interested - awaiting details following tune :tup:

I would like to see the results compared to a M370!!!

Given we have pretty good data now on M370-vs-Stock, it won't be all that hard to compare the new data to the M370 even if the mfg doesn't have an M370 to play with. Based on his preliminary results, I suspect this is going to be a pretty decent intake setup. My main concern at this point is the strut bar stuff. I don't see how you fit a strut bar over that thing, and I'd rather give up these intake gains that give up that strut bar's stiffness (I'm sure most others would make the opposite tradeoff, though, so I'm sure the product will sell).

This is where I stand too. The car comes with a nice triangulated bar from the factory. I don't want to lose that. I'm sure he'll address this issue. It can't be harder than the work he's done so far.

I'd love to, but various priorities is keeping me from doing much with my car for the next 1-2 years. Double income would be nice by now lol. The next major phase short of building the motor is 3' exhaust, new fuel upgrades, and possibly change out the intake manifold.

For the strut bar issue, I am curious if something like this can work well.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7067/7...1591f03b_z.jpg

Was thinking keep the rear part of the triangular bar, cut off the center piece and use a bar like this to wrap around the front. Don't see why there wouldn't be room in front of the manifold for something like this.

As for strength compared to what we currently have, I won't even begin to guess. Most engineering I have ever done is on a phone app. :D

Yeah, the strut bar is my concren too.

I'm in FTW:tup:

Keep us posted when this starts going to production and if you can do a complete write up for install and post it in DIY section.

I'll definately be getting this.

Nuttin new to report as yet? :(

Room to do it this way would not be my concern. A U-shaped bar like that would not be as stiff as the stock 370z brace which runs straight across. That big U is much more flexible out of plane than a straight across brace. You give up more mechanical advantage by not going straight across and would signifficantly reduce the out of plane stiffness unless you increased the thickness of the new brace enough to add back enough flexural and torsional rigidity which is just more weight and less efficient.

yesterday I started the work on the strut bar issue. First of all we cut the horizontal connection as this will definitely never fit due to height.

The connection between strut tower and firewall is a no brainer - nothing changed there. Now we have to weld something strong enough to compensate for the missing direct link which runs in front of the plenum.

here is the link how it looks currently:
http://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.ne...32432380_o.jpg

apart from that I have now driven about 2,000 miles with the new setup without any issues - no CEL, no bad behaviour, no idling issues, no nothing. From the current point of view you can simply change your stock plastic intake manifold to the GTR manifold and will have no issues, worries or need for ECU tuning.

Of course, ECU tuning is highly recommended to take full advantage of the new setup but I think its good news you can install it in your garage, drive the car when you need it daily and do the math whenever you have time to and drive the car to your tuner without worries.

Does the bar have to be on top of the engine bay? Why not under the car?

You want to tie the strut tops together. There's more flex at the top than the bottom since there's a lot more stuff on the underside of the car.

Right, it's a matter of geometry. In many ways the bottom corners are already connected (through the suspension, subframes, crash bar, etc) to each other. The tops, however, can flex around bit as the body twists and rolls. The point of the strut bar is to stiffen the front of the car against that flex/twist.

All things considered though, I don't see how he's going to maintain exactly the stock rigidity with this taller plenum. If it were me, I'd probably go for a compromise between the current hack (remove horizontal bar) and the photo above with the bar angling out to the front. Do a single wide bar like the one in the photo, but angle it around the back tying to the base of the windshield like the small bars do on the stock system. At least then the center of that angled flat bar will be fixated at the center.

Gotcha