Personally I'd get them from the dealer only.

Just me, tho.

They're expensive as ****, too. Had to buy a couple due to a few 'issues' after the header install..grumble grumble..

Thank you soo much man.

I found them new for $125 on eBay. They are pricey as sh!t.

Shovelman, will I be able to see it from looking over the engine? do you think?

Take off the brace, engine cover, and maybe intake tubes, and yeah you should be able to get to it from the top.

Edit: Oh and it'll be stuck on there pretty good. Invest in a high quality O2 socket and some anti-seize for the new one.

Roger that man, thank you soo much bro, done deal. I swear man, I owe you a beer.

First time for everything I suppose. Ive never ever had that happen before...


EW...Here ya go
OEM VQ35HR / VQ37VHR Front Oxygen (O2) Sensor

cheapest youll find

That is basically COST for that sensor. I got mine for $184 each and that WAS cost.

You won't find a better deal!

No worries, glad I could help.

Just don't ever use an impact on your exhaust without taking out those sensors first. And never touch the sensor to anything.

Yep! Dealers charge $220.

post the ebay link if its oem and from a reputable seller id go the ebay route.

fuuuuckin A.:wtf2::wtf2:

Yeah, I think me and my installer learned a lesson..:icon17:

hehe yeah. Onboard wideband sensors are relatively new in the industry, the older sensors that are more commonly used aren't nearly as sensitive to vibration, debris etc.

Our cars hardly even seem to care if the downstream sensors work or not (they are narrowband). As far as my car knows, my cats are working just perfectly and they haven't been on the car in almost a year... lmao.

If you know anyone at a dealer they get them for $150 and some change.

Dude, you guys fricken RULE man, thank you sooooo much.

I could get with Jommer and see if he can hook me up.

whoever installed it probably damaged the sensor

Prices must have come down, thank God for that.

Oh snap, my bad, I paid $140 for mine @ cost, just looked up my records.

Still, Z1's price is great unless you have dahookup at a stealership.

Dude, $140 is a nice price.

Hes always been great with any of my sales. Highly recommended.

I guess thats why ive never had this happen to us. Weve worked on lots of different vehicles including multiple 370s and never had this happen. Im still sketchy on it being the actual cause but meh. EW let me know if you need any help you have my number.

Im gonna look into it on Sunday.. just kinda get a feel for what Im doing, I'll probably make the purchase for those new sensors by monday. Hell I may even just buy the passenger side first and see if that eliminates the problem. I may only have to replace just one.

If only one bank is throwing the code, might as well just place the one bank.

From looking at the OBD2 read out on the first page on this thread, do you think thats what it is?

Eastwest, after doing a couple of these HFC installs myself, I can honestly say the demon bolt can be a b!tch to work on BUT, if you have a 24 " breaker bar and the proper extensions, you should be able to either break it free or break it off without the need for impacts! I also used the aluminum floor jack handle extension tube as a breaker bar extension once too.... made it like 4 feet long! Bolt snapped like butter.

Good luck swapping out the O2 sensors, I'm sure that will go easier. :tup:

Ha we did that too with our floor jack. :tup:

EW post pics of what happened to our socket wrench.

The head literally broke off. Thats why EW said we did everything imaginable lol

Thanks Mark. After 2 days of trying we finally got it.

we did bro.... hahhaa geeeez.:bowrofl::bowrofl:

Pretty sure this was the demon bolt that trains other bolts to be demon bolts. This was the demon bolt overlord.

Well it's throwing an O2 heater code, so yeah probably just the one bank.

That said... The data for the second code is a little confusing. The voltages off of the sensors seem to be in line with each other, but was this read with the engine running at idle or the engine off?

Data logs with Cipher or some other OBD2 logging tool while being driven or even idling would be more useful than one data frame to see if one bank is reporting wonky data.

hahahhaaha...:bowrofl::bowrofl::bowrofl: EXACTLY. It was the ultimate nightmare.

It was with the car running. I connected the reader then started the car. I had it connected for a good 15 minutes. Take in to consideration that the weather was cold, and the engine was cold, so naturally it'll idle high until the engine warms, the idle settles. To normal operating temperature.

Brother, if you want me to run her with the reader connected, I'll do it, as soon as I get home from work.

According to the snapshot, coolant was at 89c (192f) so it was definitely warm when it snapped the data... :P

I don't know that it will help much, we would need logs, meaning a real-time string of logged parameters, usually in excel or CSV format.

I think you'd be good with just replacing that sensor, though. Seems pretty cut and dry.

yeah, I NEVER just jump in and drive her, I let it warm up everytime. I had the scanner on her for a good time. It was actually the first time I've ever used a OBD2 device. Literally I just bought it and used it for the first time. And I thought providing all the information from it, and putting it on here would help.

ok, thanks man. dude, I REALLY appreciate it!

I know its a bit late now but I did my HFC's just a few weeks ago. Am I the only one on here who took off the intake boxes/pipe?? This made the demon bolt easy to get to with a long extension, just a straight to it. I had them both off in less than 5 min once the airbox was removed.

I had no CEL light.

You're very lucky then, because even with the long extension we had, and the air boxes & tubes removed, the damn bolt wasnt budging an inch. One cat, we cut off. The other, we got lucky and the bolt snapped off. Thank the lord, because it was gonna be a loooong night.

It took quit a bit of force and an extention for the handle but they did pop off. Does Nissan not believe in torque values? They seem to be on there as tight as possible :)

It was a 2 day job, we tried cutting the head off the bolt, we tried burning it off, it just sucked... BIG time.