basic NA mods vs. Turbo kits

FortuneLSX-TT · 03-02-2013, 09:09 AM

#1. You mentioned longevity of 10 to 15 years.

I would have to say I think the kits are very reliable and a lot of it depends on the tune and how you drive it. However, there is no denying that when you go FI you add additional stress to the motor. You cannot get anything for free. Don't fool yourself, you are trading reliability for more hp. The only question is how much reliability are you willing to sacrifice for more hp?

In my case, a shop that installed a vacuum line too close to the exhaust caused my waste gates to not control the boost and BOOM, there went a motor.

#2. How much it costs depends on how much of the work you can do yourself. As others have said, with all the questions you have a TT is something you should hold off on. A DIY turbo is also way out of the question.

When modifying costs can escalate quickly.
Say you go TT

Stage 1 TT: 7500
Tune : 500
Oil Cooler 34 row: 600
Clutch/Flywheel: Varies ... say 1-2k
CSC: 400
Radiator: 600
Exhaust & Test pipes: 1500-2000

You're at at around 12k before you even install a single part.
And that's not including labor to install all the parts if you can't do it yourself. Even if you do install everything yourself, there are a ton of small things you're not accounting for. A tool here a tool there, and all the fluids you will need. They all add up. A/C recharge, clutch, power steering, coolant, oil change. (And hope you installed everything right and none of those fluids leak and have to be replaced)

That's not including optional extras either. External gates, boost controller, brake upgrades (pads and lines at least), some stickier and wider tires would be useful too. Some gauges would also be a nice investment, boost and AFR throw in another few hundred for those.

A lot of the other stuff can be added after the fact. But then again adding stuff after the fact may add additional labor too. Either way, you're looking at like 9k up front if you have all the exhaust, and cooling mods on the car already.

To be honest, you should probably stay NA. Turbo cars can be fun, but they can also be finnicky. It's a love/hate relationship most people have with their turbo car.

faya · 03-02-2013, 01:00 PM

thanks for all the inputs... now, i am getting the picture. it is really expensive. one comes after the other.

faya · 03-02-2013, 01:04 PM

now, my question is. once a kit is installed. do we have to put all the FI supporting mods rigth away or else we mess up the car? or we can wait until we have it.. like a project in the making. little by little.

MyKindaGuise · 03-02-2013, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by faya

now, my question is. once a kit is installed. do we have to put all the FI supporting mods rigth away or else we mess up the car? or we can wait until we have it.. like a project in the making. little by little.

You atleast need the oil cooler. NO exceptions.

Clutch, flywheel, csc I would just replace when the time comes..there are a few memebers on here that are close to 500ish whp and stock lasted them 10k miles I think. Not sure though.

fuct · 03-02-2013, 02:21 PM

.... hey everyone i want to start a winery, but im not too sure what to do. where do i buy grapes at?????

seriously OP im surprised this thread made it three pages. a TT kit is not for you. go buy a car with a factory turbo already on it, or get yourself a XL soda and some snacks and start to read the countless threads and gobs of info thats ALREADY out there.

best of luck, your poor brand new nismo needs it!!!!

showme99 · 03-02-2013, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bullitt@UAMotorsports

I will Post this again since it seems to be ignored...

The following is what you should expect to pay for the kit + Install + supporting Mods:

SC: $5~$10k
TT: $15~$25k
Insane TT: $50k~$100k+

NA: $5k~$15k

On the SC'er setup I know there were a few used sets going pretty cheap beware of used kits! Save yourself the hassle and buy a new one and not worry about broken or missing parts.

Like others have said expect another $2-3k+ on supporting mods for your kit. a typical GTM kit all said and done with supporting mods will cost you $15k+... If you want to go SC or TT call GTM!!! The guys are soooo helpful and will make sure you think of everything. Also, be prepared to replace your engine at any time! trust me when they decide to go they will go wether your on the highway at speed or in my case driving through the grocery store parking lot after just filling up with gas...

Boom!!!!

there went $5k for a new stock motor or $10k for a built one installed.

This is an expensive en devour make sure you have the funds and the PATIENCE to go down this road!!!

