intake hack
 

well,i first tried the k&N drop ins.then bought the z1 tubes.i honestly didnt feel much.so after many observations of all the different intakes on this forum including custom.i decided to try my own.i can tell you that it does pull harder than the k&n drop ins and maf tubes without question.and its not a placebo effect either cause i really cant hear the intake because of my exhaust.it pulls so much better and easier now.

sure it's not perfect but its not throwing any cel's and it does the trick.even on the interstate,it pulls better.so anyway,i tried to copy the k&n typhoons as much as i could just from the pics.the filter has a 3" opening connected to about 2" of aluminum pipe that you can't see.from there i have silicone reducers going from 3" down to 2.5" connecting it to the hacked oem pipe.everything is smooth inside and works great.dont have the money right now for the k&n's so this will do for now.thought i would share.and yes,i know alot of people prefer the gen 3's cause of their local providing cold air and such.but honestly,i didnt feel any power loss over the drop ins.only felt gains.here is a pic.
http://www.the370z.com/members/kenny...t-question.jpg

Frankenstein

doesnt look bad at all. The couplings look a little off but who cares. As long as you like thats all that matters.

thanks. it was an experiment that worked out very well on the performance side as i just didnt feel the drop ins were doing me justice.i will have to wait and see what it does after i get a full exhaust as to whether i will keep it or not.for now,im not complaining.

Kenny's at it again...

Whats the deal with smog in your state? In California that would not pass smog without a carb sticker.

no cel's and a clean exhaust gas is all i have to worry about.

I like the way Kenny thinks!!

I experimented quite a bit with this method, I can pretty much guarantee you that you lost power doing that. Likewise, another member on here did something similar, and also saw losses up top.

The MAF sensors are VERY sensitive to airflow tumble effects. In short, if those intakes are moving around and or you relocated the MAF sensors, the MAF misreads will cost you power.

Also, the filters are not heat shielded, and that too is likely to cost you power.

Check out my proven power dyno thread (search my username and that); the K&N filters actually add quite a bit of power, and those plus smooth tubes are within striking distance of the G3's at half the cost.

Attempting to rate the impact of tuning mods with the butt dyno is ill advised -- if you compare that to stock + K&N on a dyno, odds are very good you will see big loss in power up top.

It will SOUND mean, and FEEL like its pulling harder, but its 50-50 at best that it's performing any better.

Let the Frankenstein intake live and he might just end up with an innovation that passes all of our expectations. I enjoy seeing fellow inventor and experiments.

i appreciate the info,i do :tiphat:.but it does pull harder where i need it and the filters do have some heat shielding.the intakes are stationary and the airflow is pretty smooth.if in fact i feel like im losing power,i will rid these intakes.for now though until i can get the typhoons,i will enjoy the power this setup provides.:)

EDIT;today is the first day i had a long distance ride with these intakes.i didnt feel any power loss up top to 140 cause thats where i let off.car just feels 100% better even in 90 degree heat.i did notice about 1 1/2 seconds worth of heat soak after sitting at a light upon immediate acceleration but makes up for it everywhere else.me like.(this is not my first rodeo making intakes).

today i was looking at my set up and i decided to improve on it more.so i put the filters as far away as possible from the hood where heat gathers.filters stayed cold as ice tonight with ambient at 65.they were cold like i was holding the filter out the window while driving. when i got home and popped the hood,its like they were sitting in ice.i do have fender liner vents as well and the vacuum that is created there,its pulling more air from the oem cold air vents.

after what jordo said,i made sure the intakes would not move.i simply loosened the z1 tubes at the throttle body,and turn the tubes inwards putting the filters right in front of the cold air vents(after modifying them as well) and the tip of the filters are braced on the part of the oem box i retained.

still havnt experienced any power loss and since i buried the filters,my gas mileage also went up even at 100 plus.anyway,im just sharing my project thats working great for me.:).i feel that after i get the pullies,m370,exhaust,and a tune,this car will be scary to drive in 65 degree ambient.:driving:

http://www.the370z.com/members/kenny...ed-filters.jpg
http://www.the370z.com/members/kenny...5-100-0528.jpg
http://www.the370z.com/members/kenny...soak-setup.jpg

I have to ask... Why?

For $325 you can get the K&N Typhoon that looks a lot better and has real engineering behind it. Plus it fits perfectly and has heat shields.

To each his own, but for a little more, I would have gone with the K&N.

edit; because these pull way better than the drop ins and the k&n typhoons sit way too high towards the hood.im keeping my custom setup.3 days of driving with them now and the car pulls hard enough to impress me and thats saying ALOT.

What catch cans are you running?

I did this exact same thing. The misreads will cause you to read either lean or rich or vacillate between the two -- trust me on this one. I couldn't tell using my butt dyno either, but a dynojet set the record straight.

Dyno it vs. stock airbox and see if your project worked. It's not the design or the idea that's poor, it's just a limitation of the sensitivity of the MAF sensors.

We have the same sensors and the same car -- to assume yours work differently doesn't make sense.

