I live in Tennessee and the closest UpRev tuner is Z1 Motorsports. It's a bit of a trip to get out there and as I said before, I really don't have the capacity to spend the money on a tune right now. In a few more months I will be able to. That's why I asked if it's safe for me to leave the parts on for a few months or if I should remove them and re-install them once I get my tune.

You can make dyno runs without tuning your car & see where your AFR is...unsure what a Dyno shop charges.
Our local shop use to be $50 for 2 pulls & he's gone up to 75...he also gives out printed sheets w/graphs,whp,wtq,and it shows AFR.
Custom tunes start around 600+ (this includes license).
I added FI TP's,exhaust & a CAI (didn't move the placement of my mafs) and it ran 12.20AFR before taking to get a tune...it never threw a cel & drove 5-600 miles before going to Z1 for a tune.

Also; what sensors are throwing the codes? And were any impact wrenches used on exhaust with O2's still in place?

The car is now throwing the following codes:

P2096 - Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 1

P2098 - Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 2

I clear the codes and they come back in roughly 50 miles or so. They didn't come on within the first 150-200 miles after installing the ART Pipes though. I removed both O2 sensors before removing the original converters. The O2 sensors were both removed by hand with a wrench and a slotted O2 socket so they shouldn't be damaged. Now that I think about it I did put them back on but only hand tighten them.. that could be a problem? lol

My car has Berk HFCs on it, and threw those codes once before being tuned, and has since thrown those codes once since being tuned. I wasn't running lean before being tuned though (More here), I was running rich.

Torque spec I believe on the O2 sensors is 33 ft-lbs, so you could have achieved that with by hand. However that's honestly not one I deem critical, and I use a torque wrench for practically everything.

My car has only thrown those codes twice, and I just chalk it up to the HFCs, but it's been 5000 miles apart, so I haven't worried about it. If it does it again, I'll talk to the tuner. In your case with test pipes, they maybe causing this (since it reoccurs so quickly). The other possibility is an exhaust leak.

Definitely best to be hand removed & installed before wrenching on exhaust bolts....Sound's like those specific pipes may be causing the light-pending you have no exhaust or intake leak.
Unsure how close you are to one of those performance shop's listed in Tenn. w/Dyno,
but they can give you a baseline HP/TQ reading & let you know where your AFR is.
Better safe than sorry; Hopefully other's w/same pipes,intake will chime in & give advice,,,as lean condition's will destroy engine's.

I've been reading that it could be caused by an exhaust leak. What are the chances that the connections between the headers and the ART Pipes is leaking or even the Y pipe since I had to remove that to install the new setup.

Raise it up & get underneath it; feel around connections while someone rev's engine...you can't always hear a small leak; but look for suit around all joints.

I went ahead and purchased a set of the Z1 metal gaskets for the connections between the headers/ART pipes and the ART pipes/y-pipe. I'll get under the car once they arrive and try replacing the gaskets that came with the ART pipes with the new Z1 gaskets. I've read a lot of good things about the Z1 gaskets resolving most exhaust leak issues. I was able to find a few local dyno tuners in the Nashville area too so I'm going to call around this week to see what I can have done. Thanks for your help! I'll provide an update once I get this all sorted out.

Tenfo.
And you do not have to have a custom tune performed there;
Just a couple baseline runs on the Dyno-to ensure your AFR is ok & will give you a piece of mind & an idea of where you stand with power.
I like Jon@Z1 & thinks he does a fantastic job on the tuning end!

The results are in. I took it to a local shop and did four pulls on the dyno. They connected an air/fuel gauge to the car to monitor the ratio throughout my pulls. They said that it would start out a little lean and then clean up in the higher RPM's and that it's not lean enough to cause any problems. This is good news because now I can wait until the end of the year to get my car tuned. My best pull made 312hp and 237lbs./tq. as seen in the dyno sheet below. This was on my 2017 Nismo 370z with Stillen Gen 3 intakes, Motordyne ART Pipes, and AAM Resonated Short Tails. Not entirely sure if these are decent numbers or not. It was really hot in the shop too.

https://preview.ibb.co/iHJHnk/IMG_20170701_142309.jpg

That's a flat torque line & steady HP climb.
What gear were the pulls performed in?


