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Slow acceleration after intake and exhaust

Originally Posted by henry0844 thanks guys for all your input so far. as to the clamp question, I have worm type at the throttle body and t bolts for the

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Old 11-10-2011, 10:42 PM   #46 (permalink)
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thanks guys for all your input so far. as to the clamp question, I have worm type at the throttle body and t bolts for the rest. I have some extra t bolts that Im going to install at the throttle body just to make sure everything is clamped securely. I'm going to look at everything this weekend and see if I can find out if there is a leak somewhere. about the idle, it seems to idle smoothly but sometimes idles a little rough. the thing I notice the most is when the car is warmed up and idling the revs will drop a little then go back to normal. idle doesn't bounce around but drops slightly then goes back to normal. it's also not the fan kicking on either because the fan doesn't come on when the revs drop. hope this makes sense.
hmmmm.... I haven't been around my car while it was warmed up and idling to see if it does this, so i'm not sure about it.... i'm to cheap with gas lol. It's always possible though. How many miles are on the set-up since everything was installed?

There is also the chance the mechanic damaged the MAF sensor when doing the install. Not like most people are going to be honest and pay 200 or however much those things are to replace it.
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Old 11-10-2011, 10:44 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Don't forget to check all those dumb little things like that the MAF is plugged back in and such... any other wire you see, follow it, check it for breaks, burns, obviously being unplugged, etc etc.
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Old 11-10-2011, 11:53 PM   #48 (permalink)
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hmmmm.... I haven't been around my car while it was warmed up and idling to see if it does this, so i'm not sure about it.... i'm to cheap with gas lol. It's always possible though. How many miles are on the set-up since everything was installed?

There is also the chance the mechanic damaged the MAF sensor when doing the install. Not like most people are going to be honest and pay 200 or however much those things are to replace it.
2000 miles on g3's, 500 with both g3's and exhaust. like I stated before, car ran great then overnight took a **** on me. hasn't run well since.
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Old 11-11-2011, 12:39 AM   #49 (permalink)
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2000 miles on g3's, 500 with both g3's and exhaust. like I stated before, car ran great then overnight took a **** on me. hasn't run well since.
Yeah, that's so odd. I really think the issue will wind up being a MAF sensor going bad or something along that line, but hopefully not.
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Old 11-11-2011, 02:39 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Yeah, that's so odd. I really think the issue will wind up being a MAF sensor going bad or something along that line, but hopefully not.
that would be ok with me. I just don't want my problem to b a mechanical one where it's going to need warranty work.
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Old 11-11-2011, 11:57 AM   #51 (permalink)
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My G3's don't move around a lot. The right side intake is really secure and the left has a little more play. I used a dremel to route out the stock holes so that intake pipe could fit through. If they took out the stock plastic pieces and put your intake pipes in I could see them having a ton of play. That's weird though that you had them installed at Stillen and they deviated from their own instruction manual on how to do the install. Hmmmm...
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Old 11-11-2011, 02:45 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Shouldn't happen. If anything you should feel a difference after putting the intakes in.
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Old 11-11-2011, 09:56 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Shouldn't happen. If anything you should feel a difference after putting the intakes in.
you think a tune is what I need? I'm going to look over everything tonight and try to find anything that could b out of the norm. I just want my z running tip top, I love my car.
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Old 11-11-2011, 10:53 PM   #54 (permalink)
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you think a tune is what I need? I'm going to look over everything tonight and try to find anything that could b out of the norm. I just want my z running tip top, I love my car.
The tune would be needed after a while, but there is no reason why the car would not run much better with an intake and exhaust even without a tune.
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Old 11-12-2011, 12:49 AM   #55 (permalink)
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The tune would be needed after a while, but there is no reason why the car would not run much better with an intake and exhaust even without a tune.
agreed
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Old 11-14-2011, 06:30 PM   #56 (permalink)
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well, I fiddled with the intake clamps and found a couple that didn't look like they were tight enough around the throttle body. so I tightened them up and moved them to get a better seal around the piping. car seems to b driving quite a bit better. I will reserve judgment until I put a few more miles on her but this may have been the problem all along. so anyone having similar issues this may b your problem.
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:06 PM   #57 (permalink)
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well, I fiddled with the intake clamps and found a couple that didn't look like they were tight enough around the throttle body. so I tightened them up and moved them to get a better seal around the piping. car seems to b driving quite a bit better. I will reserve judgment until I put a few more miles on her but this may have been the problem all along. so anyone having similar issues this may b your problem.
I thought you had tightened them more already?
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:32 PM   #58 (permalink)
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I thought you had tightened them more already?
I tightened the other clamps near the maf sensor. I was waiting til the weekend to mess with the other clamps and replace them with the spare tbolts I had.
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Old 11-14-2011, 08:04 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Another way you can check for vacuum leaks in the intake tract (PCV hoses, etc, aside from the main intake tubes and throttle bodies) is to spray something volatile like starting fluid nearby the suspected connection with the engine running. If there's a vacuum leak the engine will suck in a bit of the aerosol starting fluid and you'll hear the idle speed change from the mixture change. Just be careful about how much you spray, hot metal surfaces, etc. You should have a fire extinguisher on hand in your garage anyways
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Old 11-14-2011, 09:25 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Another way you can check for vacuum leaks in the intake tract (PCV hoses, etc, aside from the main intake tubes and throttle bodies) is to spray something volatile like starting fluid nearby the suspected connection with the engine running. If there's a vacuum leak the engine will suck in a bit of the aerosol starting fluid and you'll hear the idle speed change from the mixture change. Just be careful about how much you spray, hot metal surfaces, etc. You should have a fire extinguisher on hand in your garage anyways
^^ the next step if the car keeps running strange. thanks for the heads up
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