Air filter - Fram CA10544 extra guard

chrischhorn

Lol, a bit of COD made the time fly by lol.

__________________

R.I.P. 8/01/13 1SlowZ
One day I'll have another....

zefaulter

Awesome! Thanks man. Kinda feel bad this turned into another k&n thread lol

6MT

Just how do you figure that Fram filters are "restrictive"? A little documentation to back up your claim please......

__________________
Andrew

2009 370Z Sport/Touring 6MT sold
2013 Honda Civic Si coupe D/D

synolimit

That wasn't a claim, hence the question mark, he was asking

__________________
13 370z-

FL 4Motion

K&N drop ins plus PMTs here and very happy with them, 80-90% performance of the best CAI's (like the G3) at 30% the cost.

For those really worried about fowling the maf's with the oil, it's over oiling when recharging them that can do it, so just sell or toss the filteres every 20-30K miles and buy new, that's what I do, or more accurately, plan to do and they're not expensive so problem solved.

zefaulter

6MT, that is a question the name doesn't help: extra guard (not something like extra flow)

6MT

The Fram "Extra Guard" filters are still dry paper. No more or less restrictive than any other paper filter on the market. How the op got "restrictive" from that is beyond me. "Extra Guard" is a marketing term used to represent more protection to consumers. Flow rates have nothing to do with it!

__________________
Andrew

2009 370Z Sport/Touring 6MT sold
2013 Honda Civic Si coupe D/D

zefaulter

That's my concern exactly

gsxr750

Stick with a quality oem paper filter, the minor HP gains using oil type air filters or aftermarket CAI tubes are not really worth pros vs cons.

Cons = oil damage to MAS sensors, high initial cost and replacement cost of oil type air filters, possible dirt transferred during cleaning process, less filtering ability than paper.

Pros = minor HP gains, lifetime use ( if you want to clean and re use a air filter for the life of your vehicle)

Sh0velMan

1) Stick with a quality oem paper filter, the minor HP gains using oil type air filters or aftermarket CAI tubes are not really worth pros vs cons.

This is pretty much wrong. You can get sizable horsepower gains with drop ins, to say nothing of the cold air intakes available on the market.

2) Cons = oil damage to MAS sensors, high initial cost and replacement cost of oil type air filters, possible dirt transferred during cleaning process, less filtering ability than paper.

These are blown way, way out of proportion. If you were hoping your engine would last 500,000 miles, sorry to break it to you, many other parts of the engine will break down before particulate contamination becomes an issue.

3) Pros = minor HP gains, lifetime use ( if you want to clean and re use a air filter for the life of your vehicle)

Again, are you planning on having the engine last half a million miles? The filter needs to be cleaned very 40-60K miles, if the OP plans on keeping the car more than 120K miles, then yeah you might have to clean it more than once.


I'm not sure why you are even participating in this forum if your view on performance parts for the platform is filled with such disdain that you will suggest that a well established power adder like a cold air intake is inferior to an OEM paper air filter.

Please return to your motorcycles where gains can't be had with such things, because they're already running @ 9.9/10ths from the factory and changing intake components adversely affects the power output. Those viewpoints and observations don't really apply to a comparatively reserved engine like the VQ.

/rant

__________________
Buy My Car! | Build Thread

6MT

Spot on...spot on!

__________________
Andrew

2009 370Z Sport/Touring 6MT sold
2013 Honda Civic Si coupe D/D

Sh0velMan

Also, this website may be more your speed.

__________________
Buy My Car! | Build Thread

zefaulter

I'm planning on keeping the car for as long as I like it lol... Then again, like many others I plan on boosting later on which means I won't need the filters... Good thing about k&n is that they can be easily sold back
More reps to you sh0velMan

Sh0velMan

I totally understand.

I also just wanna say, his viewpoints aren't wrong for sport bikes.

If you want a sportbike motor to make its factory horsepower for longer than 20-30k miles, you have to take extra care to keep particulate matter out of the combustion chambers and sludge out of the crankcase. The tolerances are an order of magnitude tighter and the surface area is a LOT smaller. So a 0.01 MM scratch in a cylinder wall is a much greater percentage of your total cylinder wall area than it is on a 3.7L 6.

Scratches are bad on EVERY engine, but it takes a **** ton more of those scratches before you can even measure a difference in sealing performance with laboratory gear, much less a measurable difference on a dyno or in fuel economy, when compared to that of a 0.75-1.3L motorcycle engine.

Also, "so called" cold air intakes for sport-bikes (or any motorcycle with a tuned airbox) add comparatively microscopic gains or even power LOSS, sticking with the stock air box with a good paper filter is almost always the smarter route.

So he's right...and he's wrong.

__________________
Buy My Car! | Build Thread

zefaulter

Just found this



K&N Air Filter Review - Debunking the Myths (and why OEM is better)