Nissan 370Z Forum
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Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)
-   Intake/Exhaust (http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaust/)
-   -   Garage Line, eBay, OBX header, custom CBE, dyno results. (http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaust/80587-garage-line-ebay-obx-header-custom-cbe-dyno-results.html)

luigi90210 10-17-2013 10:20 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit (Post 2531678)
I had one once at about 100 miles or so. I deleted it and it hasn't come back yet but I don't think I've gone another 100 yet.

The header looked great. Better than I could have made. Metal looks thick and strong, tigs are all good with penetration, but I don't know what makes welds fail. With all the CNT TS failing I reenforced the j tube.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psb717c06a.jpg
those look really nice, better quality than what i have seen local welders can do, i think what causes welds failing are them being poor in quality and with exhausts being so close to the ground, i think it might be water that causes it since there is a rapid change in temperature

either way, sick car, id love to hear it

synolimit 10-18-2013 12:07 AM
If someone has a nice camera, maybe.

IGoFast1589 10-18-2013 08:43 AM
If your car spends any substantial time outside, in humid weather or in the rain/snow I would remove that header wrap. It will trap moisture underneath the wrap and over time will rot out the exhaust. Especially if you get the exhaust super hot.

Chuck33079 10-18-2013 08:45 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by IGoFast1589 (Post 2532053)
If your car spends any substantial time outside, in humid weather or in the rain/snow I would remove that header wrap. It will trap moisture underneath the wrap and over time will rot out the exhaust. Especially if you get the exhaust super hot.
The spray takes care of that problem completely. Also, newer types of wrap don't have that problem. And if you get the exhaust super hot, wouldn't it evaporate the moisture you're concerned about?

IGoFast1589 10-18-2013 09:07 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 2532054)
The spray takes care of that problem completely. Also, newer types of wrap don't have that problem. And if you get the exhaust super hot, wouldn't it evaporate the moisture you're concerned about?
I've seen a few exhausts use the spray, wrap the exhaust properly and still have it happen. It traps the moisture underneath the wrap between the exhaust pipe and the wrap. Then the exhaust gets repeatedly heated up and cooled down which will corrode the metal away in time. Sure, yeah... But new moisture will always find it's way underneath the wrap even if it evaporates old moisture. Personally, if heat was my concern I would have the exhausted coated. It took about 15k-20k miles on the last exhaust I saw it happen to.

synolimit 10-18-2013 01:18 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by IGoFast1589 (Post 2532053)
If your car spends any substantial time outside, in humid weather or in the rain/snow I would remove that header wrap. It will trap moisture underneath the wrap and over time will rot out the exhaust. Especially if you get the exhaust super hot.
Well again I had a wrapped DP and header on my WRX for 50k and 3 years in NE ohio winters and the pipe was perfect after the wrap came off. You can't rot stainless steel. That's why it's called stainless. And that was on a 335hp 400tq WRX that saw a lot more heat than a NA can produce.

IGoFast1589 10-18-2013 02:43 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit (Post 2532444)
Well again I had a wrapped DP and header on my WRX for 50k and 3 years in NE ohio winters and the pipe was perfect after the wrap came off. You can't rot stainless steel. That's why it's called stainless. And that was on a 335hp 400tq WRX that saw a lot more heat than a NA can produce.
Relax, I am sharing my experience mate. And yes, it certainly can. There are different grades of stainless steel. 304 which is the lowest grade may very well stain or rust in environments of high salinity, little oxygen and low circulation. One car I saw it occur on was an 04 STi downpipe. Clearly won't happen to everyone, but it's not impossible. Most race cars I see don't use wrap anyway so I am not a huge believer in it, but that's just my $.02.

synolimit 10-18-2013 03:06 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by IGoFast1589 (Post 2532593)
Relax, I am sharing my experience mate. And yes, it certainly can. There are different grades of stainless steel. 304 which is the lowest grade may very well stain or rust in environments of high salinity, little oxygen and low circulation. One car I saw it occur on was an 04 STi downpipe. Clearly won't happen to everyone, but it's not impossible. Most race cars I see don't use wrap anyway so I am not a huge believer in it, but that's just my $.02.
I'm fine and I'm sharing too saying you're incorrect. 304 is 100% NOT the lowest grade! It's one of the best right behind 316Ti used for turbo headers and jet engines because 1600*+ can crack 304. Pretty sure you're thinking of 409ss which is right above mild steel. 304 can surface rust but that's because things stick to it and rust. It'd take 1000 years to break all the way through. And here's what I mean, 304ss exhaust with surface rust from who knows what sticking to it...

