K&N Typhoon or Takeda Short Version
 

I'm sure this has been asked before but I have done a search and nothing came up.
I have narrowed it down to this two, apart from the cost what are the difference between to two?

Regards

I can't speak to performance, but the Typhoon can be had on Amazon for $293. Not a bad deal.

I do have the typhoon don't have the numbers to speak off but k&n says about 14hp but of course it's a marketing thing. But as far as I'm concerned it works well with my z and looks very nice and aggressive in the engine bay with the twin filters showing.
Most people over here use/like the gen 3. Me I like the filters showing!:tup:

that's very good deal!

I say go for it you'll never go wrong with k&n!

What's installation like?

There are no real major differences in the two. They are both SRI's. The only difference really would be K&N uses an Oiled filter, where as the Takeda I believe uses a Dry filter.


For the price of either, an SRI for this motor is not wise for HP gains...


If you're going for PURE LOOKS, then I would also throw in the R2C intakes. I've seen them and they look really cool. Plus you have options on the pipe coating/color as well. :tup:

I've heard good things from the R2C intakes as well and they use dry filters. Check it out. Just another option :tup:

Installation:

1. Remove Negative (-) Battery Terminal. Remove Strut Bar, Unplug MAF Sensors

2. Remove OEM Intake Boxes/Post MAF Tubes.

3. Remove MAF Sensors from OEM Post MAF tubes and insert into new intake pipes.

4. Piece together (loosely) new intakes and put in engine bay. Line them up. Tighten everything down once you're satisfied.

5. Follow either the K&N/Takeda installation instructions for any air shields that need to be installed.

6. Reinstall OEM Strut bar, plug in MAF sensors, reinstall Neg. battery terminal.


Thats it. Total time: <1 hour

The long tubes is definitely the way for hp gains but I'm more for the looks in th engine bay.
Install for the k&n the most is 45mins to an hour. Btw wrapped the tubes with thermal insulators like wrap it exhaust insulators. The tubes thus get hot inside the engine bay and made a huge difference once wrapped.
I wish I can post pictures.

Thank you Chris for the detailed install guide.:tup:

There is currently a Typhoon on Ebay for $200 used. Seller says 6000 mi on it. I'm. It sure I'd forego new to save $93 (oh, and his shipping is high).

Actually, I'm not sure this is a helpful post when I think about, but I hammered it out so there you have it.

I got to thinking about this post, because I'm in a mod quandary myself. This is a great place to get info and advice, but it is difficult sometimes because it spread out, sometimes contradictory, sometimes drawn from opinion and web-lore, and mod benefits reported often don't include the meta-data about what other mods might have been done before and how that might affect actual results.

It sometimes strikes me that there is some good data mining that could be done here (maybe data mining isn't the best phrase right now). It might be worth looking at mods by part/manufacturer and reporting actual test results (best) or other less rigorous results (not as good, but useful).

Too bad we don't have an intern.

It has often been documented and quantified that SRI's are not the way to go for the (overheating) VHR motor. CAI's are sadly the way to get power out of this motors intake side.

Understood, thanks for the clarification. The scientist in me thinks it would be interesting to keep statistics on gains from the common mods. Especially interesting because there are more thank few folks that get dyno numbers. Could be a fun data set to play with.

the gains on the CAI vs HAI is only on the top end anyways. Only issue is the hot engine bay that can heat soak the intakes and rob HP on launches. But when cruising its all good. I dynoed the Typhoons and got ~6rwhp gains on them. I like the easy install and not modding the car to install them.