the best way to go. I don't know how much power the fang vents would add, but it would have to be at least a few hp I would imagine. Here the problem is yet again though, how can they be tested? You could put a fan in front of each fang and test it if you knew the mph of the air and how much it was cooling the engine, but then, how accurate would that be?

If the stock set up with fang vents would work... where would the power band be? Would the ram air be able to compete with the G3's at the top end with that air being forced and sucked in at the same time or would it fall off?

All questions that really cannot be answered in all reality. There are 2 ways to tell, a dyno and 1/4 trap speed... i'd be interested to see myself.

Both the OEM airboxes and the G3's take in air from the same place -- in front of the radiator. There's ducting to the OEM airbox, so it is just as much a "cold air intake".

Fang vents on the OEM airboxes wouldn't hurt, but it's unlikely to make THAT much of a difference.

The key difference on the G3's is most likley just that cone shaped filters tend to flow better than panel filters.

The SRI's usually lose the OEM ducting to the bumper (at least as far as I know), and are open on the top, so they may get more heat soaked. Fang vents for those might fix the problem.

Not sure if it would show on a dyno... it's an empirical question.

Originally Posted by NFSZ86

Just got mine G3s from another member for 265 had to wait a while though =)) just bc I was waiting on some used ones. But let me tell you everyone says they're the best and look good as well, can't wait to install them this weekend.

THAT is an awesome deal. Even if the gain over modified OEM was on the low side, that's only about $50 more bucks over the cost of tubes and panel filters. If I could find the G3's around that price, I'd happily experiment with the swap!

Originally Posted by Methodical4u

Jordo, I assume you have seen this Stu’s 370Z Dyno Tune | Specialty-Z The numbers aren't to bad, however there is no HFC's or TP's ... which as we all know is the most restrictive part of the Z... if one of the 2 were installed, it would likely be quite close to the set-up with the G3's would it not?

Those numbers look about right for those mods and a tune (compare with mine in the Proven Power Dyno Thread). Wish I could see the correction factor used tho'.

If you look at the difference between mine and the other car that dynoed last time (one of my recent posts) there were two places that showed pretty decent gains, everywhere else differences were fairly trivial, including the very peak values... that's why I have been skeptical of the value of G3's.

Still, the gains at points under the curve appear to be a bit greater than I thought, which is why I see them as being worth more $$$ than I had originally thought (but I still think ~$500 is too much!!! That's me -- I'm just being frugal ).

On the other hand, if you have the cash, don't mind pulling the bumper, love the sound, etc. etc. then by all means go for the G3's -- they do make more power than the modified airbox -- but they aint cheap.

I'd still like to see a definitive back to back comparison. If I can get hold of a set, I'll definitely do it to see what the gians are with everything else held constant (the compariosn between me and the other car wasn't a perfect one).

[Methodical4u]

Jordo... interestingly enough, there is a group buy on the R2C's and a G37 guy did a back to back with only HFC's as his other mod and got 14 whp and 7 wtq. I will post the link if you are interested. With some cold air ducting... that would probably bring some pretty nice gains. I've always had a feeling about that set-up.

[ScGRaceR]

Originally Posted by Pelican170

Neither, post MAF tubes and drop ins

[Jordo!]

Originally Posted by Methodical4u

Jordo... interestingly enough, there is a group buy on the R2C's and a G37 guy did a back to back with only HFC's as his other mod and got 14 whp and 7 wtq. I will post the link if you are interested. With some cold air ducting... that would probably bring some pretty nice gains. I've always had a feeling about that set-up.

Thanks, but I think I'll pass

I don't want to have to build the vents and ductwork, so if I experiment with another intake it will be the G3's.

Also, at the moment I'm shopping around for parts to upgrade my brakes

[Methodical4u]

I was actually just asking if you were curious to see the post and such for the numbers sake.

[Pelican170]

Originally Posted by Methodical4u

Good, honest post. Here is the issue though. The Stillen's Injen's are king when it comes to gains because of the simple fact that they are getting the coldest air possible... period.

There is NO way to get air any colder than ambient for obvious reasons, so no matter what set up you have if you are getting outside air in... that's as good as it's going to get.

The only way I would know (and i'm no mechanic) would be to increase the amount of air going into the engine and of course we could do that with FI, but without it, I suppose maybe a filter that has a higher CFM, but then the question has to be asked... how much air can an NA engine actually take in? You can design the most elaborate system in the world, but that doesn't mean that all of the air is going to be able to be sucked in and used efficiently.

As far as bang for the buck, I agree the post maf tubes and better filters are going to be the best way to go. I don't know how much power the fang vents would add, but it would have to be at least a few hp I would imagine. Here the problem is yet again though, how can they be tested? You could put a fan in front of each fang and test it if you knew the mph of the air and how much it was cooling the engine, but then, how accurate would that be?

If the stock set up with fang vents would work... where would the power band be? Would the ram air be able to compete with the G3's at the top end with that air being forced and sucked in at the same time or would it fall off?

All questions that really cannot be answered in all reality. There are 2 ways to tell, a dyno and 1/4 trap speed... i'd be interested to see myself.

Not necessarily true. Yes, they do pull "cold air" from the bumper but they also suffer from heat soak due to those big long metal pipes. From recent threads, dynos for the differences of the Post MAF Tubes and Drop Ins vs. G3's when you do other modifications (Exhaust...), makes the difference only a few HP. So if a few HP is worth $300 more to you, then go and get the G3's...

So, as mentioned earlier, if your looking to get every last HP, then G3's but bang for buck, MAF Tubes and Drop
Ins...

EDIT - Methodical, just realized you were in the last thread lol...

[Pelican170]

To OP - Here is a link to the other thread regarding the gains of Post MAF Tubes vs. G3's if your interested...

Post Maf Tubes & Drop-ins, worth it??

[Thorazine_IM]

Originally Posted by Israeli_Z

I've seen dyno sheets anywhere from 10-15whp

where did you see this?

[Thorazine_IM]

just picked up a 2013 370. stillen gen 3's should fit right?

[Pelican170]

Originally Posted by Israeli_Z

I've seen dyno sheets anywhere from 10-15whp

what are the gains after exhaust and/or other breather mods are on?

Ive seen dynos on here for the HPS tubes and drop in filters, after exhaust that net 8 - 10 hp. Thats good for after breather mods... To me, doesnt make sense to buy a stillen for similar gains and $100's more...

[edub370]

Originally Posted by Thorazine_IM

just picked up a 2013 370. stillen gen 3's should fit right?

yes

[ZForce]

Uhh...Israeli_Z's post was from 2010, I think he sold the Z.

[edub370]

Thread necro ftw

[ZForce]

Uhhh..."necro" translation please.