Originally Posted by Mandingo I remember reading about this a while back. Wouldn't the leaning-out effect be negated by a tune? The folks that posted before/after dynos showed gains from
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11-03-2013, 02:29 AM | #61 (permalink) | ||
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the stillen intakes make much less power(closer 9whp) with a tune after everything but if you are talking about your only mod, its gonna make all that power because its being leaned out mechanically Quote:
also i dont know where you are going with the radiator thing, but a cold air intake on a turbo might help the turbo produce 1psi more, if you're lucky if you were shooting for the highest HP number on the dyno, a CAI on a turbo car might get you there, but for the most part its a waste of money, you'll get more power from an intercooler swap than you would a CAI
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SOLD 370z New Car:classified DD:2011 Mini Cooper S stock Last edited by luigi90210; 11-03-2013 at 02:13 PM. |
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11-03-2013, 08:31 AM | #62 (permalink) |
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Lets talk science, Stillen Gen3 Intake
That was breaking apart molecules, not destroying atoms, completely different. I breath in a mixture of oxygen and breath out carbon dioxide, doesn't mean I'm a walking nuclear power plant, which I think synolimit was referring to.
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11-03-2013, 04:44 PM | #63 (permalink) | |
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I'm sorry but again it doesn't trick the ecu. The smoother flow and better filter increase the G/sec flow rate the MAF sees. As it increases, the MAF and ecu correct the AFR. There is no trick. Its just doing its job for better AFR and power. It's still not 100% optimal as its on the rich side (12.4-11.9 on my car) but its good enough to still stay safe and add power. This is why stillen uses OEM size MAF housing. There is also no taper. They just use a 3" filter to 2.5" OD pipe. So yes there's a taper but that doesn't matter as its only 3 inches long and it's no where near the MAF housing. The whole thing is the same size at 2.5" OD, same as OEM. You don't get good results with the AEM. Tricking the ecu is garbage and to tune out that trick is garbage. I've seen it personally make a car have less hp then stock because of it. On a NA car you are no where near maxing out the MAF volts with the OEM size. There's no need to go bigger pipe and be forced to rescale the MAF. In fact have a bigger pipe will yield no results as you were forced to rescale the larger pipe back down to OEM size, the ecu will think it has OEM size again. Pulling in say 2 volts passed the MAF in 2.75" piping will give you the same g/sec vs pulling in 4 volts in 2.5" piping. Its a NA car. There is no forced induction. The car can only suck in air that its able to. Once tuned with timing and mods you're done. I was getting to that keeping the compressor cooler with cooler air is always better. Bringing in 60 degree ambient temp vs 200 engine bay temps will always add HP! Doesn't matter if it has a intercooler or not. Starting at a lower charged temp vs a higher one will yield in a cold side intercooler with cooler denser temps. On my cars colder air didn't add psi as I was ecu and waste gate psi controlled, but using your example "you may get 1 more psi," I don't know about you but my turbos psi ran me 15-20 more HP!!! I'll take that all day long to put the filter in a cai vs a sri. But if you already have a IC you're not going to buy another one. And again it does make a difference no matter the IC! If its 60 degrees out, a compressor is 250 degrees, that mix goes through the IC, and out the other side pops out 65 degrees it makes a huge difference vs you put the filter in the engine bay where its 200 degrees, the compressor is again 250 degrees, that mixes and goes through the IC and out pops 90 degrees this time. 30 degree intake temps is huge in HP! I've seen 20-30 HP swings playing with this stuff on my WRX's while tuning them.
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11-03-2013, 05:35 PM | #64 (permalink) | |
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what exactly did you do to that WRX? i can tell you i gained an easy 50hp converting to a big FMIC on my turbo eclipse compared to the stock dinky SMIC, compared to the crap 10hp i got from a CAI on that car(i ended up selling it and moving to a SRI and i didnt lose power) hell my IATs also dropped big time stepping up to the bigger intercooler also i dont know where you are getting those numbers but im pretty sure it only plays out with stock intercoolers(and even then it doesnt seeing as MCM put a CAI on a R34 and only gained 1kw and that was a stupid setup with the filter out in front of the dyno fan) but stepping up to a bigger intercooler will do much more for your car over a CAI but hey what would you WRX guys know, you all tend to use small TMIC over a FMIC
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11-03-2013, 06:03 PM | #65 (permalink) | |
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I keep re-reading his post, and I can't find where he said a bigger intercooler didn't do anything. Of course a bigger intercooler will cool the air more, assuming there isn't too much pressure drop across the core and you have to spin the turbo faster (generating more heat) to maintain the same boost pressure.
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That's because going to a FMIC on that motor adds quite a bit of lag. I ran both. The TMIC heat soaks more when stopped, but it's a lot more responsive. You're comparing it to an inline four where going to a FMIC didn't add that much piping. On an EJ, it added eight feet of pipe..
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11-04-2013, 12:18 AM | #66 (permalink) | |
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Actually chuck I tuned and dyno'd from just the OEM tmic and my FMIC and saw no lag. In fact my FMIC lines never touched the tmic lines on HP or TQ during the runs. It gained quite a bit of everything and with the cooler charge temps timing could be increased. I will say this though, a turbos size does make a difference. In 09 the WRX got the same flow rate turbo as the 08+ STI. That's why WRX's now are faster then stis and can make the same power or more. They are lighter, better gear ratios, and run a OEM turbo about 38 lbs/min. Now the 08 and below WRX turbo (the little td04) is about 28 lbs/min. That little thing would probably see negative results using our large 12x26x3" FMIC. Not that it matters here but here's a before and after tmic vs FMIC only. Also as you can see, full boost by 3600 rpm with such a big core is awesome! Here's my best maxed out OEM motor, turbo, tranny, clutch etc. I believe it was 22-23psi with a taper down to 15-16psi. Still sub 4000 rpm and boost hitting mid 3000.
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13 370z- Last edited by synolimit; 11-04-2013 at 06:05 PM. |
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11-04-2013, 08:31 AM | #67 (permalink) |
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11-04-2013, 08:48 AM | #68 (permalink) | |
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that's the most ridiculous Z chart I've ever seen in my life
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11-04-2013, 08:54 AM | #69 (permalink) |
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The ones Syno posted? That's not from a Z. Z dyno charts peak around 7k or so. I haven't looked at a stock dyno recently, but I remember the peak being fairly near redline.
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11-04-2013, 09:01 AM | #71 (permalink) |
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It's from a stock turbo WRX. They peak well before redline.
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11-04-2013, 09:05 AM | #73 (permalink) |
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Yep. I'm still getting used to winding the tach out all the way, and I've put almost 20k on the Z.
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11-04-2013, 09:08 AM | #74 (permalink) | |
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I guess I should also further qualify my statement in saying: Like almost every factory turbo 4 banger over 2 liters in displacement. Since I know that there are 2.0 turbo cars that make 7 grand easy and I don't wanna get "called out" for not being 100% accurate. (Evo's, anything SR20DET equipped, the Genesis, etc) lol. |
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11-04-2013, 06:14 PM | #75 (permalink) | |
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