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...t/IMG_1708.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...t/IMG_0945.jpg

A light polish gets everything off the steel and brings the shine back out. Again it'd take 1000 years and 1000 polishes to get through 16 gauge 304.

And race cars don't drive on the street or use a 370z. The under hood temps of these cars suck along with their oil cooling system. Running an unwrapped header in THIS car is just plan retarded!

IGoFast1589 10-18-2013 03:39 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit (Post 2532656)
I'm fine and I'm sharing too saying you're incorrect. 304 is 100% NOT the lowest grade! Isn't one of the best right behind 316Ti used for turbo headers and jet engines because 1600*+ can crack 304. Pretty sure you're thinking of 409ss which is right above mild steel. 304 can surface rust but that's because things stick to it and rust. It'd take 1000 years to break all the way through. And here's what I mean, 304ss exhaust with surface rust from who knows what sticking to it...

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...t/IMG_1708.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...t/IMG_0945.jpg

A light polish gets everything off the steel and brings the shine back out. Again it'd take 1000 years and 1000 polishes to get through 16 gauge 304.

And race cars don't drive on the street or use a 370z. The under hood temps of these cars suck along with their oil cooling system. Running an unwrapped header in THIS car is just plan retarded!
The exhaust that rotted was 304 dude. It wasn't a huge hole, but it was big enough to leak. It was an Invidia catless bellmouth downpipe made from 304 stainless steel. 304 definitely doesn't have a super high chromium percentage does it? The exhaust gas temps at the downpipe of a modified STi get pretty damn hot. With constant heating and cooling, tough weather and 2 years it happened. Not making it up... May have a picture somewhere.

synolimit 10-18-2013 06:04 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by IGoFast1589 (Post 2532701)
The exhaust that rotted was 304 dude. It wasn't a huge hole, but it was big enough to leak. It was an Invidia catless bellmouth downpipe made from 304 stainless steel. 304 definitely doesn't have a super high chromium percentage does it? The exhaust gas temps at the downpipe of a modified STi get pretty damn hot. With constant heating and cooling, tough weather and 2 years it happened. Not making it up... May have a picture somewhere.
That was my DP. Again 50k, wrapped since day one, 3 ohio winters, mint when it came off. 23psi tapering down to 16psi also, so some serious heat was there.

Staples 10-18-2013 06:53 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 2532054)
The spray takes care of that problem completely. Also, newer types of wrap don't have that problem. And if you get the exhaust super hot, wouldn't it evaporate the moisture you're concerned about?
Correct... I've ran header / exhaust wrap in the past without a single issue. It has helped tremendously with rasp on my older exhaust set up. If you wrap and tie strap it properly, you're not going to have problems with corrosion for year round driving.

If I had one complaint at all, it would be that the newer wraps that don't require the spray coating has a tendency to fray on the ends. This can be a b*tch when installing it and getting a tight wrap around the exhaust. I did have to check ever so often under the car to make sure the ends weren't splitting.

synolimit 10-30-2013 11:09 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Staples (Post 2532924)
Correct... I've ran header / exhaust wrap in the past without a single issue. It has helped tremendously with rasp on my older exhaust set up. If you wrap and tie strap it properly, you're not going to have problems with corrosion for year round driving.

If I had one complaint at all, it would be that the newer wraps that don't require the spray coating has a tendency to fray on the ends. This can be a b*tch when installing it and getting a tight wrap around the exhaust. I did have to check ever so often under the car to make sure the ends weren't splitting.
A hose clamp or SS wire wrapped or pinching the ends won't let it fray. My first pic shows the SS worm clamp at the ends holding the wrap down.

batboyvaj 01-23-2014 12:59 AM
Which version of the "obx" do you have? the 2nd one looks like it has a better collector design.

OBX Stainless Header 2009+ Nissan 370Z VQ37VHR Long Tube

OBX SS304 1.7" ID Equal Length Header Exhaust Nissan 370Z VQ37VHR

synolimit 01-23-2014 06:31 AM
1st.

Not to me it doesn't. You need to separate the cylinders longer than that. That's why LTH make more power than TP. That 2nd one just looks like a header with a test pipe.


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