Intake Air Temperatures

Modshack · 02-24-2010, 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 370zForever

Modshack, is there anyway to do your set up with the G3 Intake cause the intakes run right through the place where you put the hoses?

Sure...Just route the hoses toward the center where the G3 filters reside. YOu can use flanges there to hold the hoses..Attach to the bumper with a simple "L" bracket and point at the filters..

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zsteve

correct and the tubes are being directly aimed at the opening to the stock air boxes, it might even hook right to it, Im not sure I am waiting from Modshack to verify this. .

If you put the flanges on you are creating a direct feed from the Fang area. Seems the best way, but others have just poked the hose in there.. Since the Airboxes are sealed to this pass through it should work very well, but I suspect that 6-10 degrees over ambient is about the best we'll get since the MAF based temp sensors are actually in the engine bay..

KEVTEX · 02-24-2010, 11:34 PM

There is not much to look at with the Cobb silicone tubes as they are just round tubes that replace the factory corrugated ones. The fang block off plates were removed to make room for Blinder 27 laser jammer transceivers that I attached to the aluminum bumper. I just left the fang area open to let in more air.

Zsteve · 02-25-2010, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KEVTEX

There is not much to look at with the Cobb silicone tubes as they are just round tubes that replace the factory corrugated ones. The fang block off plates were removed to make room for Blinder 27 laser jammer transceivers that I attached to the aluminum bumper. I just left the fang area open to let in more air.

so how are those jammers working? Do they jam all the freqs? And can the cops tell if you are using one?

280z/300zx · 02-25-2010, 12:15 PM

notice any power increase with the tubes or better throttle response?

Also does removing the fang block out plates do anything to aero effects of the car? Allowing more air sounds like a good idea as long as it doesn't make the car less stable at higher speeds.

JvKintheUSA · 04-01-2010, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KEVTEX

There is not much to look at with the Cobb silicone tubes as they are just round tubes that replace the factory corrugated ones. The fang block off plates were removed to make room for Blinder 27 laser jammer transceivers that I attached to the aluminum bumper. I just left the fang area open to let in more air.

Question: was it easy to get the fangs removed from the front fascia? I'd love to remove mine. Does it require to remove the whole front fascia?

ZforMe · 04-01-2010, 10:45 PM

I just removed my vent covers last night. All i did was drive the car up on ramps, remove the cover underneath the engine (a whole bunch of 10mm screws), then i was able to take a little 10mm wrench and loosen the two screws per side and take them the rest of the way out by hand. So it's possible without removing the bumper. FYI, i have smaller arms and hands, so i was able to manuaver up there pretty easy. Once the two screws are out you still have to kind of snap them out of the grill, scared me a bit, but it was no big deal.

JvKintheUSA · 04-02-2010, 06:24 AM

Cool! I'm going to try to remove the inlets today. Will water that gets sucked up be able to flush out the bumper area? Any chance of water getting into the air filter?

JvKintheUSA · 04-02-2010, 07:18 AM

Just removed the fang covers - it was a breeze. I believe it will help in cooling the engine, but will not add much cooler air to the area where the intakes get their air from. The area between the fang openings and intake area is separated by a rubber flap, presumably to keep water out. I will leave that flap there for now. And I answered my own questions I asked earlier today.

Modshack · 04-02-2010, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JvKintheUSA

Just removed the fang covers - it was a breeze. I believe it will help in cooling the engine, but will not add much cooler air to the area where the intakes get their air from. The area between the fang openings and intake area is separated by a rubber flap, presumably to keep water out. I will leave that flap there for now. And I answered my own questions I asked earlier today.

Well...this won't help in cooling the engine as it really needs no help and is regulated by the thermostat. These engines run pretty cool (water temp) actually at 180 degrees. Opening the fang vents should provide a little air to the Airbox intakes. There is no "Flap" so I'm not sure what you're talking about there. Water is NOT an issue. If you really want to improve things, connect the fang vents with the Pass through to the airbox for some forced cool air. DIY here: http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ur-airbox.html

KEVTEX · 02-25-2010, 02:02 PM

The available reviews on laser jammers were favorable on the Blinder 27. I don't have any way to tell how well they work. Cops won't get a reading of the speed.
The Cobb tubes looked like they would have less flow restriction than the corrugated factory ones. Not enough difference for me to be able to feel it. No high speed issues as of yet. Letting more air into the bumper area shouldn't affect handling as the bottom is still covered with the plastic panel under the engine.

