Review: AAM Competition Cold Air Intakes S-Line/R-Line

jrb55gh

Are you saying that part throttle response and full throttle response are both smooth and linear now that your tuner has adjusted the MAF tables?

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Ecutek | DIY HR350 upper plenum | DIY ported lower manifold | TurboXS cbe | FI rhfc

socce

Trying to sort out the right CAI for my build ( FI TDX 18" / FI RHFC / Synolimit's Kit ) and I'm thinking about going with this over the z1. Wish there was some more feedback though. Anyone else have any positive / negative feedback to share with these intakes ?

flyfish

I've had the AAM intake installed for 9+ months, running in S-Line mode. Butt dyno feels good, more eager to rev, seems to wind up faster, easily reaches red-line. Initial install and comments above were without a CBE, since then I've added a FI TDX non-resonated CBE, more goodness of everything I stated plus FI.

Why did I choose AAM? No hard contact points with A/C or other lines... KN filters, if I need to replace they are easily sourced, KN filters, pre-filters are available, tune-ability pulling the inserts for R-Line (I hate buying stuff twice).

Also FWIW, I am running at altitude, intake and CBE are necessary IMHO, 52.59 HP loss at 5280'. This will make your day sea-level dwellers. Wallace Racing - Braking HP Loss at Altitude Calculator

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2016 Sport 6sp Deep Blue Pearl || AAM intake || FI TDX non-res CF + HF-Cats || TEIN MonoSport w/EFDC-II || Hotchkis sways || Z1 34 row oil + ps cooler + diff cover + oil pan spacer || TWM Short Shifter || SPL everything || MA-MS diff cooler || Stillen brake duct || ++

Corsairprime

Just finished the install on this AAM S-Line intake. Relatively smooth install going by the plans. Allow 3-4 hours from start to finish. More if you need to make mdifications. I did not remove the tires or fender liners on my Nismo. Modifying the existing intake holes in the front cross member was made easier using a dremel, a carbide cutting bit and sanding drum. For me, the PCV connections on the intake tubes needed to be trimmed 1/2 inch to allow better clearance for the valve cover breather connections. Passenger side more so because of the fuel line being right there.

When re-assembling the front bumper upper mount, the hood latch plate screws on either side can be swapped with the shorter hood latch mounting screws. They are shorter by half or so. There is no interference with the piping on either side and you still can use the factory Nissan screws.

AAM could look into using the factory hood latch mounting screws to swap with the front left and right hood latch cable support plate. There is no need to include the extra shorter screws for this. At least on my Nismo there was not a need. Also be sure to insulate or protect the AC lines on the driver side as the pass under the intake pipe there. I used heater hose tubing secured with electric tape. Abrasion or vibration is possible on those lines.

Just wanted to relate my install experience. So far it has been a happy one.

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Corsairprime
2014 Nismo #462, GunMetal Grey, GT-R Start Button, AAM S-Line/R-Line intake and S-Line exhaust, Berk HFCs, Osiris Tuned at JoTech

Corsairprime

For those who are wondering about temperature deltas, here is what I discovered.
I checked intake temps today and they are just a bit cooler than the stock units. Used DashCommand to measure them. 2-3 degrees cooler is my view. Also the car seems to breathe easier.

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Corsairprime
2014 Nismo #462, GunMetal Grey, GT-R Start Button, AAM S-Line/R-Line intake and S-Line exhaust, Berk HFCs, Osiris Tuned at JoTech

StevenSlice

Definitely gonna go with AAM for my CAI. Wonder if any AAM rep on here can help hook it up for someone who plans on doing Time Attack

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Kansei Corsa | Endless | Winmax | Hotchkis | ISR Performance | SPL Parts | Voodoo13 |Sabelt | PowerTrix | Corner 3 |