Mike

Just out of curiosity, how much HP/TQ were you pushing when your engine failed? From reading some of your previous posts in other threads, I seem to recall you having a serious beast under the hood.

bullitt5897 · 03-02-2013, 05:11 PM

The G37 was pushing the 540rwhp and 480tq range...

faya · 03-15-2013, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fuct

.... hey everyone i want to start a winery, but im not too sure what to do. where do i buy grapes at?????

seriously OP im surprised this thread made it three pages. a TT kit is not for you. go buy a car with a factory turbo already on it, or get yourself a XL soda and some snacks and start to read the countless threads and gobs of info thats ALREADY out there.

best of luck, your poor brand new nismo needs it!!!!

Well I must admit not all members here are like you. You got some issues man. Funny thing is you are watching it. That is why it is called forum. You may or may not answer. If you know so much about cars, good for you. Be thankful. No need to shout out that you are better than anyone.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk- faya baby!

deuce189 · 03-16-2013, 10:15 PM

I was in the same boat man, Even when i had my sti that was already turbo'd, when i went big it cost me net 13g's to build the block, rotated kit, clutch, fuel mods, etc...**** i probably spent more than that. It's such a hassle going big with forced induction. The car becomes way more temperamental, there was no more jumping and going, car had to warm up. I was always monitoring it, checking the oil, data logging it making sure there was no knocks. The car became more of a child. In the end I realized i enjoyed the car a whole lot more in it's semi modded stock form, none of the worry that i had when it was built, felt like i could just jump in and go. I'm pretty much sticking to my guns with the Z now. I want just jump drive and not worry about that ****. Like the others said if you already have a budget of 6g's then go ahead and double that. because even if you get the kit for 6g's you are going to find out that you have to spend 4 g's more on additional support parts/mods, not including labor to put it on, and then don't forget the tuning and the anxiety of hoping the car comes out perfect. That's just my opinion.

faya · 03-17-2013, 03:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deuce189

I was in the same boat man, Even when i had my sti that was already turbo'd, when i went big it cost me net 13g's to build the block, rotated kit, clutch, fuel mods, etc...**** i probably spent more than that. It's such a hassle going big with forced induction. The car becomes way more temperamental, there was no more jumping and going, car had to warm up. I was always monitoring it, checking the oil, data logging it making sure there was no knocks. The car became more of a child. In the end I realized i enjoyed the car a whole lot more in it's semi modded stock form, none of the worry that i had when it was built, felt like i could just jump in and go. I'm pretty much sticking to my guns with the Z now. I want just jump drive and not worry about that ****. Like the others said if you already have a budget of 6g's then go ahead and double that. because even if you get the kit for 6g's you are going to find out that you have to spend 4 g's more on additional support parts/mods, not including labor to put it on, and then don't forget the tuning and the anxiety of hoping the car comes out perfect. That's just my opinion.

It is really a big decision to make. Lots of uncertainties.. No guarantees..

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk- faya baby!

JC671 · 03-17-2013, 03:49 AM

Faya, take what I and these guys have basically said in one sense or another.

Most people go for broke when going big. They tend to forget about alot of small things.

Just know when you spend your 12-15K. Please, do have another 15K of cash waiting or on credit in case you will need a new motor or engine rebuild.

Insurance and warranty will not cover you here.

faya · 03-17-2013, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JC671

Faya, take what I and these guys have basically said in one sense or another.

Most people go for broke when going big. They tend to forget about alot of small things.

Just know when you spend your 12-15K. Please, do have another 15K of cash waiting or on credit in case you will need a new motor or engine rebuild.

Insurance and warranty will not cover you here.

i am getting the feel of it now. it is really a big decision to make.

it sounds like a lot of money..

i appreciate all the inputs.. feel free to share your thoughts..

roplusbee · 03-17-2013, 06:29 PM

Planning is the key when you undertake on a boost project. Make sure you have the "Oh ****" fund available or you will not like the results when things go wrong. I am not regretting any of my moves at all. If i were to go back and do it again, I would payoff the car first and then install my mods after. Right now, I am getting close to paying it off, but it is sitting @ UPREV awaiting a replacement radiator (the thing stated leaking after about 9-10 months).

