DIY cai?

Jordo! · 08-02-2013, 05:07 AM

You need to figure out a way to keep the tubes from moving around from engine vibrations.

The MAF sensors are incredibly sensitive to airflow tumble effects, resulting in misreads and power loss.

synolimit · 08-03-2013, 12:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordo!

You need to figure out a way to keep the tubes from moving around from engine vibrations.

The MAF sensors are incredibly sensitive to airflow tumble effects, resulting in misreads and power loss.

The stock air box is mounted on rubber and can move and the OEM accordion post tubes have a great deal of movement. The stillen also uses no bracket so I fail to see the issue. "If" and its a big one, if it causes issues the Z1 post tubes are stiff as **** and will make it just as hard and no different than the Stillen's.

Jordo! · 08-03-2013, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

The stock air box is mounted on rubber and can move and the OEM accordion post tubes have a great deal of movement. The stillen also uses no bracket so I fail to see the issue. "If" and its a big one, if it causes issues the Z1 post tubes are stiff as **** and will make it just as hard and no different than the Stillen's.

I did the exact same thing and found that the vibrations make a huge difference on the dyno.

The airboxes don't move around nearly as much as you think relative to having nothing clamping the intakes down.

Take it to the dyno and see for yourself... I've got no problem with being proven wrong...

On a related note: I have the MAF bases cut from the airbox (i.e., plastic tube with base) and would happily sell them to you if you don't want to cut your airbox up. PM me if you want them. I can provide pics if you want too.

synolimit · 08-03-2013, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordo!

I did the exact same thing and found that the vibrations make a huge difference on the dyno.

The airboxes don't move around nearly as much as you think relative to having nothing clamping the intakes down.

Take it to the dyno and see for yourself... I've got no problem with being proven wrong...

On a related note: I have the MAF bases cut from the airbox (i.e., plastic tube with base) and would happily sell them to you if you don't want to cut your airbox up. PM me if you want them. I can provide pics if you want too.

Well I agree with them not moving much because they don't move under wot. When the motor rocks back under load it stays there. The MAF should see no change. Now during a shift or let off, yes, there should be huge swing in the pipe because the motor relaxed. Unless you're seeing voltage changes on the street and messing things up, ill never know. I don't do dyno's. they are pointless to me and I hate them. I use road dyno software that can calculate the weight of the car, aero dynamics, wheel diameter size, tire size, looks at wot, speed, rpm, etc etc and can tell you a real, true hp and tq since it can calculate the time it took you to go from say 2000 rpm to 7500 rpm. Its actually accurate because you have real wind pushing against you, ambient temps and not 300 degree dyno rooms, and real world roads. Only thing you must do is get all the info right, wheels, weight, etc. also find a flat road and dyno in both directions and average runs for a correct hp and tq. Normally these run like or lower than a mustang but is proven with 1/4 times and trap speeds.

Thanks for the heads up though. We'll watch the volts.

Jordo! · 08-05-2013, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Well I agree with them not moving much because they don't move under wot. When the motor rocks back under load it stays there. The MAF should see no change. Now during a shift or let off, yes, there should be huge swing in the pipe because the motor relaxed. Unless you're seeing voltage changes on the street and messing things up, ill never know. I don't do dyno's. they are pointless to me and I hate them. I use road dyno software that can calculate the weight of the car, aero dynamics, wheel diameter size, tire size, looks at wot, speed, rpm, etc etc and can tell you a real, true hp and tq since it can calculate the time it took you to go from say 2000 rpm to 7500 rpm. Its actually accurate because you have real wind pushing against you, ambient temps and not 300 degree dyno rooms, and real world roads. Only thing you must do is get all the info right, wheels, weight, etc. also find a flat road and dyno in both directions and average runs for a correct hp and tq. Normally these run like or lower than a mustang but is proven with 1/4 times and trap speeds.

Thanks for the heads up though. We'll watch the volts.

Dynos are not pointless. They provide a method for quanitifying engine output meaningfully. Poor interpretations of their readings abound, but they are far from pointless.

So long as they are clamped down, it should be fine.

Any interest in buying my MAF tubes so as not to have to hack up your airboxes? I can provide pictures later if you might be interested. They are exactly what you will have to create on your own...

EDIT: I have better pictures somewhere on my computer, but here's an example of one of them (don't think I have the filters anymore)

http://www.the370z.com/attachments/i...take-proj4.jpg

Its the exact same pieces you will have to cut from your own airboxes. These are already cut and sanded. Make me an offer and they're yours.

synolimit · 08-05-2013, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordo!

Dynos are not pointless. They provide a method for quanitifying engine output meaningfully. Poor interpretations of their readings abound, but they are far from pointless.

So long as they are clamped down, it should be fine.

Any interest in buying my MAF tubes so as not to have to hack up your airboxes? I can provide pictures later if you might be interested. They are exactly what you will have to create on your own...

EDIT: I have better pictures somewhere on my computer, but here's an example of one of them (don't think I have the filters anymore)

http://www.the370z.com/attachments/i...take-proj4.jpg

Its the exact same pieces you will have to cut from your own airboxes. These are already cut and sanded. Make me an offer and they're yours.

I was kind of hoping to buy some but only to have extras incase maybe I could put kits together for other people. That way they'd be cheaper since I'd buy so many couplings and length of pipe. But I'm sure I'd have to pay for a vender license here and that probably wouldn't be worth it because that and I've seen one guy ask $200 for his in boxes. At that price I'd never get my hands on enough.

08-02-2013, 05:07 AM	#1 (permalink)
Jordo! A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Location: nirvana Posts: 6,394 Drives: 2023 NATM Rep Power: 418	You need to figure out a way to keep the tubes from moving around from engine vibrations. The MAF sensors are incredibly sensitive to airflow tumble effects, resulting in misreads and power loss. __________________ Enjoy it. Destroy it.