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JWT Pop Chargers + Post MAF Tubes and Bumper Cut Outs

Does anyone have any results to share? I was doing some thinking and it's clear that the Stillen G3 intakes are the best intake setup for the 370Z, but if

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Old 10-09-2013, 03:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default JWT Pop Chargers + Post MAF Tubes and Bumper Cut Outs

Does anyone have any results to share? I was doing some thinking and it's clear that the Stillen G3 intakes are the best intake setup for the 370Z, but if you were to do the JWT pop chargers, a set of post MAF tubes and bumper cut outs I wonder if you would get the same if not better gains and get a badass sound from it also. The pop chargers come with heat shielding to line the sides and then with bumper cut outs feeding direct air to them with the piping ultimately being shorter and smooth I would be curious to see the result.





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Old 10-09-2013, 04:56 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I might be wrong, but I doubt you'll find anyone here supporting the idea that short ram intakes will do same if not more power than long ram ones...
On the sound side tho, yes you are right.
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Old 10-10-2013, 09:41 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I might be wrong, but I doubt you'll find anyone here supporting the idea that short ram intakes will do same if not more power than long ram ones...
On the sound side tho, yes you are right.
Maybe, not so sure though... If you have simple, short ram air filters followed by smooth silicone post MAF tubes that go directly to the throttle bodies with cut outs in the bumper and some ducting to direct air flow directly to the filters - I can see that being a good setup.

I'm going to take a stab though and say that those bends from the Stillen G3 setup actually help by increasing the velocity of air to the throttle bodies so that when the throttle plates open up it just draws in a ton of air to the cylinders.

Just curious to see if anyone has tried an intake setup that's similar...
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Old 10-10-2013, 09:45 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Maybe, not so sure though... If you have simple, short ram air filters followed by smooth silicone post MAF tubes that go directly to the throttle bodies with cut outs in the bumper and some ducting to direct air flow directly to the filters - I can see that being a good setup.
When it's moving at high speeds. At low speeds, you'll be pulling underhood air and the engine compartment on these gets HOT.
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Old 10-10-2013, 11:29 AM   #5 (permalink)
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When it's moving at high speeds. At low speeds, you'll be pulling underhood air and the engine compartment on these gets HOT.
If you have those bumper cut outs and 3" hoses running directly into the engine compartment where the filters are which will also be farily sectioned off from the rest of the engine by heat shielding, in theory, I imagine it could work pretty well. I'm not an engineer, but I bet someone here has tried it and has some results.

The carbon fiber CSL airbox for the E46 M3 sounds like heaven and it's also effective. I imagine with badass twin intakes for the naturally aspirated V6 in the 370Z would sound glorious as well.

If you ever look at the intake setups on GrandAm or ALMS cars they usually have very unique sectioned off boxes that have some form of drawing air directly from outside the car.
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Old 10-10-2013, 11:31 AM   #6 (permalink)
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By the time you're done reinventing the wheel, you might as well have gone with something proven like the Injen/Stillen?etc.
fuct likes this.
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Old 10-10-2013, 11:36 AM   #7 (permalink)
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By the time you're done reinventing the wheel, you might as well have gone with something proven like the Injen/Stillen?etc.
True and probably right. Just thinking that that maybe it's possible to create something that's more effective, for less money and also get the benefit of a wicked induction noise from the front end.
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Old 10-10-2013, 11:40 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I don't know about more effective. I think at the end of the day, Intake A is going to be 2-3whp better or worse than Intake B, and that's within the range of dyno variance. There's only so much gains to be had on that front. Cost comes down to how much you can DIY, so there's no real way to judge that.
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Old 10-10-2013, 05:40 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by IGoFast1589 View Post
Does anyone have any results to share? I was doing some thinking and it's clear that the Stillen G3 intakes are the best intake setup for the 370Z, but if you were to do the JWT pop chargers, a set of post MAF tubes and bumper cut outs I wonder if you would get the same if not better gains and get a badass sound from it also. The pop chargers come with heat shielding to line the sides and then with bumper cut outs feeding direct air to them with the piping ultimately being shorter and smooth I would be curious to see the result.





Just get some plastic gutter downspouts, spray paint them black and mount them under the crash bar
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Old 10-10-2013, 07:15 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Running a setup like this recked havoc on my subi for DD. I wouldn't do it. That better direct flow you speak of will kill the MAF readings. Think about it...at 10,20,30,60 mph etc in closed loop throttle the MAF thinks it will see x.xx volts. But a gust of wind blows into the system and spikes the volts and your foot isn't pressing on the throttle hard enough, the system thinks you are pushing harder and adds fuel because of the increased air the MAF saw. The car drives like **** and sputters and hiccups. You can test it by running the car in the driveway and blowing air into the setup from outside the bumper with a air compressor. Needless to say I had to block off the inlet in the bumper.