On a side note, I made sure I got all top quality parts for my build. I think the only "popular" parts that I have in common with most of the other builds out there are Z-Speed CSC, Setrab Oil Cooler Core, Tial WGs/BOVs, and UPREV for tuning. I went against the grain and went Greddy TT, Competition Clutch Twin Disk clutch, Aeromotive 340lbs/hr Fuel Pump, ID1000 injectors, and Zerolift Autolab for equipment install.

Research and a well thought out plan are VERY important. It doesn't hurt to know who to go to for installation, parts, and advice (when necessary). I could have done the install myself, but I was out of the country and took advantage of some of the experts in the game. Good luck.

Rob

faya · 03-18-2013, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roplusbee

Planning is the key when you undertake on a boost project. Make sure you have the "Oh ****" fund available or you will not like the results when things go wrong. I am not regretting any of my moves at all. If i were to go back and do it again, I would payoff the car first and then install my mods after. Right now, I am getting close to paying it off, but it is sitting @ UPREV awaiting a replacement radiator (the thing stated leaking after about 9-10 months).

On a side note, I made sure I got all top quality parts for my build. I think the only "popular" parts that I have in common with most of the other builds out there are Z-Speed CSC, Setrab Oil Cooler Core, Tial WGs/BOVs, and UPREV for tuning. I went against the grain and went Greddy TT, Competition Clutch Twin Disk clutch, Aeromotive 340lbs/hr Fuel Pump, ID1000 injectors, and Zerolift Autolab for equipment install.

Research and a well thought out plan are VERY important. It doesn't hurt to know who to go to for installation, parts, and advice (when necessary). I could have done the install myself, but I was out of the country and took advantage of some of the experts in the game. Good luck.

Rob

well said sir. that is why I am wanting different thoughts. i can go either way so i am just taking my time. i just like to be in a position where I will not regret on whichever I decided on..thanks! that was a good comment..

cool!

03-02-2013, 09:09 AM	#31 (permalink)
FortuneLSX-TT Base Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Deltona, FL Posts: 144 Drives: 10 NismoTT MB M6 Rep Power: 16	#1. You mentioned longevity of 10 to 15 years. I would have to say I think the kits are very reliable and a lot of it depends on the tune and how you drive it. However, there is no denying that when you go FI you add additional stress to the motor. You cannot get anything for free. Don't fool yourself, you are trading reliability for more hp. The only question is how much reliability are you willing to sacrifice for more hp? In my case, a shop that installed a vacuum line too close to the exhaust caused my waste gates to not control the boost and BOOM, there went a motor. #2. How much it costs depends on how much of the work you can do yourself. As others have said, with all the questions you have a TT is something you should hold off on. A DIY turbo is also way out of the question. When modifying costs can escalate quickly. Say you go TT Stage 1 TT: 7500 Tune : 500 Oil Cooler 34 row: 600 Clutch/Flywheel: Varies ... say 1-2k CSC: 400 Radiator: 600 Exhaust & Test pipes: 1500-2000 You're at at around 12k before you even install a single part. And that's not including labor to install all the parts if you can't do it yourself. Even if you do install everything yourself, there are a ton of small things you're not accounting for. A tool here a tool there, and all the fluids you will need. They all add up. A/C recharge, clutch, power steering, coolant, oil change. (And hope you installed everything right and none of those fluids leak and have to be replaced) That's not including optional extras either. External gates, boost controller, brake upgrades (pads and lines at least), some stickier and wider tires would be useful too. Some gauges would also be a nice investment, boost and AFR throw in another few hundred for those. A lot of the other stuff can be added after the fact. But then again adding stuff after the fact may add additional labor too. Either way, you're looking at like 9k up front if you have all the exhaust, and cooling mods on the car already. To be honest, you should probably stay NA. Turbo cars can be fun, but they can also be finnicky. It's a love/hate relationship most people have with their turbo car. Streetlife, Legz, DEpointfive0 and 1 others like this.

03-02-2013, 02:21 PM	#35 (permalink)
fuct A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Sugar Land Posts: 3,692 Drives: 97' Ranger :) Rep Power: 24	.... hey everyone i want to start a winery, but im not too sure what to do. where do i buy grapes at????? seriously OP im surprised this thread made it three pages. a TT kit is not for you. go buy a car with a factory turbo already on it, or get yourself a XL soda and some snacks and start to read the countless threads and gobs of info thats ALREADY out there. best of luck, your poor brand new nismo needs it!!!! 370zHawaii likes this.