Now, that said, if you build bracketry to clamp down the intakes well enough to prevent any movement it might work, but without a dyno, there's no way to tell.

go kart cans.got the idea from another member on here.after just 2 days of short trip driving,there was oil in the cans.

trust me,the intakes are not moving,they are braced very well.i looked at your hack and imo,your air filter was too small and putting the filter inside the box restricted air flow.i know this from a prior hack on another car.i am using a 2" long 3" diameter aluminum pipe to connect the filters and the silicone reducers to the cut off maf tubes.

i understand what you are saying but the car feels stronger now than it did with the drop ins and maf tubes even though im still using the maf tubes.it is a very smooth air transition inside the pipes.the aluminum pipe is very thin and i sanded the maf tubes down to an angle to eliminate turbulance.car felt so strong tonight in 65 ambient,i really dont see the need to go further with the mods even though i will.

i will say this.for those people that are running the typhoons,i would be angling the filter down as far away as i could from the top of the hood by loosening the connection by the tb's and angling the metal tubes inwards to drop the filter further away from the hood where heat gathers at idle if thats even possible.when i dropped my filters as far as i could,my gas mileage is staying around 21.6 with very spirited driving.anyway,im just in testing phases to see what positioning of the air filter works best under the hood.and so far,the gen 2 makes more sense according to my butt dyno and the cars computer.

edit: im keeping my setup.:tup:

I also dynoed with the airboxes out thinking the exact same thing. The filters I used were the same as those used for other intake kits, so should have been fine.

If they aren't moving around, it should work -- let us know if you decide to dyno. It's the only way to know for sure...

He chopped the hell out of the stock intake box, so there isnt really any easy way for him to do an accurate measurement...plus, if he doesn't want to spend cash on a pre-engineered intake, doesn't really make sense for him to spend cash on a dyno.

lol.its not about spending money on an intake.its about getting the best performance possible with a sri.there will be PLENTY money spent on this car with future mods.i do like the typhoons but as i said,the filters sit too high close to the heat.engineer me a sri where it places the filters in the same local as mine and i will be all over it.it takes so much less effort now to get up to speed than it did with the drop ins.im happy and will be moving on to my next mod which will be exhaust and pullies.also engineer me some heat shields like i have modified the boxes and ill buy that too. :)

I can think of two off the top of my head that sits in the same spot. The Takeda and Stillen Gen II's.

with the design of my pipe !

:confused:
How unique is your pipe design exactly? The Stillen and Takeda are essentially one continous piece of pipe from the filter to the tb. I don't see how yours could have any sort of advantage over those other intakes.

http://www.the370z.com/members/m-j--...165-intake.jpg
http://www.vividracing.com/forums/ga.../4/3/370z3.jpg



....or even the HKS if price isn't an issue.
http://cdn3.openclutch.com/sites/def...issan-370z.jpg




http://www.the370z.com/members/kenny...t-question.jpg


I'm not knocking your work, just curious as to the actual functionality compared to what's already out there and if you're actually making power....The butt dyno isn't very scientific, especially when something as simple as weather conditions can make the car feel faster.

it looks like my design is almost like the 3rd pic with the yellow filters.what intake is that ? and if you'll notice where my filters are sitting in the side profile shot vs the first pic,you'll see how much i dropped the filters from the top of the hood.didnt feel any heat soak after i did that. the power steering res is how you can judge the diff from where the filters were sitting in the first pic.i wouldnt mind trying the 3rd pic with a different air filter though.

edit;and ambient of 78 with this setup vs 65 with the drop ins,this setup still feels faster.

The 3rd pic is the HKS. Crazy expensive and they make anywhere from 0-5 hp gain.

i can see why with no heat shielding.

without an actual dyno for comparison i don't see how you can preach how must "stronger" the car feels and how efficient your intakes are :ugh2:

you call a cut up stock airbox efficient heat shielding? i'd like to say Stillen Gen 2's actually have heat shields.

im not preaching,i was just sharing my experience.my bad :ugh2:

That's kind of why I'm curious about your project. The HKS looks pretty, but nothing more.

i basically had the drop ins with the maf tubes.all i did,was remove the boxes from the oem maf tubes,and added a 3" diameter free flowing filter with 2 inches of a 3" diameter thin aluminum pipe on each intake with a silicone reducer on each intake making sure there was a smooth transition of air and used the boxes as a brace and shield.the filters do not get hot so who knows lol.meh,so im not making power but it sure feels nice.sorry i made this thread.carry on :)

Man, too many guys dogging you every chance they get, I'd go get it dyno'd that way all this fuss over your idea and wether it works or not will be put to rest. S*** maybe you found the secret sauce other intakes are missing who knows.

I vote dyno it and we see whether it's a failure or success. I mean, if people are buying the ridiculously priced HKS without proper heat shielding (based on what others have said in this thread) and practically zero gains they should be excited about another alternative like this. Don't be saying "sorry I started this thread" over what these guys are saying until the numbers are in!

I'm not dogging his idea, I'm just a little skeptical at the resulting gains. Who knows, maybe the filters he's using lets in more air but isn't really "filtering" the air. This is probably given, but I hope the filters he's using aren't the cheap K&N knock-offs you see at autozone.

yep,its the spectre.i went with one of the bigger spectre filters when i had the fujita cai i had on another car when the fujita filter was done and felt more power with the spectre hence why i tried the smaller ones on this car.never had a problem with the other car and dont expect to have any problems on this car with these filters.

I see. Like I said, not trying to dog your mod, just looking out for you. You might not get any codes and it will seem to run fine, but that doesn't mean automatic, proper filtration. To be honest, I don't know a whole lot about that particluar brand. The only way to really know is to get your oil analysis done and see if its doing the job. Check out blackstone labs.

The only way this would be useful would be with stock and modded dynos performed same car, same dyno, under the same conditions. An after mod dyno only would tell you nothing about whether there were gains or not..