100hp / Liter
 

Hi Guys
Pretty straight forward question...

What does it take to make 370hp (crank) out of the 3.7L VQ?

I guess thats around 330rwhp dynojet (correct me if im wrong?)

I'm thinking along the lines:

Sport cats
Catback
Intake
Tune

or am I way off the mark??

Thanks in advance!

id say test pipes (not HFCs) and the rest plus a really good tune. Maybe throw in the motordyne intake manifold.

but 100hp/liter is ricer math, so i'm not sure why that particular power point is important to you?

I want to know the exact same thing! I am hopeing to get my car to 370HP!

For BHP, I think you're very close in your guess. But for WHP, you're a bit high. IMHO, WHP would be around the high 290's or low 300's.

AND, here's the caveat.... It really depends upon the Dyno being used.

You would need to do full bolt ons to get close or reach that target. Stillen G3 intakes, HFCs or test pipes, a tune, and a cat-back exhaust will get you to that mark.

:iagree:But I think that's what he mentioned above.

Your only going to make 315-330ish to the wheels with the current mods they have for this car. I made 339 with the mods I have. High or not you can see how 370 is never going to happen unless they make more aftermarket parts (Cams, Intake Manifold, Valve Train mods) Crap like that. Parts that wont be your normal bolt-on

He's saying 370 at the crank, not the wheels.

370hp 370z has a ring to it...

So the shopping list looks a little like:

Stillen Intakes
F.I. sport cats and exhaust
Uprev Software (Are there any alternatives?)

also whats the state of play with aftermarket headers for the Z, I can only find two vendors.

I get the impression that the stock intake manifold and throttles aren't much of a bottle-neck?

Well if you want to run Cats you would have to go with Stillen's Shorty headers which from what I hear do nothing since the stock Exhaust Manifold is not restrictive. Your other option is Long Tube Headers by Fast Intentions. But for the price of them and the install price I dont think the small gains are worth it over test pipes.

I guess it varies from state to state, but in general do you guys have to pass an emissons test?

Can you get though on test pipes or do you swap the cat converters back?

If you do test pipes there is always going to be that risk that your gonna get a CEL. And if you have a CEL you can not pass an inspection. But lucky for us the UpRev tune can get rid of the CEL and keep it off. I have had Test Pipes on my Z for over a year and I have never thrown a code because of the UpRev tune. As for passing an inspection with no cats, you should and could fail a visual since you have no cats, but unless your at a shop that is really anal all there gonna to is plug your Z in and see that there is no CEL and there has not been one and you will pass (Im from NY)

Thanks red :tiphat:

I think I'll run cats on the Z, as I have a test pipe on my civic and that stinks of gas even after custom tune, plus the exhaust goes: :vuvuzela:

No prob. Yea with the Test Pipes your gonna get the smell but I kind of like it LOL. Test pipes wont make your car sound bad or nothing like that your just gonna have more Rasp.

Will your MOT fail?

The Civic is pretty heavily tuned, but luckily I know an 'easy going garage' for the MOT

On the average, about 307-310 to the tire on a dynojet should be in that ball park at the crank, but really short of removing the motor and placing on an engine dyno, it's an educated guess at best.

On a dynojet, full bolt-ons' plus tune will get you in that ball park, give or take transient factors like intake temps and correction factor. You may exceed it with pulleys (IMO, not recommended) and long tube headers (big job).

Other kinds of dynamometers typically have numerous settings that can be adjusted, so depending on how they are calibrated, it's hard to say. Dynojets are generally very, very consistent from one to the other, where correction factor is only major X factor.

But really, that specific output per liter isn't anything special. You can build N/A motors that will exceed it, and with forced induction go well beyond it.

My two local dyno's are a MAHA and a Dyna-Pack

TBH I dont really care what the headline number is so long as its 40hp above the base line - job done

Pick one, get a baseline, work out the change from the claimed 332 bhp, add bolt-on's and see what you gain :tup:

Is MAHA a rolling road? Never heard of it.

Just get twin turbo's and leave the 370hp figure in the dust. At the end of the day, 370 is just a thoeretical number in your head since you can't get an accurate number @ the crank without pulling the engine off the chassis. Full bolt-on's and an UpRev tune can def get you close to that number considering its theoretically just a 38hp increase. If the claims are anywhere near true, just the Stillen Gen 3's and Stillen CBE is "suppose" to net 35.5hp @ the wheels. Which would translate to a few more at the crank.