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I received a couple different papers that had the AFR at the bottom; this is mine w/K&N drop-in's only...a 4th & 5th gear pull (1.41:1 & 1:1) w/3.36 rear axle gear.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9edb02833c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...677268fde2.jpg
A 1:1 transmission ratio will be the most accurate & yield a higher number,,,but my speed limiter kicked in @155'ish.
Also-you having a 17' Nismo w/manual trans. You should have a 3.92:1 axle ratio instead of the 3.69:1's that came in 09-14's.
I do know that a lower axle ratio(larger #) will yield a lower whp/Tq on the dyno...unsure the correct answer for this; but have seen others say/shown it with gear swaps.


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All four pulls were completed in fourth gear. I thought the torque line looked a bit odd but I'm not sure. The torque looks lower compared to other dyno results that I've seen for similar vehicles. I'm sure I can have it ironed out when I get everything tuned. I'm just glad that my air/fuel ratios look good and that it won't cause any problems. It's definitely given me peace of mind.

Looking good,
as your 4th gear is 1.27:1 & 5th is 1:1,,,he could have easily performed a 5th gear pull with the axle ratio that you have; Torque would have risen up & your speed would have been around 150'ish.

I'll have to keep that in mind when I get it tuned later this year. I really appreciate all of your help!

Anytime Bud,
Jon will be able to answer any question's you have about dyno #'s.
I see your number's went up with every pull; i'm thinking around 200* oil temp yield's the best power.(don't hold me to this one) as i was informed by a tuner,,,this could be why your power was climbing.

Z1 Intake, AAM Shorttails currently. Looking to get test pipes or HFC's. Should I get a tune after the HFC's / test pipes? Looking at the fast intentions test pipes and AAM HFCs.

Anybody?


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Already have HFC's and a Cat-back.

Getting my Stillen Gen 3's delivered today.

I already know I'm getting a tune, but unfortunately the two reputable shops near me won't have weekend availability for about 3 weeks.

My inner car-guy reeeeeally wants to put them on ASAP.

Would it be a wise decision to not install them until the day of getting tuned, or should I be alright driving around for a couple weeks so long as I don't go full hoonigan?

Thanks!

you'll be fine without a tune, even to hoon, your car will just run a little rich that's all

Wouldn't it be running lean from more airflow?

Yes.

I'm planning to get a tune but wondering if I should also upgrade my injectors. I will have (ordered and coming in) 3" intakes, 70mm throttles, test pipes, y-pipes, and already have a cat-back.

I'm looking to get a set of GTR 550cc injectors because I have read that 3" intakes causes the stock injectors to be running in the 90% duty cycle. Anyone with EPS and 3" intakes have experience with this?

Latez

BUMP

Looking at a deal on a set of intakes and already have test pipes, an Invidia Gemini and an ecutek dyno tune. Can I install and drive without worry or do I need to retune immediately? Leaning out scares the **** out of me.

2016 370z
Tomei test pipes, y-pipe and muffler
Z1 cold air intake. Planning on getting it tune at intec racing in Kent. Can I drive it till then, check engine light is on. Haven't scan yet....

With those mods, you’ll be good to drive there then tune. The CEL is most likely from the test pipes.


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Figure I ask, even if it's a stupid questions that's been ask over and over. I email intec racing seeing if they have any available openings to get the car tune. Should I be worry and not drive it? Oh btw it's loud ASF..

Better safe than sorry so I don’t blame ya for asking. But you’ll be fine. When you said muffler, does that mean it’s deleted? If so, paired with test pipes it’ll be loud. Do you have the o2 spacer in?


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Should be OK as long as you baby it a little bit until you get the tune. Watch your temps in case you're running lean. I would definitely see which DTC(s) are causing the CEL (probably the test pipes messing with O2s but it only takes a minute to check).

Hey thanks for replying Panda!
Full tomei; tomei test pipes, tomei y pipe, tomei muffler. No o2 extender spacer, figure I get it tune. It's loud ASF cruising at 80mph even with the volume at half turn. Just waiting on intec racing to get back at me with available openings, so I can get it tune.

Will do, thanks!

Hey guys, it's better just ask this silly question then to learn it the hard way. Just got my Z 4 months ago. Installed a catback and that's it. Planning on getting a resonated test pipe. Will I NEED a tune for the TP? I don't want to tune the car since power isn't my focus at the moment.

Better yet, learn how to search. This question has been asked and answered many times already.

If you don't like the site's search function, go to just about any web search engine and add "site:the370z.com" to your search string.

After I had an Invidia Gemini fitted to mine it wasn't running as sweetly as it was. In the end I tried disconnecting the + terminal on the battery for a few minutes to see if that would reset the learning and force it to relearn.

It worked far better than I had hoped and it's been sweet ever since. The only downside is having to reset the clock and the windows. If you do it read the book for the windows because you would never figure it out otherwise.