I wouldn't go SRI unless you vent the hood and bumper inlets need to be off to the sides of the filters unless you have a CAI setup like me or stillen.
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Old 10-10-2013, 11:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I had the pop chargers on my 350z and then on my first 370z. For my current 370z, i got a really good deal on AEM intakes and love it. The popchargers absolutely heat soak in the 370z and plumbing some sort of cold air to the filter should already be part of that intake system. SRI's are not a good idea for the 370z
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Old 10-11-2013, 09:40 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
Running a setup like this recked havoc on my subi for DD. I wouldn't do it. That better direct flow you speak of will kill the MAF readings. Think about it...at 10,20,30,60 mph etc in closed loop throttle the MAF thinks it will see x.xx volts. But a gust of wind blows into the system and spikes the volts and your foot isn't pressing on the throttle hard enough, the system thinks you are pushing harder and adds fuel because of the increased air the MAF saw. The car drives like **** and sputters and hiccups. You can test it by running the car in the driveway and blowing air into the setup from outside the bumper with a air compressor. Needless to say I had to block off the inlet in the bumper.

I wouldn't go SRI unless you vent the hood and bumper inlets need to be off to the sides of the filters unless you have a CAI setup like me or stillen.
Ah yes... For sure. I can see where you're going with that. Did you have an APS intake or something of the sort for a WRX or STi and run a hose directly to it? I had a few Subarus as well.

Once the ECU went into closed loop fueling though it should be alright though I imagine, no? Because then it will be fueling based on the 02 sensor readings and not from the MAF. I wonder if having the car calibrated by a tuner could rectify any of the issues you had and optimize the setup. I could be wrong, but I thought the ECU switches from open to closed loop after a certain amount of the time, the 02 sensors reach a certain temperature and coolant is up to temperature. I wish I was more knowledgeable about tuning and electrical components.
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Old 10-11-2013, 11:18 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Thankfully we got away from tuning a subaru. Trying to figure that out was a constant headache. The Z still has a lot of factors but somehow makes more sense then a subaru.
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Old 10-11-2013, 11:24 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by IGoFast1589 View Post
Ah yes... For sure. I can see where you're going with that. Did you have an APS intake or something of the sort for a WRX or STi and run a hose directly to it? I had a few Subarus as well.

Once the ECU went into closed loop fueling though it should be alright though I imagine, no? Because then it will be fueling based on the 02 sensor readings and not from the MAF. I wonder if having the car calibrated by a tuner could rectify any of the issues you had and optimize the setup. I could be wrong, but I thought the ECU switches from open to closed loop after a certain amount of the time, the 02 sensors reach a certain temperature and coolant is up to temperature. I wish I was more knowledgeable about tuning and electrical components.
I made everything. The filter was right behind the fake more front inlet in the 11+ bumper. I cutout the fake vent to give it a real vent. It was 3" from the filter to the turbo inlet with pipe I made.

You mean open loop? Open was fine, 335hp 400tq to the ground on stock everything but bolt ons. Closed loop ran like **** with every gust of wind. The subi tables all work off MAF and load. The O2's are useless because neither are wide band.
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Old 10-11-2013, 02:21 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
Running a setup like this recked havoc on my subi for DD. I wouldn't do it. That better direct flow you speak of will kill the MAF readings. Think about it...at 10,20,30,60 mph etc in closed loop throttle the MAF thinks it will see x.xx volts. But a gust of wind blows into the system and spikes the volts and your foot isn't pressing on the throttle hard enough, the system thinks you are pushing harder and adds fuel because of the increased air the MAF saw. The car drives like **** and sputters and hiccups. You can test it by running the car in the driveway and blowing air into the setup from outside the bumper with a air compressor. Needless to say I had to block off the inlet in the bumper.

I wouldn't go SRI unless you vent the hood and bumper inlets need to be off to the sides of the filters unless you have a CAI setup like me or stillen.
Great points, though I never owned a Subi I have no clue what all that techno speak means, beyond that it makes sense.

I must be lucky or driving to slow ... though 125-130 is pretty fast at the end of the main straight at Summit Point ... but have had no issues with the car behaving any differently. The only thing I don't like is the incredible amount of dust that now gets sucked up into the engine bay, which on the one side is good because I know colder air is getting in there, but sucks to keep clean.

Anyway, from a performance standpoint I have noticed none of the things you mention the Subi did.
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