Trying to go it alone, and haven't had much success. The main problem I have right now is a nut that connects the Y pipe to the last section of
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05-12-2009, 12:17 AM | #1 (permalink) |
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BERK HFC's install complete!
Trying to go it alone, and haven't had much success. The main problem I have right now is a nut that connects the Y pipe to the last section of the exhaust. I got the nut on the driver's side off, but haven't been able to get the passenger side nut off. With all my different methods of trying (sockets & wrenches), I've managed to round over the nut, now I can't get a grip on it at all.
Any suggestions? I have managed to remove all other bolts on the Y pipe, all bolts on the support brace, loosened the o2 sensors, and even removed 1 bolt connecting the header to the cat on the passenger side (none on the driver side as of yet). Luckily for me this isn't my daily driver so I can leave it on the jack stands for a few days. Anyone near memphis wanna finish the job? LOL.
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13.369 @ 102.73 Bone Stock. BERK HFC's installed 5/14/09 @ 1490miles, 13.212 @ 106.15. Cobb Post MAF Hoses installed 3/20/10 @ 5,043miles, future: FI exhaust with 18" res and s/s cans. Last edited by ZforMe; 05-14-2009 at 10:25 PM. |
05-12-2009, 12:20 AM | #2 (permalink) |
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make sure to lube up the nut real nice. also, if its rounded ( it is a 14mm) get a 13mm, and beat it on the nut with a hammer, and that should give you another go around. i didnt have any trouble, except i used a 3/8" drive first, and snapped it in half! 1/2 inch did the job.
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05-12-2009, 12:45 AM | #3 (permalink) |
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If you're having trouble at the rear of the Y-pipe, you're in for a real treat on the upper side of the cats. There's one bolt on each one facing the 'wrong' way that has to be broken from the top (engine bay) side with a long set of extensions. Use lots of penetrant (WD-40 or whatever your favorite is), let it soak in good.
As for the one you're having trouble with on the rear of the Y-pipe: Impact can help break a bolt loose too. If you don't have an impact wrench, get the socket or wrench on there solidly and then hit the wrench with a hammer. Or attach a cheater pipe (length of pipe, like a jack handle or something, that slips over wrench to give you more leverage). |
05-12-2009, 12:55 AM | #4 (permalink) |
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Thats a weird bolt to be on that tight. Anyways, your local auto parts store will probably have something like this that removes rounded off nuts...
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05-12-2009, 07:32 AM | #6 (permalink) |
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I've done a few of these installs on a 350z, wstar hit the nail on the head.
swivel socket helps too. looks like this:
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05-12-2009, 11:01 AM | #7 (permalink) |
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Dude I just installed mine with 2 friends. If you are having a hard time I think you should save yourself the aggravation and take it to a shop. One of the top bolts on each side is a nightmare to get off. Take a lot of extensions, breaker bar, and a friend under the car to guide the tool onto the nut. Please be careful.
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05-12-2009, 11:58 AM | #8 (permalink) |
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I hear everyone on the top bolt nightmares, but I guess I didn't specify above that I've already removed one of these bolts from the top (I have the frankentool all set up per the DIY, 1/2 inch all the way), true it was on the passenger side and it was the one that looks like a nut rather than a bolt head.
I'm actually less concerned about these than I am the ones that need to be addressed from the bottom. Also, the nut on the Y-pipe I'm having problems with is semi-blocked by a brace that runs accross the bottom of the car. This brace is preventing me from getting a deeper socket on and still have leverage to break it. Gonna get my dad involved tonight, he's got a little more meat on his bones, oh yeah and he was a mechanic for like 20 years.
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13.369 @ 102.73 Bone Stock. BERK HFC's installed 5/14/09 @ 1490miles, 13.212 @ 106.15. Cobb Post MAF Hoses installed 3/20/10 @ 5,043miles, future: FI exhaust with 18" res and s/s cans. |
05-13-2009, 01:12 AM | #11 (permalink) |
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The damaged nut extractors have worked wonders for me before. For those top bolts I've gotten the cats out every time. Broken a few tools and the heads off a few bolts, but they've always come out with some cursing and praying. Just remember the cardinal rule.... NO IMPACT TOOLS on the top bolts.
Call us if you need a walk through on any of the steps......
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05-14-2009, 12:00 AM | #12 (permalink) |
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The good news:
BERK HFC's are solidly connected to my headers. The bad news: Every muscle in my body hurts and I couldn't complete the job. Only small items left: connect bracket to transmission and HFC's, connect HFC's to Y pipe, put one nut back on Y pipe (never even tried to get the rounded one off since I was able to remove the cats without removing the Y pipe). One question: Do I need to remove the brace bolts from the old cats to connect the brace to the new cats? If so, how? If not, what do I use?
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13.369 @ 102.73 Bone Stock. BERK HFC's installed 5/14/09 @ 1490miles, 13.212 @ 106.15. Cobb Post MAF Hoses installed 3/20/10 @ 5,043miles, future: FI exhaust with 18" res and s/s cans. |
05-14-2009, 12:16 AM | #13 (permalink) | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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05-14-2009, 12:24 AM | #14 (permalink) |
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Here's the bolt in question, I guess i have to bend the tab up to remove the bolt with the goofy head.
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13.369 @ 102.73 Bone Stock. BERK HFC's installed 5/14/09 @ 1490miles, 13.212 @ 106.15. Cobb Post MAF Hoses installed 3/20/10 @ 5,043miles, future: FI exhaust with 18" res and s/s cans. |
05-14-2009, 12:34 AM | #15 (permalink) |
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Is that really the head of the bolt, or just a giant funny square washer. It's been a couple months since I did mine, so I could just be forgetful, but I don't remember anything like that.
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