by crank i am assuming the OP means bhp? if this is the case then making 370 base hp is very obtainable. IF the dyno you were using was infact
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10-20-2011, 04:21 PM | #31 (permalink) |
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by crank i am assuming the OP means bhp? if this is the case then making 370 base hp is very obtainable. IF the dyno you were using was infact accurate not just a way to measure increase after mods i would say 315 whp is all you need. Last time i checked a normal drivetrain loss was 15-18% maybe that has changed in newer verhicles but 315 whp would put you between 370-385 bhp
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10-20-2011, 04:24 PM | #32 (permalink) | |
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10-20-2011, 04:54 PM | #33 (permalink) | |
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10-20-2011, 04:59 PM | #34 (permalink) | |
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10-20-2011, 05:02 PM | #35 (permalink) |
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Yes, but is that 5hp rwhp or @ the crank? not that it really matters.
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10-20-2011, 06:38 PM | #36 (permalink) |
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Long tube intakes, headers, test pipes, and a cat-back exhaust will put you at around 305whp-315whp on our DD dyno. If you reeeeeeally want the 370whp ... here's your answer
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10-21-2011, 07:14 AM | #37 (permalink) |
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The Z is staying all motor, I do alot of miles in her so gas milage cannot suffer.
Intake, cats, exhaust and tune is as far as it will go. If I dont make 370hp, I wont lose any sleep... I just wanted to know if that was realistic with bolt-ons. |
10-21-2011, 07:58 AM | #38 (permalink) |
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I/H/E high octane fuel (100+), aggressive tune, nst pulley set and you should get 370 crank....
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10-21-2011, 10:25 AM | #40 (permalink) |
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Thought it was Whp but was a little while since that convo, either way, if it was 15% of 5 isnt much, +/- 0.75 hp.. and yes your right, doesnt really matter lol
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10-21-2011, 11:54 AM | #41 (permalink) |
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Regarding drive train losses, the value one obtains will vary depending on the dyno, but since dynojets are highly consistent from shop to shop, I like to go by them for estimating this stuff...
Based on multiple dynos from at least 9-10 different Z's, with SAE correction, this is what I've found: Average power for 370Z or G37: 273 +/-5 Average power for Nismo version: 290 +/-5 Drive train losses for both AT and MT appear to be between 16.5% and 17.5% You get a few outliers here and there; lower values appear to be associated with few miles on engine, suggesting incomplete break-in and compression may go up later on, resulting in higher power figures (unconfirmed). Higher outliers could reflect everything from weather fluctuations to the ECU being unusually charitable with the max timing it allowed on a given run. Also, you get some variance due to the gear dynoed in, with slightly higher readings associated with dynos taken in 5th vs. 4th. Only other major factor is that lots of folks like to report STD corrections, which I find tend to skew optimistically for N/A cars. Again those values are the average (arithmetic mean) based on a realtively small sample, with more data the numbers may be updated slightly (please send me drf's!!!! ).
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10-21-2011, 01:41 PM | #42 (permalink) |
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I thought the correct gear to do it was in 5th for the 1:1 ratio?
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10-21-2011, 11:35 PM | #43 (permalink) | |
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Also, 4th puts less wear on the motor... mine was not very happy going 170 mph on a 98* F 90% humidity day just to try and see 2-3 more lbft of peak torque Anyway, the difference is really small in output between 4th and 5th -- literally only a few whp/tqs. You can dyno in either just fine, and get accurate and virtually identical values, although technically 5th would be the correct one in terms of gear ratio.
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10-24-2011, 11:37 AM | #45 (permalink) | |
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