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Post Maf Tubes & Drop-ins, worth it??

I ran drop ins with post maf tubes, then switched to g3's. g3's on my car are far superior to the previous setup.

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Old 10-18-2011, 11:46 PM   #31 (permalink)
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I ran drop ins with post maf tubes, then switched to g3's. g3's on my car are far superior to the previous setup.
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Old 10-19-2011, 01:08 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Yes. It's good bang for the buck.

Noise and buttdyno calibration aside, you're looking at really only a few more whp (~4-5) for the G3's over the smooth tubes plus drop-ins based on a number of dyno runfiles that I've reviewed.

That said, I'll have new comparison data soon, so we'll see if it's consistent with what I've found previously or not.
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Old 10-19-2011, 10:13 AM   #33 (permalink)
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well worth it for me, i got a bout 9rwhp with the AFE drop ins and the HPS post mafs
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Old 10-19-2011, 10:40 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GZ3 View Post
well worth it for me, i got a bout 9rwhp with the AFE drop ins and the HPS post mafs
So, you got the same gains as the other guy with the G3's but saved 2-300 dollars. To me, sounds like a no brainer...

To be honest, if you didnt have to take the bumper off, id be more inclined to get the G3's, but if the gains are the same or that close, i just dont see the point myself... Especially after hearing about the G3's heating up alot and stuff. But im sure people will mention down sides of both setups...
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:13 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Pelican170 View Post
So, you got the same gains as the other guy with the G3's but saved 2-300 dollars. To me, sounds like a no brainer...

To be honest, if you didnt have to take the bumper off, id be more inclined to get the G3's, but if the gains are the same or that close, i just dont see the point myself... Especially after hearing about the G3's heating up alot and stuff. But im sure people will mention down sides of both setups...
i did, and i posted a dyno on it...it was about a year ago. the gen3 make a little more, not consistently the cherry picked advertised 18rwhp, but i would say about 12ish



that was my whole thought about taking off the front bumper, some people will say its not a hassle at all, but its not easier than popping two little latches to get the filters out of the box
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:22 AM   #36 (permalink)
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I had drop ins and MAF tubes and unlike everyone else after matching it with long tube headers and a catback I was severely limited due to the setup not getting enough air. Went with long tube intakes from injen at a sick price from a forum member and its been way better since.
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:12 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYBladeZ View Post
I had drop ins and MAF tubes and unlike everyone else after matching it with long tube headers and a catback I was severely limited due to the setup not getting enough air. Went with long tube intakes from injen at a sick price from a forum member and its been way better since.
Do you have a dyno comparison? I am just curious as to what you mean by not getting enough air. I would think that the flow of panel filters vs open conic type would not be such a substantial amount of air flow.

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Old 10-19-2011, 12:15 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Would love to see before and after fuel logs to verify those claims...
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:22 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by NYBladeZ View Post
I had drop ins and MAF tubes and unlike everyone else after matching it with long tube headers and a catback I was severely limited due to the setup not getting enough air. Went with long tube intakes from injen at a sick price from a forum member and its been way better since.
?

the stock air box should be more than capable to handle any amount air the car needs in an NA set up....hmmmm
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Old 10-19-2011, 01:51 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYBladeZ View Post
I had drop ins and MAF tubes and unlike everyone else after matching it with long tube headers and a catback I was severely limited due to the setup not getting enough air. Went with long tube intakes from injen at a sick price from a forum member and its been way better since.
That's seems... unlikely... even with open headers the factory intakes should flow more than enough air.

Did you have a tune? My guess is that fueling and or spark just wasn't optimized for the headers.

Anyway, I was a bit suprirsed at first to find little or no evidence of huge differences between a modified factory intake set-up and cone filters, which are theoretically much more flow friendly, but the difference does indeed seem to be fairly minimal.

The factory airboxes just aren't particularly restrictive (no wacky butterly valves in the way, and already has ducting to the bumper to bring in cooler air), and the plastic pieces do a good job of blocking underhood heat too. Nissan did a good job -- go figure.

