Slow acceleration after intake and exhaust

henry0844 · 11-09-2011, 01:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Methodical4u

I would imagine that unless they have some sort of mount somewhere that they would move at least some. If it's just the silicone that is holding the pipe in place then that would cause a lot more movement. Did you look over the DIY on the install on here and see if there are any other areas that secure the intake?

It's possible that it's like that to allow for engine movement when under load too.

as a matter of fact I did look over ak370's write up his g3 DIY. I noticed that the area where u r supposed to dremel out the vent for the stock intake is not even there any more. the whole plastic piece is gone. this piece of plastic is supposed to be dremeled out just big enough to fit the intake pipes through. I would figure that this is the only support for the piping and would sufficiently hold everything in place. as my intake stands now it has no support and are just basically dangling in the front bumper.

henry0844 · 11-09-2011, 01:27 AM

I'm a little disappointed in the install by the Stillen mechanic at this point, seems he took a shortcut and never dremeled out this part and just took it out all together

harry370z · 11-09-2011, 01:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MBLAQ

well the acceleration feels heavier. but around 4k rpm it climbs faster, i can feel that. The sound how ever, doesnt seem very responsive? mmm thats how i would describe it, especially second gear (changing from 3k-3.5k in first to second) when i floor it, it just feels more 'heavy'.

The sensors on the Gen3, does it matter which way it goes in?

i do know the y pipe is 2.75inch, and rest is 2.5inch.

btw, how can i get it tuned? i am in australia. take it to dealer?

Where abouts in Austarlia are you?

Try mark at MRCDyno (castle hill)

Join zclub.com.au as well!

Jordo! · 11-09-2011, 04:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by henry0844

I'm a little disappointed in the install by the Stillen mechanic at this point, seems he took a shortcut and never dremeled out this part and just took it out all together

That could very well be the problem. The MAF sensors do NOT like to be moved around -- they are VERY sensitive to airflow tumble.

Shouldn't be too hard to have some brackets made up to hold it in place. Alternatively, order the parts that were removed from Nissan (or see if the shop still has them lying around) and then have them cut to use as supports.

I'd take care of that before getting the tune -- the tune won't help if the ECU's getting erratic MAF signals.

henry0844 · 11-09-2011, 07:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordo!

That could very well be the problem. The MAF sensors do NOT like to be moved around -- they are VERY sensitive to airflow tumble.

Shouldn't be too hard to have some brackets made up to hold it in place. Alternatively, order the parts that were removed from Nissan (or see if the shop still has them lying around) and then have them cut to use as supports.

I'd take care of that before getting the tune -- the tune won't help if the ECU's getting erratic MAF signals.

thanks for the advice, I will definantly check into that. ill probably have that all checked before it goes in for a tune. thanks

roplusbee · 11-09-2011, 08:44 AM

That is an interesting turn of events. Hopefully you can get that squared away without putting out any more cash........

henry0844 · 11-09-2011, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roplusbee

That is an interesting turn of events. Hopefully you can get that squared away without putting out any more cash........

we'll see.... I'll post after all is said and done to let yall know what the verdict is. hopefully it will help anyone else who has this problem.

Methodical4u · 11-09-2011, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by henry0844

we'll see.... I'll post after all is said and done to let yall know what the verdict is. hopefully it will help anyone else who has this problem.

If he did take them out completely, then you could just get some sort of rubber mat type of stuff and wrap it around the pipe until it fits securely... if not that then maybe some kind of hose cover.

henry0844 · 11-09-2011, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Methodical4u

If he did take them out completely, then you could just get some sort of rubber mat type of stuff and wrap it around the pipe until it fits securely... if not that then maybe some kind of hose cover.

those r both good ideas. I'm going to try and see if I can get them secured better to try to limit movement. I'm also going to get the exhaust bolts checked to see if any of them have loosened enough to cause a small leak near the primary o2 as jordo suggested. I just don't undertsand how my car can run beautifully for 2000 miles after my exhaust install then fall flat on its face overnight.

Methodical4u · 11-09-2011, 11:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by henry0844

those r both good ideas. I'm going to try and see if I can get them secured better to try to limit movement. I'm also going to get the exhaust bolts checked to see if any of them have loosened enough to cause a small leak near the primary o2 as jordo suggested. I just don't undertsand how my car can run beautifully for 2000 miles after my exhaust install then fall flat on its face overnight.

It's frustrating when it comes to modding, and also when your car doesn't run the right way. Luckily these are actually pretty mild mods and likely is an easy fix that is probably something simple. Just try to relax... you'll get it straight.