03-02-2013, 05:11 PM	#37 (permalink)
bullitt5897 Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: North GA Posts: 6,831 Drives: Twin Turbo Z34 Rep Power: 3682	The G37 was pushing the 540rwhp and 480tq range... __________________ *Shop Cars: 2013 318whp Nismo VspecII 370z SOLD, 2009 1000hp+ 93oct 4.0L TT 370z Fast Intentions STAGE 4 #054*

03-16-2013, 10:15 PM	#39 (permalink)
deuce189 Base Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Charleston, SC Posts: 142 Drives: 09 370Z MB M6 sport Rep Power: 14	I was in the same boat man, Even when i had my sti that was already turbo'd, when i went big it cost me net 13g's to build the block, rotated kit, clutch, fuel mods, etc...** i probably spent more than that. It's such a hassle going big with forced induction. The car becomes way more temperamental, there was no more jumping and going, car had to warm up. I was always monitoring it, checking the oil, data logging it making sure there was no knocks. The car became more of a child. In the end I realized i enjoyed the car a whole lot more in it's semi modded stock form, none of the worry that i had when it was built, felt like i could just jump in and go. I'm pretty much sticking to my guns with the Z now. I want just jump drive and not worry about that **. Like the others said if you already have a budget of 6g's then go ahead and double that. because even if you get the kit for 6g's you are going to find out that you have to spend 4 g's more on additional support parts/mods, not including labor to put it on, and then don't forget the tuning and the anxiety of hoping the car comes out perfect. That's just my opinion. blueranger likes this.

03-17-2013, 03:49 AM	#41 (permalink)
JC671 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Guam Posts: 451 Drives: Toretto around Rep Power: 14	Faya, take what I and these guys have basically said in one sense or another. Most people go for broke when going big. They tend to forget about alot of small things. Just know when you spend your 12-15K. Please, do have another 15K of cash waiting or on credit in case you will need a new motor or engine rebuild. Insurance and warranty will not cover you here. faya likes this.

03-02-2013, 01:00 PM	#32 (permalink)
faya Enthusiast Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Central Florida Posts: 360 Drives: 13 370z nismo Rep Power: 12	thanks for all the inputs... now, i am getting the picture. it is really expensive. one comes after the other.

03-02-2013, 01:04 PM	#33 (permalink)
faya Enthusiast Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Central Florida Posts: 360 Drives: 13 370z nismo Rep Power: 12	now, my question is. once a kit is installed. do we have to put all the FI supporting mods rigth away or else we mess up the car? or we can wait until we have it.. like a project in the making. little by little.

03-17-2013, 06:29 PM	#43 (permalink)
roplusbee A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Killeen, TX Posts: 2,360 Drives: 2007 350Z NISMO Rep Power: 22	Planning is the key when you undertake on a boost project. Make sure you have the "Oh ****" fund available or you will not like the results when things go wrong. I am not regretting any of my moves at all. If i were to go back and do it again, I would payoff the car first and then install my mods after. Right now, I am getting close to paying it off, but it is sitting @ UPREV awaiting a replacement radiator (the thing stated leaking after about 9-10 months). On a side note, I made sure I got all top quality parts for my build. I think the only "popular" parts that I have in common with most of the other builds out there are Z-Speed CSC, Setrab Oil Cooler Core, Tial WGs/BOVs, and UPREV for tuning. I went against the grain and went Greddy TT, Competition Clutch Twin Disk clutch, Aeromotive 340lbs/hr Fuel Pump, ID1000 injectors, and Zerolift Autolab for equipment install. Research and a well thought out plan are VERY important. It doesn't hurt to know who to go to for installation, parts, and advice (when necessary). I could have done the install myself, but I was out of the country and took advantage of some of the experts in the game. Good luck. Rob faya likes this. __________________ 2007 350Z NISMO #0618: Zerolift \| UPREV \| F.I. \| Greddy \| Competition Clutch \| Injector Dynamics \| Aeromotive \| Pioneer \| JL

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