ZPirate · 02-25-2010, 02:41 PM

Thanks for the pictures of the Cobb silicone intake tubes. I just purchased a set, but haven't received them yet.

Modshack · 02-25-2010, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZPirate

Thanks for the pictures of the Cobb silicone intake tubes. I just purchased a set, but haven't received them yet.

and we're gonna hook em up to these custom cut MAF tubes and my CAI system! Joe call ya about the tubes arriving?

ZPirate · 02-25-2010, 07:56 PM

Man that looks nice Steve!

No I didn't hear from Joe today. I'll check with him on Saturday to see if they came in.

roplusbee · 02-26-2010, 02:02 AM

Woah! Please tell me you are going to do a writeup with that also. That may be the big kicker right there, depending on cost.

Modshack · 02-26-2010, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roplusbee

Woah! Please tell me you are going to do a writeup with that also. That may be the big kicker right there, depending on cost.

Preliminary design and write-up was here: CAI: Modshack Experimental.....>

From that thread:

Quote:

On the MAF: The diameter of the tubing at the MAF determines the velocity of the Air flow over the MAF. The MAF controls the fuel signal with the 02 sensor sending corrective info to the ECU. Since The stock Z runs rich, I am constantly seeing a -9 to 10% correction on the long term (Partial throttle) fuel trims. You can open up that tube "slightly", drop the velocity therefore reducing the MAF signal while upping the volume, and therefore bring the fuel trims closer to 0% where the car will make more power. It's a balancing act to do it right. Trust me, I've done a LOT of experimenting on this with the Audi's and have Hundreds of thousands of test miles on the Tubes I build for them. . Very careful tuning of the pipe diameter can result in real gains as long as you don't go to the extreme of needing to alter the fueling. If you go too big you will need to. Lean cars make more power than fat cars from the fueling perspective. Ideal A/F ratios are around 12.5:1. Z's with a full compliment of exhaust and intake mods still run richer than that per Semtex's dynos (11.8:1 or so). This is why tuning gets more power...It brings the car up to a better A/F ratio for power. Corrections will happen automatically with regular ECU adaptation. The stock MAF tubes are 2.34" in ID. As best as I can determine the Stillens are around 2.37" which is a 2.5% difference in surface area! More air + less fuel = more power. If you want to study up on some of the reasoning, check out my page here:
http://www.modshack.info/bamm.htm
My initial Guestimate of a 2.5" ID seems pretty close. Just went out and ran the car for 40 miles and the long term fuel trims seem to average out to 0, + or - a few % points of correction. (BTW, The long term fuel trims or Partial throttle adjustment sets at the 20 mile mark after an ECU reset, then continues to adjust based on input from there on). 0% correction means the ECU is happy with the fuel mix and doesn't have to alter it to bring it into spec. A + number is a lean correction, a Minus is a rich correction. I need to put a few more miles on to see if this LTF % holds in that range. If it goes lean, I'll just cut some tubes a tad smaller.. It's all an experiment at this point..

04-01-2010, 10:45 PM	#6 (permalink)
ZforMe Base Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Memphis TN Posts: 238 Drives: 370Z Sport Auto PG Rep Power: 17	I just removed my vent covers last night. All i did was drive the car up on ramps, remove the cover underneath the engine (a whole bunch of 10mm screws), then i was able to take a little 10mm wrench and loosen the two screws per side and take them the rest of the way out by hand. So it's possible without removing the bumper. FYI, i have smaller arms and hands, so i was able to manuaver up there pretty easy. Once the two screws are out you still have to kind of snap them out of the grill, scared me a bit, but it was no big deal. __________________ 13.369 @ 102.73 Bone Stock. BERK HFC's installed 5/14/09 @ 1490miles, 13.212 @ 106.15. Cobb Post MAF Hoses installed 3/20/10 @ 5,043miles, future: FI exhaust with 18" res and s/s cans.

