BERK HFC's install not going so great.

ZforMe · 05-14-2009, 12:54 AM

That is the definately the head. I may just take the 4 bolts i have left for the hfc to y pipe connection to a home depot and match them.

BerkTech · 05-14-2009, 01:30 PM

Zforme - that goofy bolt will stay there. You'll use one of ours to mount that "wing" brace to the cats. If you didn't break those top bolt on the header/HFC flange, you can use that one as well. They are the same thread.

Just for reference, the bolts sizes you would be looking for are M10x1.25 x 35mm long. If they don't have metric then a 3/8" x 1.5" long bolt/nut combo would work as well.

Musashi · 05-14-2009, 03:53 PM

how's it going? where you able to complete the install?

ZforMe · 05-14-2009, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Musashi

how's it going? where you able to complete the install?

See page 2. LOL. Will be 100% done when i get off work tonight and spend 15 minutes under the car.

ZforMe · 05-14-2009, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BerkTech

Zforme - that goofy bolt will stay there. You'll use one of ours to mount that "wing" brace to the cats. If you didn't break those top bolt on the header/HFC flange, you can use that one as well. They are the same thread.

Just for reference, the bolts sizes you would be looking for are M10x1.25 x 35mm long. If they don't have metric then a 3/8" x 1.5" long bolt/nut combo would work as well.

I ended up using the top bolts from the header/hfc flange, worked like a charm, THANKS!

Everything went smooth tonight. Drove a couple miles. I like it, not sure the GF will be thrilled, but that's to be expected.

Is there a typical break in period for these? I plan to go to the 1/4 mile track Tuesday. Should I have a certain amount of miles on them before I go race?

Also, this ties in with the previous question, how long till the ecu "learns" and gives me my best performance?

semtex · 05-15-2009, 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZforMe

I ended up using the top bolts from the header/hfc flange, worked like a charm, THANKS!

Everything went smooth tonight. Drove a couple miles. I like it, not sure the GF will be thrilled, but that's to be expected.

Is there a typical break in period for these? I plan to go to the 1/4 mile track Tuesday. Should I have a certain amount of miles on them before I go race?

Also, this ties in with the previous question, how long till the ecu "learns" and gives me my best performance?

Did you disconnect/reconnect your battery?

ZforMe · 05-15-2009, 09:31 AM

I have not.

semtex · 05-15-2009, 09:40 AM

Well, if you want your ECU to adapt quickly, you should. Disconnect it, stomp on the brakes a few times, then reconnect it. Tip: I have all my settings written down on a piece of paper (e.g., radio presets, rpm setting for shift light, etc.) to make it easier to set everything back afterwards. You'll most likely also need to reset your windows (see owner's manual). After you do this, drive it around for a few days, taking care to do a mix of normal and hard driving, and you should be good to go. The more you drive, the more it learns.

scorpion90 · 05-15-2009, 10:18 AM

I bought a set of Berk HFC's along with an Invidia Q300 catbacks and a JDW pop charger. Nothing new for folks here, but I did buy an OBDCOM to hook to my computer and car so I can measure my mass air flow and a few engine performance items as I add the mods to the car. I want to see if I can detect a change in the sensors measurements as the mods go on plus I can check and get rid of cel's if they pop up. A little different approach than I've read so far.

BerkTech · 05-26-2009, 02:44 PM

Great approach! keep us in the loop with your findings

Quote:

Originally Posted by scorpion90

I bought a set of Berk HFC's along with an Invidia Q300 catbacks and a JDW pop charger. Nothing new for folks here, but I did buy an OBDCOM to hook to my computer and car so I can measure my mass air flow and a few engine performance items as I add the mods to the car. I want to see if I can detect a change in the sensors measurements as the mods go on plus I can check and get rid of cel's if they pop up. A little different approach than I've read so far.

05-14-2009, 12:54 AM	#16 (permalink)
ZforMe Base Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Memphis TN Posts: 238 Drives: 370Z Sport Auto PG Rep Power: 16	That is the definately the head. I may just take the 4 bolts i have left for the hfc to y pipe connection to a home depot and match them. __________________ 13.369 @ 102.73 Bone Stock. BERK HFC's installed 5/14/09 @ 1490miles, 13.212 @ 106.15. Cobb Post MAF Hoses installed 3/20/10 @ 5,043miles, future: FI exhaust with 18" res and s/s cans.

05-14-2009, 01:30 PM	#17 (permalink)
BerkTech The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Irvine CA Posts: 279 Drives: Lots.... Rep Power: 272	Zforme - that goofy bolt will stay there. You'll use one of ours to mount that "wing" brace to the cats. If you didn't break those top bolt on the header/HFC flange, you can use that one as well. They are the same thread. Just for reference, the bolts sizes you would be looking for are M10x1.25 x 35mm long. If they don't have metric then a 3/8" x 1.5" long bolt/nut combo would work as well. __________________ While the others type fast... Berk Technology goes fast.... See you at the track! OUR NEW PHONE NUMBER: (714) 546-BERK READ THE BERK BLOG HERE

05-15-2009, 09:31 AM	#22 (permalink)
ZforMe Base Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Memphis TN Posts: 238 Drives: 370Z Sport Auto PG Rep Power: 16	I have not. __________________ 13.369 @ 102.73 Bone Stock. BERK HFC's installed 5/14/09 @ 1490miles, 13.212 @ 106.15. Cobb Post MAF Hoses installed 3/20/10 @ 5,043miles, future: FI exhaust with 18" res and s/s cans.

05-15-2009, 09:40 AM	#23 (permalink)
semtex A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Behind enemy lines Age: 54 Posts: 5,995 Drives: People to drink Rep Power: 32	Well, if you want your ECU to adapt quickly, you should. Disconnect it, stomp on the brakes a few times, then reconnect it. Tip: I have all my settings written down on a piece of paper (e.g., radio presets, rpm setting for shift light, etc.) to make it easier to set everything back afterwards. You'll most likely also need to reset your windows (see owner's manual). After you do this, drive it around for a few days, taking care to do a mix of normal and hard driving, and you should be good to go. The more you drive, the more it learns. __________________ "There are no small accidents on this circuit." -- Ayrton Senna 316.8whp & 248 ft/lbs (Dyno Dynamics) \| 319whp & 256 ft/lbs (DynoJet) (04/23/10) Stillen G3 CAI, CBE, Pulley / F.I. LTH / GTSpec Ladder Brace / Setrab Oil Cooler / UpRev-tuned by Forged Perf.

05-15-2009, 10:18 AM	#24 (permalink)
scorpion90 Base Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Akron, Ohio Age: 76 Posts: 109 Drives: 370Z Base 7AT+Sports Rep Power: 283	Same Thing...well Almost I bought a set of Berk HFC's along with an Invidia Q300 catbacks and a JDW pop charger. Nothing new for folks here, but I did buy an OBDCOM to hook to my computer and car so I can measure my mass air flow and a few engine performance items as I add the mods to the car. I want to see if I can detect a change in the sensors measurements as the mods go on plus I can check and get rid of cel's if they pop up. A little different approach than I've read so far.

05-14-2009, 03:53 PM	#18 (permalink)
Musashi Enthusiast Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: New Jersey Posts: 357 Drives: 09 370Z 6speed Rep Power: 606	how's it going? where you able to complete the install?

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