Its a TAT sun dyno with maha rollers in truth.

Hmm. Must be a kind of roling road then. If it's load holding the numbers you make will have a lot to do with how they have it calibrated for your car.

You should get a whp and estimate for bhp based on coast down. be interesting to see what you make stock and modded.

The 100hp/liter is a performance goal for the industry for high performance cars.

Correct, It uses inertia run down mode to work out a drive loss figure, and DIN or SAE correction for environmental factors.

The crank figures this dyno gives are supprisingly accurate.

After i've paid for a new kitchen roof, the Z is gunna get tuned up :icon17:

Cool -- keep us posted! :tup:

Gen 3 intakes, headers and testpipe or Long tube headers and a really good exhaust system. The tune will clean it up after the upgrades.

Ive read in the past that the difference from WHP to Crank HP is about 15%. So i would think that if you dyno at 315 whp, that would be around the 370 crank HP.. of course as mentioned all dynos are different and a Dynojet will read higher than Mustang dynos as well, so who knows if it is ever accurate. But then again, how do they agree upon the 370z have 331 hp in the first place??

Not necessisarily... all depends how they calibrate it. They can "break hearts" or "lift spirits" depending on the settings.

Presumably, on an engine dyno.

Then we might wonder whether they're claiming ps units (probably) or hp units, which is a bit different (ps units are a few % lower).

Then again, there's usually additional fudge factors either to round up (selling point) or under rate (happier customers when they go to chassis dynos) that are applied behind the scenes.

Only way to really know is to break-in the motor, make sure all is good, remove it and put it on an engine dyno.

Oh, and it's allegedly 332 bhp :p

I came up with this a while back, which kind of gives you a ballpark figure comparing engine hp vs rwhp.

Basically need at least 3 known variables.
1.A baseline engine (assuming 332hp)
2.A baseline @ the wheels on a rolling dyno (stock)
3.A final number @ the wheels on a rolling dyno (with all bolt-on mods, etc.)

370 at the crank wouldn't be nearly as hard... now 370 at the wheels? That's a little different story.

by crank i am assuming the OP means bhp? if this is the case then making 370 base hp is very obtainable. IF the dyno you were using was infact accurate not just a way to measure increase after mods i would say 315 whp is all you need. Last time i checked a normal drivetrain loss was 15-18% maybe that has changed in newer verhicles but 315 whp would put you between 370-385 bhp

whoops :tup: lol. Anyway, from what ive heard there is a 15% loss from whp to crank. so 370 crank hp i dont see too hard to get to... I mean, if the nismo has 350 stock, and you add the standard bolt ons, i would think it would be over this mark. (This is not a nismo vs .... thread. I just used the nismo cuz it is closer to the 370 hp mark...)

True, although your gains with the same bolt-on's on a Nismo will be less. Switching over to a Stillen CBE on a Nismo for example, won't gain you another 18rwhp over a stock Nismo. For the most part, the Nismo just has a better flowing exhaust and engine tuning.

Yes, i agree. But i have also been told that the nismo exhaust only accounts for 5 hp of the 18, the rest being the tune, so back out 5 HP from the equation...

Yes, but is that 5hp rwhp or @ the crank? not that it really matters.

Long tube intakes, headers, test pipes, and a cat-back exhaust will put you at around 305whp-315whp on our DD dyno. If you reeeeeeally want the 370whp ... here's your answer ;)

http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ne-review.html

The Z is staying all motor, I do alot of miles in her so gas milage cannot suffer.

Intake, cats, exhaust and tune is as far as it will go.

If I dont make 370hp, I wont lose any sleep... I just wanted to know if that was realistic with bolt-ons.

I/H/E high octane fuel (100+), aggressive tune, nst pulley set and you should get 370 crank....

Stillen g3
Straight true dual exhaust
headers 4-2-1 or 4-1
Tp's
nst pulley set
100+ octane
aggressive tune
flywheel

^^^ do this or go with a SC up to you.

It does, whp is what your actually using (wheel horse power)

Thought it was Whp but was a little while since that convo, either way, if it was 15% of 5 isnt much, +/- 0.75 hp.. and yes your right, doesnt really matter lol