04-02-2010, 06:24 AM	#7 (permalink)
JvKintheUSA Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Canton, GA Posts: 465 Drives: 2013 Shelby GT500 Rep Power: 428	Cool! I'm going to try to remove the inlets today. Will water that gets sucked up be able to flush out the bumper area? Any chance of water getting into the air filter? __________________

04-02-2010, 07:18 AM	#8 (permalink)
JvKintheUSA Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Canton, GA Posts: 465 Drives: 2013 Shelby GT500 Rep Power: 428	Just removed the fang covers - it was a breeze. I believe it will help in cooling the engine, but will not add much cooler air to the area where the intakes get their air from. The area between the fang openings and intake area is separated by a rubber flap, presumably to keep water out. I will leave that flap there for now. And I answered my own questions I asked earlier today. __________________

02-25-2010, 02:41 PM	#11 (permalink)
ZPirate Track Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Greenville, NC Posts: 792 Drives: 09' 370Z & 03' 350Z Rep Power: 18	Thanks for the pictures of the Cobb silicone intake tubes. I just purchased a set, but haven't received them yet. __________________ 2003 Daytona Blue 350Z Touring/Nismo 2009 Platinum Graphite 370Z Touring/Sport (Sold) 2009 BMW 135i/Dinan Stage 2 software upgrade/M3 suspension piecies/Koni Sports/ETS FMIC/Alufelgen SF-71 wheels

02-25-2010, 07:56 PM	#13 (permalink)
ZPirate Track Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Greenville, NC Posts: 792 Drives: 09' 370Z & 03' 350Z Rep Power: 18	Man that looks nice Steve! No I didn't hear from Joe today. I'll check with him on Saturday to see if they came in. __________________ 2003 Daytona Blue 350Z Touring/Nismo 2009 Platinum Graphite 370Z Touring/Sport (Sold) 2009 BMW 135i/Dinan Stage 2 software upgrade/M3 suspension piecies/Koni Sports/ETS FMIC/Alufelgen SF-71 wheels

02-24-2010, 11:34 PM	#2 (permalink)
KEVTEX Base Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Montgomery, TX Posts: 119 Drives: 2010 370Z 7at sp pg Rep Power: 16	There is not much to look at with the Cobb silicone tubes as they are just round tubes that replace the factory corrugated ones. The fang block off plates were removed to make room for Blinder 27 laser jammer transceivers that I attached to the aluminum bumper. I just left the fang area open to let in more air.

02-25-2010, 12:15 PM	#4 (permalink)
280z/300zx Track Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Nevada Posts: 689 Drives: 280z, 300zx, Vette Rep Power: 273	notice any power increase with the tubes or better throttle response? Also does removing the fang block out plates do anything to aero effects of the car? Allowing more air sounds like a good idea as long as it doesn't make the car less stable at higher speeds.

02-25-2010, 02:02 PM	#10 (permalink)
KEVTEX Base Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Montgomery, TX Posts: 119 Drives: 2010 370Z 7at sp pg Rep Power: 16	The available reviews on laser jammers were favorable on the Blinder 27. I don't have any way to tell how well they work. Cops won't get a reading of the speed. The Cobb tubes looked like they would have less flow restriction than the corrugated factory ones. Not enough difference for me to be able to feel it. No high speed issues as of yet. Letting more air into the bumper area shouldn't affect handling as the bottom is still covered with the plastic panel under the engine.

02-26-2010, 02:02 AM	#14 (permalink)
roplusbee A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Killeen, TX Posts: 2,360 Drives: 2007 350Z NISMO Rep Power: 23	Woah! Please tell me you are going to do a writeup with that also. That may be the big kicker right there, depending on cost. __________________ 2007 350Z NISMO #0618: Zerolift \| UPREV \| F.I. \| Greddy \| Competition Clutch \| Injector Dynamics \| Aeromotive \| Pioneer \| JL

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