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My butt dyno felt these intakes were putting down more power, nice to see that the dyno agrees with my butt. You will really notice these intakes open up past
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My butt dyno felt these intakes were putting down more power, nice to see that the dyno agrees with my butt.
![]() You will really notice these intakes open up past 45mph when air starts to flow well in the engine bay. I agree some nice heat shields would help even more, ducts will work too but I am not cutting holes in my Z. I also think once I get the Berks High Flow cats the car will really start putting down some more noticeable gains. Results should get a lot better when the car can breath in and get the exhaust to flow out better.
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I finally got a copy of the dyno sheet today. Sorry for the delay, The project manager is out till the 30th so i'm not sure if when the heatshields will be ready for the Z. I'm sure it will be after SEMA
hopefully you guys can read it since the color they used were so light ![]() |
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A few things, I just noticed they did the dyno run in 3rd gear.
Other thoughts I have been going over, suggestions for better intakes: ~Longer pipes to get closer to the pre-made holes ~Solid box ~Filter design, I just noticed the top of the filter is sealed only allowing air from around them. With a solid box this might be fine, but maybe a different filter allowing direct air from the pre-made holes to come into. Just putting up some ideas if Takeda wants some input, also any updates from Takeda on what they are working on. Changes, modifications, new design?
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I think they at least need to add heatshields. I installed a scangauge last Friday and notice that I'm running IAT of about 25 degrees over ambient with the Takedas. Note that this is when going over 45 mph. In traffic IAT are at over 100. (at an
ambient temp of about 50). So I'll try the Modshack fang intake mod and if that doesn't work I'll replace the Takedas with Stillen G3s. (I feel I should have done this in the first place, but that's what I get for being cheap) |
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The washer fluid is not a huge deal to me, as if I go Injen I will probably just remove the washer fluid anyways.
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Might be true, but does hood close create artificial results that are not real?
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the relatively high IATs indeed negatively affect these values (running rich and retard timing) |
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Sounds good, thanks for looking into this. My dyno results showed my AF was lower than stock which the guy at the shop I was getting my dyno done said resulted in the lower HP.
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Yes, I was in the 10-11s AF, where stock was closer to 11-12.
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