Intake Air Temperatures
 

For those of you who put on new intakes, did you take any IAT readings before and after the intallation? The reason I ask is that I just completed The Modshack Fang Vent Modification and the intake air temp averages about
5 to 9 degrees above the ambient temp. This seems pretty respectable and am curious what others are seeing.

What you are seeing is certainly what I have seen in most cars employing a CAI-type package. The best I ever achieved was on a Shelby Mustang which averaged 2 to 3 degrees above ambient temperature. Everything else was 4 to 8 degrees average.

Yup..What you are seeing is very close to the results I got. My intakes are not sealed to the Fang vent tubes, but IAT's cool down much faster from underhood soak and generally run 6-10 degrees above ambient. If I were to seal the intakes to the inlets (or had stock air boxes) I suspect that number would be even lower.

With the vents, it's amazing to see how 150 degree+ temps dissipate so quickly after a red light heat soak...!

Not too many guys here have the abilty to measure IAT's so I don't suspect you'll get much response.

Cooler is better...:tup:

DIY on the vents is here: http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ur-airbox.html

Some more data over here: http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...eed-stock.html

I haven't retested since installing my oil cooler, but I suspect the IAT's will have risen from the heat coming off the oil cooler right under the passenger-side Stillen Gen 3 filter. Pretty soon I'm going to order up some hose and flanges from Modshack's setup and see what I can make work for the Gen3. I'm actually considering the shop-vac ends (like he used for intakes for his brake cooling on pics of another car) at the top of the hose run to dump cold air over the Gen 3 filters.

Modshack, is there anyway to do your set up with the G3 Intake cause the intakes run right through the place where you put the hoses?

i have the G3's with added intake ducting. My scangauge gets here tomorrow so ill be able to start getting readings.

I monitor my IAT's all the time. Mine run 6 to 8 degrees above ambient when cruising. I have stock intake boxes, Cobb silicone tubes, the fangs opened up and no ducting. The stock configuration is essentially a CAI.

I totally agree, with the Mod DIY and K&N drop ins your getting the same as aftermarket CAIs for alot less

I have the same IAT's with just the stock intakes, no silicone tubes or open fangs.

I have reported on intake temps in another thread as well:

http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...auge-info.html

Last post I made in this thread was on IAT's with stock intakes:

BTW, Takeda intakes are for sale, see the Private classifieds section if you're interested :rolleyes:

This confuses me, Steve. Your drop-ins just replace the oem filter, right? The stock intakes boxes are still there, which should negate Modshack's DIY, as the air is already being "pulled" from the outside, as opposed to what aftermarket CAI's (long and short) are doing.

I was going to look more into this DIY, but decided against it since I'm sticking with the stock intake, and it appears it would be for nothing. Correct me if I'm wrong though!

The stock intake gets its air from under the bumper cover. But when you install the Modshack vent it is getting cool, forced-fed air through the newly created opening in the bumper cover.

correct and the tubes are being directly aimed at the opening to the stock air boxes, it might even hook right to it, Im not sure I am waiting from Modshack to verify this. But the stock intakes are a CAI and by adding the tubes you are getting forced cool air directly to them and the K&N filters allow more air to flow thru them than stock filters.

Can we see pics of this setup. I was thinking of doing the same as I don't want to mess with changing the whole intake. thanks

go to the DIY section and look for Modshacks air vent diy, its a good complete job.

Sure...Just route the hoses toward the center where the G3 filters reside. YOu can use flanges there to hold the hoses..Attach to the bumper with a simple "L" bracket and point at the filters..

If you put the flanges on you are creating a direct feed from the Fang area. Seems the best way, but others have just poked the hose in there.. Since the Airboxes are sealed to this pass through it should work very well, but I suspect that 6-10 degrees over ambient is about the best we'll get since the MAF based temp sensors are actually in the engine bay..

No, I've seen the DIY for Modshack. I want to see pics of the guy I quoted KEVTEX. I want to see pics of the cobb silicone hoses with the stock air box. thanks though.

There is not much to look at with the Cobb silicone tubes as they are just round tubes that replace the factory corrugated ones. The fang block off plates were removed to make room for Blinder 27 laser jammer transceivers that I attached to the aluminum bumper. I just left the fang area open to let in more air.
http://www.the370z.com/members/kevte...ntake-tube.jpg
http://www.the370z.com/members/kevte...ntake-tube.jpg
http://www.the370z.com/members/kevte...es-removed.jpg

so how are those jammers working? Do they jam all the freqs? And can the cops tell if you are using one?

notice any power increase with the tubes or better throttle response?

