Hydro lock need help
 

I got an oil leak from my oil cooler due to wrong fitting usage. So I rinsed the car's engine bay to wash off all the engine oil that splattered but I forgot to cover the intake so now trying to start the car it would sputter for a few seconds then die. Any advise?

You're not hydro locked, so don't worry about that.

You'll need to pull the air filters and the coils/plugs, get them all dried out and try again.

It's probably more like you got some moisture on your MAF sensors. Just take them out and let them dry along with your filters and you should be good to go. :tup:

:werd:

Thank you so much guys I will give that a try because i did hose the whole engine bay pretty harsh. I'll keep you guys informed

Use some contact cleaner inside the leads, if you haven't got any compressed air. Also spray some silicone on the wires and leads after you reinstall. You could also use some Dielectric Grease if you prefer. Just blow out the filter and let it dry.

i took out the MAF sensor and the air filter to dry for over 2 hours, it's doing a little better but still die after a couple of seconds.

Do you guys think I need to do also take out the ignition coils and the spark plug to let it dry? Also how about the electronic throttle body? In order to get to all the spark plug, it seems that i have take a lot of stuff apart before I can get to it (i.e. struct tower brace, intake hose, engine cover, etc)

You've got two MAF sensors (and air filters). Take them (MAFs) out and spray with carb cleaner. Let them sit out for quite awhile to dry.

After losing my 350 to full-blown hydro-lock. Don't be in any hurry to start the car. Let it dry.

Yup, two of each, but be wary of using carb cleaner on the MAF's, it's usually too strong for the electronics, you can get a can of MAF cleaner from autozone (CNC)

It's easier (for testing purposes) to unplug your maf sensors, you don't need them until the engine is warmed up anyway.

If you really doused the engine properly, chances are your coil packs are socked, and/or the spark plug holes and therefore plugs, are swimming with water.

I tried starting the car without the 2 MAF sensors (Left & Right) - I even tried unplugged and plug, and without air filter but the car still sputter and dies....I dunno what else I need to do. It makes me think maybe the MAF (Left & Right) are dried now, similar to the air filters. Perhaps water actually got into the engine block and need to air out either the spark plug & ignition coils?

The night before it worked, however it started sputtering at >2500 RPM, so I was able to cruise back the car home. The next morning it won't even stay running for more than a few seconds.

the VDC and Service Soon indicator stays on. I am able to start the car now, however it sputters at >3000 RPM.

If you were hydrolocked, it wouldn't turn over. Water fills the cylinder and the water will not compress like air will, so the rod bends or/and breaks and exits through the side of the block. If it fired over, it would send a rod through the block and your oil would be all over your floor. Had it happen. It was memorable and expensive. Sounds like you have water in your electronics and you need to get it dried out.

:iagree:



I would suggest to let it idle till it reaches max temp? or 15min? the heat from this will eventually dry out the water residue in the electronic connections that might have been soaked by accident.

It sounds *very* like you've got wet coil packs/water in the plug sockets, if it will run, let it idle for a long time, it will force evaporate the water. Best is to pull them and dry manually, but the above will work.

i was finally able to get the car to start and run without dying guys. However, VDC & Traction control, Service Engine Soon indicator light is on as well as my car is put into Limp Mode is on and Synchro Rev Matching Mode is disabled.

I drove it for a good 30 mins for the oil temp to get unto 200 degrees. Turned it off a couple of times until I was finally able to clear the VDC & Traction Control. My Limp mode was lifted and I can do Synchro Rev Matching and go past 3000 RPM. However, the "Service Engine Soon" light was still on. I turned it off...read the my owners manual, tried un-capping the gas tank cap and re-capped it. Tried starting it again, had a hard time. Then the VDC & Traction Control is back on again.

Any idea what I could do?

You guys mentioned Wet Coil Packs water in plug socket, does that mean I should take out the spark plug to dry out? But I was able to drive the car for more than 30 mins, the engine bay is pretty warm already but I have a feeling something is still wet or something, the car isn't running well, I believe the Emission Control system might be screwy.