Jordo! · 11-10-2011, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by henry0844

those r both good ideas. I'm going to try and see if I can get them secured better to try to limit movement. I'm also going to get the exhaust bolts checked to see if any of them have loosened enough to cause a small leak near the primary o2 as jordo suggested. I just don't undertsand how my car can run beautifully for 2000 miles after my exhaust install then fall flat on its face overnight.

It's entirely possible that the intakes were more firmly secured at one point and then loosend up a bit resulting in more movement than there had been initially. Likewise, something could have flown up and damaged the exhaust.

On that note, any pending codes? You might want to see if autozone can scan the ECU for you (or pick one up).

Methodical4u · 11-10-2011, 04:31 PM

It's strange... i'm interested myself in finding out what it winds up being. OP, have you attempted to snug any of the exhaust bolts down yourself or clamped down the intake pipes a little more? Is there any sort of rough idle that might give the indication of a vaccum leak? If you have a friend that can get in the car and rev it a little bit, you can mix some water and a little dawn in a spray bottle and spray all around all the areas where things are clamped and see if there are any bubbles that come from any of those areas... you can also do the same with your vac lines, it could be maybe something small like maybe even a cut in the vac line or silicone tube for that matter.

Methodical4u · 11-10-2011, 04:34 PM

some people will use a starter fluid around those areas sometimes too, if you hear the engine suddenly rev up a little bit under idle, you likely have found your leak. It's been a while since I did any of that stuff though.

One other question... are the pipes on with a worm type clamp or T-bolt clamp?

henry0844 · 11-10-2011, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Methodical4u

some people will use a starter fluid around those areas sometimes too, if you hear the engine suddenly rev up a little bit under idle, you likely have found your leak. It's been a while since I did any of that stuff though.

One other question... are the pipes on with a worm type clamp or T-bolt clamp?

thanks guys for all your input so far. as to the clamp question, I have worm type at the throttle body and t bolts for the rest. I have some extra t bolts that Im going to install at the throttle body just to make sure everything is clamped securely. I'm going to look at everything this weekend and see if I can find out if there is a leak somewhere. about the idle, it seems to idle smoothly but sometimes idles a little rough. the thing I notice the most is when the car is warmed up and idling the revs will drop a little then go back to normal. idle doesn't bounce around but drops slightly then goes back to normal. it's also not the fan kicking on either because the fan doesn't come on when the revs drop. hope this makes sense.

Footloose301 · 11-10-2011, 08:31 PM

I removed both of those pieces of plastic on both of my 370's and never had issues with the MAF.

11-09-2011, 08:44 AM	#36 (permalink)
roplusbee A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Killeen, TX Posts: 2,360 Drives: 2007 350Z NISMO Rep Power: 23	That is an interesting turn of events. Hopefully you can get that squared away without putting out any more cash........ __________________ 2007 350Z NISMO #0618: Zerolift \| UPREV \| F.I. \| Greddy \| Competition Clutch \| Injector Dynamics \| Aeromotive \| Pioneer \| JL

11-10-2011, 08:31 PM	#45 (permalink)
Footloose301 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Naples, FL Posts: 2,659 Drives: 40th Rep Power: 21	I removed both of those pieces of plastic on both of my 370's and never had issues with the MAF. __________________ 2010 40th Anniversary 370Z

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11-09-2011, 01:27 AM	#32 (permalink)
henry0844 Base Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: ventura Posts: 167 Drives: 10 370 base sprt pkg Rep Power: 15	I'm a little disappointed in the install by the Stillen mechanic at this point, seems he took a shortcut and never dremeled out this part and just took it out all together

11-10-2011, 04:31 PM	#42 (permalink)
Methodical4u A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Maryland Posts: 1,393 Drives: 11 370 6mt pw w/sp Rep Power: 16	It's strange... i'm interested myself in finding out what it winds up being. OP, have you attempted to snug any of the exhaust bolts down yourself or clamped down the intake pipes a little more? Is there any sort of rough idle that might give the indication of a vaccum leak? If you have a friend that can get in the car and rev it a little bit, you can mix some water and a little dawn in a spray bottle and spray all around all the areas where things are clamped and see if there are any bubbles that come from any of those areas... you can also do the same with your vac lines, it could be maybe something small like maybe even a cut in the vac line or silicone tube for that matter.

11-10-2011, 04:34 PM	#43 (permalink)
Methodical4u A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Maryland Posts: 1,393 Drives: 11 370 6mt pw w/sp Rep Power: 16	some people will use a starter fluid around those areas sometimes too, if you hear the engine suddenly rev up a little bit under idle, you likely have found your leak. It's been a while since I did any of that stuff though. One other question... are the pipes on with a worm type clamp or T-bolt clamp?