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100hp / Liter

by crank i am assuming the OP means bhp? if this is the case then making 370 base hp is very obtainable. IF the dyno you were using was infact

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Old 10-20-2011, 04:21 PM   #31 (permalink)
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by crank i am assuming the OP means bhp? if this is the case then making 370 base hp is very obtainable. IF the dyno you were using was infact accurate not just a way to measure increase after mods i would say 315 whp is all you need. Last time i checked a normal drivetrain loss was 15-18% maybe that has changed in newer verhicles but 315 whp would put you between 370-385 bhp
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:24 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordo! View Post
Not necessisarily... all depends how they calibrate it. They can "break hearts" or "lift spirits" depending on the settings.


Presumably, on an engine dyno.

Then we might wonder whether they're claiming ps units (probably) or hp units, which is a bit different (ps units are a few % lower).

Then again, there's usually additional fudge factors either to round up (selling point) or under rate (happier customers when they go to chassis dynos) that are applied behind the scenes.

Only way to really know is to break-in the motor, make sure all is good, remove it and put it on an engine dyno.

Oh, and it's allegedly 332 bhp
whoops lol. Anyway, from what ive heard there is a 15% loss from whp to crank. so 370 crank hp i dont see too hard to get to... I mean, if the nismo has 350 stock, and you add the standard bolt ons, i would think it would be over this mark. (This is not a nismo vs .... thread. I just used the nismo cuz it is closer to the 370 hp mark...)
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:54 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Pelican170 View Post
whoops lol. Anyway, from what ive heard there is a 15% loss from whp to crank. so 370 crank hp i dont see too hard to get to... I mean, if the nismo has 350 stock, and you add the standard bolt ons, i would think it would be over this mark. (This is not a nismo vs .... thread. I just used the nismo cuz it is closer to the 370 hp mark...)
True, although your gains with the same bolt-on's on a Nismo will be less. Switching over to a Stillen CBE on a Nismo for example, won't gain you another 18rwhp over a stock Nismo. For the most part, the Nismo just has a better flowing exhaust and engine tuning.
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:59 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmike2780 View Post
True, although your gains with the same bolt-on's on a Nismo will be less. Switching over to a Stillen CBE on a Nismo for example, won't gain you another 18rwhp over a stock Nismo. For the most part, the Nismo just has a better flowing exhaust and engine tuning.
Yes, i agree. But i have also been told that the nismo exhaust only accounts for 5 hp of the 18, the rest being the tune, so back out 5 HP from the equation...
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Old 10-20-2011, 05:02 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Pelican170 View Post
Yes, i agree. But i have also been told that the nismo exhaust only accounts for 5 hp of the 18, the rest being the tune, so back out 5 HP from the equation...
Yes, but is that 5hp rwhp or @ the crank? not that it really matters.
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Old 10-20-2011, 06:38 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Long tube intakes, headers, test pipes, and a cat-back exhaust will put you at around 305whp-315whp on our DD dyno. If you reeeeeeally want the 370whp ... here's your answer

Forged Performance: Stillen SC Custom Tune and Review
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Old 10-21-2011, 07:14 AM   #37 (permalink)
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The Z is staying all motor, I do alot of miles in her so gas milage cannot suffer.

Intake, cats, exhaust and tune is as far as it will go.

If I dont make 370hp, I wont lose any sleep... I just wanted to know if that was realistic with bolt-ons.
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Old 10-21-2011, 07:58 AM   #38 (permalink)
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I/H/E high octane fuel (100+), aggressive tune, nst pulley set and you should get 370 crank....

Stillen g3
Straight true dual exhaust
headers 4-2-1 or 4-1
Tp's
nst pulley set
100+ octane
aggressive tune
flywheel

^^^ do this or go with a SC up to you.
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Old 10-21-2011, 08:00 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmike2780 View Post
Yes, but is that 5hp rwhp or @ the crank? not that it really matters.
It does, whp is what your actually using (wheel horse power)
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Old 10-21-2011, 10:25 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmike2780 View Post
Yes, but is that 5hp rwhp or @ the crank? not that it really matters.
Thought it was Whp but was a little while since that convo, either way, if it was 15% of 5 isnt much, +/- 0.75 hp.. and yes your right, doesnt really matter lol
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Old 10-21-2011, 11:54 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Regarding drive train losses, the value one obtains will vary depending on the dyno, but since dynojets are highly consistent from shop to shop, I like to go by them for estimating this stuff...

Based on multiple dynos from at least 9-10 different Z's, with SAE correction, this is what I've found:

Average power for 370Z or G37: 273 +/-5

Average power for Nismo version: 290 +/-5

Drive train losses for both AT and MT appear to be between 16.5% and 17.5%

You get a few outliers here and there; lower values appear to be associated with few miles on engine, suggesting incomplete break-in and compression may go up later on, resulting in higher power figures (unconfirmed).

Higher outliers could reflect everything from weather fluctuations to the ECU being unusually charitable with the max timing it allowed on a given run.

Also, you get some variance due to the gear dynoed in, with slightly higher readings associated with dynos taken in 5th vs. 4th.

Only other major factor is that lots of folks like to report STD corrections, which I find tend to skew optimistically for N/A cars.

Again those values are the average (arithmetic mean) based on a realtively small sample, with more data the numbers may be updated slightly (please send me drf's!!!! ).
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Old 10-21-2011, 01:41 PM   #42 (permalink)
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I thought the correct gear to do it was in 5th for the 1:1 ratio?
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Old 10-21-2011, 11:35 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Pelican170 View Post
I thought the correct gear to do it was in 5th for the 1:1 ratio?
It is, but untuned 7AT's will hit the limiter and need to dyno in 4th, so most drf's from the auto or based on 4th gear runs.

Also, 4th puts less wear on the motor... mine was not very happy going 170 mph on a 98* F 90% humidity day just to try and see 2-3 more lbft of peak torque

Anyway, the difference is really small in output between 4th and 5th -- literally only a few whp/tqs. You can dyno in either just fine, and get accurate and virtually identical values, although technically 5th would be the correct one in terms of gear ratio.
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Old 10-24-2011, 07:04 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Speaking of tunes, can you program in a launch control limiter in the Uprev software?
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:37 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by red6spd View Post
Your only going to make 315-330ish to the wheels with the current mods they have for this car. I made 339 with the mods I have. High or not you can see how 370 is never going to happen unless they make more aftermarket parts (Cams, Intake Manifold, Valve Train mods) Crap like that. Parts that wont be your normal bolt-on
Damn, you're making 339 to the wheels on a mustang dyno in NA form? That's impressive.
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