Also does removing the fang block out plates do anything to aero effects of the car? Allowing more air sounds like a good idea as long as it doesn't make the car less stable at higher speeds.

The available reviews on laser jammers were favorable on the Blinder 27. I don't have any way to tell how well they work. Cops won't get a reading of the speed.
The Cobb tubes looked like they would have less flow restriction than the corrugated factory ones. Not enough difference for me to be able to feel it. No high speed issues as of yet. Letting more air into the bumper area shouldn't affect handling as the bottom is still covered with the plastic panel under the engine.

Thanks for the pictures of the Cobb silicone intake tubes. I just purchased a set, but haven't received them yet.

:tup: and we're gonna hook em up to these custom cut MAF tubes and my CAI system! Joe call ya about the tubes arriving?

http://images40.fotki.com/v1242/phot...MG_2329-vi.jpg

Man that looks nice Steve! :tup:

No I didn't hear from Joe today. I'll check with him on Saturday to see if they came in.

Woah! Please tell me you are going to do a writeup with that also. That may be the big kicker right there, depending on cost.

Preliminary design and write-up was here: http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...erimental.html
:tup:

From that thread:

Steve do you need to tune after installing the new MAF? I had put one put on my TT after it was tuned and I guess cause it was a bigger MAF it caused back firing and just didnt do good.

No...these are cut to work within the ECU self adjusting parameters which has proven pretty flexible.. Not radical at all..

The reason you needed a new MAF on your TT was because the old one was failing. All of a sudden you were asking for 40 more HP and the tired MAF couldn't supply enough of a signal to keep the fueling correct. They are particularly fragile on VW/Audi cars. On those I actually go up 12-15% in size, but up the fuel pressure to account for the lower MAF signal. Read the link in the quote above..

Anyone know the ID of the Cobb silicon tubes? Is it bigger than the corrugated? I saw that Modshack used custom 2.75" which is bigger than the 2.5' stockers, but I haven't seen any dimensions of the Cobb tubes.

Actually I just got my hands on a set this morning (Zpitrates)...... The MAF tubes I cut above had an OD of 2.75" and the Cobb's fit them snugly as they do the stock parts (below). The TB is also 2.75, so 2.75 it is!

http://images50.fotki.com/v1572/phot...MG_2335-vi.jpg

Awesome, Thanks!

Modshack,

Any updates on this project using the Cobb post MAF hoses and your custom made MAF? Will you be retaining the stock air boxes or using cone filters with the insulated tubes?

I'd be interested in your MAF, but not sure I really want to cut my stock boxes. We'll see.

Actually we are doing the install on Sunday. Airboxes are color matched to PG and done, New tube diameter tested on my car. The whole thing should bolt together nicely. We are essentially duplicating my custom CAI system here:
CAI experimental.....> album | Ttschwing | Fotki.com
It will be a little while til we install the Fang vents which are really an integral part of this. So far, the new Tube diameters seem to be working great on my car.. I'm sure John will post his impressions when done....He's still in the break-in phase though!....:tup:

http://images30.fotki.com/v38/photos...MG_2329-vi.jpg

What is it that the larger MAF tube does for you? Tricks the ECU into dumping more fuel?

Actually less. The car runs a bit rich to start with..

even after all the mods? Reading my AFR on the Cobb Im at 14.6 at idle and in the 12s when WOT, isnt that where I should be?

Yup. We're talking correction factors...Your AFR's are fine. 12.5-12.8 would be ideal for WOT power..

This change is not as radical as the MOFO I build for the VW/Audi's which requires fuel correction.. Theory:
Modshack | Stage 2 MOFO (BAMM)

Question: was it easy to get the fangs removed from the front fascia? I'd love to remove mine. Does it require to remove the whole front fascia?

I just removed my vent covers last night. All i did was drive the car up on ramps, remove the cover underneath the engine (a whole bunch of 10mm screws), then i was able to take a little 10mm wrench and loosen the two screws per side and take them the rest of the way out by hand. So it's possible without removing the bumper. FYI, i have smaller arms and hands, so i was able to manuaver up there pretty easy. Once the two screws are out you still have to kind of snap them out of the grill, scared me a bit, but it was no big deal.

Cool! I'm going to try to remove the inlets today. Will water that gets sucked up be able to flush out the bumper area? Any chance of water getting into the air filter?

Just removed the fang covers - it was a breeze. I believe it will help in cooling the engine, but will not add much cooler air to the area where the intakes get their air from. The area between the fang openings and intake area is separated by a rubber flap, presumably to keep water out. I will leave that flap there for now. And I answered my own questions I asked earlier today.