The Civic is pretty heavily tuned, but luckily I know an 'easy going garage' for the MOT

On the average, about 307-310 to the tire on a dynojet should be in that ball park at the crank, but really short of removing the motor and placing on an engine dyno, it's an educated guess at best.

On a dynojet, full bolt-ons' plus tune will get you in that ball park, give or take transient factors like intake temps and correction factor. You may exceed it with pulleys (IMO, not recommended) and long tube headers (big job).

Other kinds of dynamometers typically have numerous settings that can be adjusted, so depending on how they are calibrated, it's hard to say. Dynojets are generally very, very consistent from one to the other, where correction factor is only major X factor.

But really, that specific output per liter isn't anything special. You can build N/A motors that will exceed it, and with forced induction go well beyond it.

My two local dyno's are a MAHA and a Dyna-Pack

TBH I dont really care what the headline number is so long as its 40hp above the base line - job done

Pick one, get a baseline, work out the change from the claimed 332 bhp, add bolt-on's and see what you gain :tup:

Is MAHA a rolling road? Never heard of it.

Just get twin turbo's and leave the 370hp figure in the dust. At the end of the day, 370 is just a thoeretical number in your head since you can't get an accurate number @ the crank without pulling the engine off the chassis. Full bolt-on's and an UpRev tune can def get you close to that number considering its theoretically just a 38hp increase. If the claims are anywhere near true, just the Stillen Gen 3's and Stillen CBE is "suppose" to net 35.5hp @ the wheels. Which would translate to a few more at the crank.

Its a TAT sun dyno with maha rollers in truth.

Hmm. Must be a kind of roling road then. If it's load holding the numbers you make will have a lot to do with how they have it calibrated for your car.

You should get a whp and estimate for bhp based on coast down. be interesting to see what you make stock and modded.

The 100hp/liter is a performance goal for the industry for high performance cars.

Correct, It uses inertia run down mode to work out a drive loss figure, and DIN or SAE correction for environmental factors.

The crank figures this dyno gives are supprisingly accurate.

After i've paid for a new kitchen roof, the Z is gunna get tuned up :icon17:

Cool -- keep us posted! :tup:

Gen 3 intakes, headers and testpipe or Long tube headers and a really good exhaust system. The tune will clean it up after the upgrades.

Ive read in the past that the difference from WHP to Crank HP is about 15%. So i would think that if you dyno at 315 whp, that would be around the 370 crank HP.. of course as mentioned all dynos are different and a Dynojet will read higher than Mustang dynos as well, so who knows if it is ever accurate. But then again, how do they agree upon the 370z have 331 hp in the first place??

Not necessisarily... all depends how they calibrate it. They can "break hearts" or "lift spirits" depending on the settings.

Presumably, on an engine dyno.

Then we might wonder whether they're claiming ps units (probably) or hp units, which is a bit different (ps units are a few % lower).

Then again, there's usually additional fudge factors either to round up (selling point) or under rate (happier customers when they go to chassis dynos) that are applied behind the scenes.

Only way to really know is to break-in the motor, make sure all is good, remove it and put it on an engine dyno.

Oh, and it's allegedly 332 bhp :p

I came up with this a while back, which kind of gives you a ballpark figure comparing engine hp vs rwhp.

Basically need at least 3 known variables.
1.A baseline engine (assuming 332hp)
2.A baseline @ the wheels on a rolling dyno (stock)
3.A final number @ the wheels on a rolling dyno (with all bolt-on mods, etc.)

370 at the crank wouldn't be nearly as hard... now 370 at the wheels? That's a little different story.