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Ebay long tube Headers

Primary Tube : 1.7 " OD Collector : 2.5 " OD Flange Thickness : 3/8" Runner Wall Thickness : 16 Gauge (1.5mm) 2 x O2 Holes , 2 x ERG

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Old 06-23-2012, 03:53 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Primary Tube : 1.7 " OD
Collector : 2.5 " OD
Flange Thickness : 3/8"
Runner Wall Thickness : 16 Gauge (1.5mm)
2 x O2 Holes , 2 x ERG
this is the ebay headers numbers!!! and i am sorry no dyno comparison!!! just buy it to try and see if they work with the Nismo exhaust...,and believe it or not for my wing works perfectly and when to get hooked second is when you feel more power an more pull.,,and the sound is as much as I like and the money I gave for them was very fair. but other brands can last and be of better quality but for now I feel no difference in quality since they are still where I put them and are not cracked in any way and do the job I want!! I live in Puerto Rico is an island surrounded by sea water and not noticed any marks on the pipe mold with corrosion...
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Old 06-23-2012, 05:13 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BigT View Post
Thats weird. All my V8 buddies say 1.7 and larger is only necessary for big block stroker motors. Our engines aren't necessarily on the large side.
The amount of air that is flowing through a motor will dictate how large the primaries need to be.with 370's pushing as much power as it is from six cylinders, its understandable why they went that size. DOHC motors flow more air for its liter size than pushrod motors.
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:24 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BigT View Post
Thats weird. All my V8 buddies say 1.7 and larger is only necessary for big block stroker motors. Our engines aren't necessarily on the large side.
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Originally Posted by SS_Firehawk View Post
The amount of air that is flowing through a motor will dictate how large the primaries need to be.with 370's pushing as much power as it is from six cylinders, its pounderstandable why they went that size. DOHC motors flow more air for its liter size than pushrod motors.
Here is how it works. Engines are just air pumps in principle. So a 7 liter big block V8 has .875 liters per cylinder, and a 3.7 liter V6 has 0.62 liters per cylinder. The big block revs to about 6K RPM and the V6 to about 7.5K RPM so with one intake stoke every other rotation of the engine this equates to 2625 liters per minute of air flow per cyclinder at redline for a 7 liter V8. The 3.7 liter V6 would have 2325 liters per minute per cylinder of airflow at redline. Essentially the maximum air flow that any one primary on our engine is comparable to the maximum air flow on a big block.
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Old 06-25-2012, 09:52 PM   #19 (permalink)
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y/n for this product???
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Old 06-26-2012, 03:33 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Srenity View Post
Here is how it works. Engines are just air pumps in principle. So a 7 liter big block V8 has .875 liters per cylinder, and a 3.7 liter V6 has 0.62 liters per cylinder. The big block revs to about 6K RPM and the V6 to about 7.5K RPM so with one intake stoke every other rotation of the engine this equates to 2625 liters per minute of air flow per cyclinder at redline for a 7 liter V8. The 3.7 liter V6 would have 2325 liters per minute per cylinder of airflow at redline. Essentially the maximum air flow that any one primary on our engine is comparable to the maximum air flow on a big block.
2325 is comparable to 2625?

dyno numbers don't always mean everything. Its part throttle response too, that adds to the "fun" factor in driving.
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Old 12-18-2012, 01:07 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by David Parra View Post
y/n for this product???
I would like to know also
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Old 12-18-2012, 04:38 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I still say stick to F.I. or PPE
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Old 12-18-2012, 04:44 AM   #23 (permalink)
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**Everything you need to know about eBay headers** - E46Fanatics


people seem to run ebay headers just fine on their M3s, and for a fraction of the price, you can get the same performance as name brand heads

imo, it cant hurt to purchase ebay heads, whats the worse case? everything is cracked and doesnt fit, so you use ebay buyer protection to get a refund and buy name brand heads
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Old 12-18-2012, 05:43 AM   #24 (permalink)
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When you decide to install them on the 370Z, and realize your $hit doesn't fit, let me know how you feel. The reassurance alone that PPE or F.I never had fitment issues is enough to merit the cost difference. The Ebay Header merge collector looks like it was molded from playdough. I wouldn't recommend running them without ceramic coating, something your not going to get with Ebay headers either, you have to go out and do it yourself or have a shop do it for you. By the time your craptastic headers are ready for install, you could have found a better quality used LTH here on the forums. Headers aren't just headers. A great header is tuned specifically for your vehicle, it's not one that fits where it's supposed to go, and like said before, that's hit and miss. This isn't the spot you want to try and save money on an inferior part. Going to waste more money when you uninstall it and put your stock stuff back on.
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Old 12-18-2012, 06:00 AM   #25 (permalink)
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^HAHA I agree 110%. Spend the money and don't skimp. Why purchase a nice car and then spend rice money? You can also go to your local hardware store and get PVC pipes and make yourself a CAI but I don't recommend it. If you wanna go cheap then get a civic and join the fart can club. But if you wanna stay in the clean import game then do it right and save until you can afford the proper parts.
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Old 12-18-2012, 08:29 AM   #26 (permalink)
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the problem with most ebay headers are the collector which has to be made the proper way.
not just like the megan/stillen/obx

if you really want to save a couple hundred $$$ for an ebay header but pay for the labour of doing the swap . why not just pay a bit more for the optimum performance ?

if you are really that cheap , just get an ebay test pipe , this wil give the same HP added than your cheap ebay header ! for a fraction of the cost
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:06 AM   #27 (permalink)
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let me chime in... as someone WHO ACTUALLY OWNS an obx product on another car, i can tell u it will perform just fine. the fit won't be too terrible. but will discolor like a SOB and be ugly as hell in a few hundred miles. i've been running an OBX 3" downpipe on my volvo for 50k+ miles. the car is currently running double the factory boost (18psi), and i don't always baby it. exhaust housing temps on the turbo can reach over 1500 degrees and this cheap downpipe has yet to faulter.

i would say give it a try. if u are on a budget, these might be the answere to getting some long tubes on the cheap. if they don't work out, u aren't out that much out of pocket..
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:20 AM   #28 (permalink)
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thanks guys ill stick to PPE
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Old 12-19-2012, 10:27 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 370Zfeeler View Post
Not really, in fact they are smaller than the other brands, PPE LTH design uses stepped tubes from 1.75" to 1.875" and Fast Intentions is all 1.75" for the primaries.
Thought FI used 1 5/8" ?



And for folks wondering about mid/low torque loss, don't. It's not noticeable or measurable, in my experience.
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Old 12-19-2012, 10:54 AM   #30 (permalink)
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^HAHA I agree 110%. Spend the money and don't skimp. Why purchase a nice car and then spend rice money? You can also go to your local hardware store and get PVC pipes and make yourself a CAI but I don't recommend it. If you wanna go cheap then get a civic and join the fart can club. But if you wanna stay in the clean import game then do it right and save until you can afford the proper parts.
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