Basically, the smoother tubes and less restrictive element flow about as well as the cone filters. The possibly (but unconfirmed to the best of my knowedge) cooler temps that might be achieved with the G3 or a similar CAI design, which may (or may not) have a better location to draw air than the factory ductwork are proably somewhat negated by the fact that metal tubing will also conduct more heat than plastic and silicone.

So, actually, the relatively small addditional gain over modded factory isn't really that surprising if you really think about it...

That said, if you are a serious power junkie and desperately want every last whp , if you can find the G3's for ~$200-$250 used, I think it would be worth it as you spend almost that much on high flow panel filters and tubes, so for a little more cash you get a few more hp.

Brand new, IMO, the price is kinda steep for what you gain in power over the modified factory set-up -- I guess if you really like the sound, one could argue that's another bonus to justify the price...

Oh, on that note, there is some evidence that cone filters that do not draw air from in front of the bumper (i.e., "short rams") appear to lose power over the factory boxes, a least on the basis of a few dynos...

So, cliff notes...

Bang for the buck = high flow filters + silicone smooth tubing.

Money no object, gimmie every last whp -- I live life a 1/4 mile at a time = some sort of CAI (i.e., "long tube") set up.
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Old 10-19-2011, 02:29 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordo! View Post
That's seems... unlikely... even with open headers the factory intakes should flow more than enough air.

Did you have a tune? My guess is that fueling and or spark just wasn't optimized for the headers.

Anyway, I was a bit suprirsed at first to find little or no evidence of huge differences between a modified factory intake set-up and cone filters, which are theoretically much more flow friendly, but the difference does indeed seem to be fairly minimal.

The factory airboxes just aren't particularly restrictive (no wacky butterly valves in the way, and already has ducting to the bumper to bring in cooler air), and the plastic pieces do a good job of blocking underhood heat too. Nissan did a good job -- go figure.

Basically, the smoother tubes and less restrictive element flow about as well as the cone filters. The possibly (but unconfirmed to the best of my knowedge) cooler temps that might be achieved with the G3 or a similar CAI design, which may (or may not) have a better location to draw air than the factory ductwork are proably somewhat negated by the fact that metal tubing will also conduct more heat than plastic and silicone.

So, actually, the relatively small addditional gain over modded factory isn't really that surprising if you really think about it...

That said, if you are a serious power junkie and desperately want every last whp , if you can find the G3's for ~$200-$250 used, I think it would be worth it as you spend almost that much on high flow panel filters and tubes, so for a little more cash you get a few more hp.

Brand new, IMO, the price is kinda steep for what you gain in power over the modified factory set-up -- I guess if you really like the sound, one could argue that's another bonus to justify the price...

Oh, on that note, there is some evidence that cone filters that do not draw air from in front of the bumper (i.e., "short rams") appear to lose power over the factory boxes, a least on the basis of a few dynos...

So, cliff notes...

Bang for the buck = high flow filters + silicone smooth tubing.

Money no object, gimmie every last whp -- I live life a 1/4 mile at a time = some sort of CAI (i.e., "long tube") set up.
Id say thats a good summary...
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Old 10-19-2011, 03:48 PM   #42 (permalink)
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well worth it for me, i got a bout 9rwhp with the AFE drop ins and the HPS post mafs
curious if this was with other mods or no?
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Old 10-19-2011, 04:12 PM   #43 (permalink)
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curious if this was with other mods or no?
no,just post mafs and drop in.... this was before i added art pipes, i got 298rwhp with just ART pipes, post mafs and drop ins@ uprev in austin on dynojet
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Old 10-19-2011, 05:23 PM   #44 (permalink)
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nice write, Jordo!

I have HPS tubes and stock filters and I can say I like my throttle response after adding tubes only!

It's a very dusty area here, so I'm afraid of using AFE drop-ins, because I'm not sure about their filtration ability... Or maybe they are good at filtering?
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:13 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GZ3 View Post
no,just post mafs and drop in.... this was before i added art pipes, i got 298rwhp with just ART pipes, post mafs and drop ins@ uprev in austin on dynojet
That's interesting... so you were tuned but had no cbe with these numbers?
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