JWT pop chargers, Berk HFCs, and Stillen Catback.....raspy...

mattkim85 · 04-30-2009, 05:26 AM

Lol your right semtex
didnt notice i could see under the car without a lift...
since the car is so low

RCZ · 04-30-2009, 08:46 AM

remember guys that metal contracts when it gets cold. If you have any sections with a slight leak, you will hear it most in the AM when you first start the car then it will close up as it heats up and expands. This change in temperature of the exhaust tubes are most likely the reason for the rasp you hear until the car warms up...who knows, maybe its a resonance point of the engine that becomes more apparent once we free up the exhaust?

Minicobra1 · 04-30-2009, 03:44 PM

Is it best to tighten bolts, check for leaks, when it is hot or cold. I'm thinking cold, correct me if I'm wrong.

semtex · 04-30-2009, 03:49 PM

Cold. Something's that loose when cold might not be loose when hot, making it hard to detect if you check for it while hot.

mattkim85 · 04-30-2009, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RCZ

remember guys that metal contracts when it gets cold. If you have any sections with a slight leak, you will hear it most in the AM when you first start the car then it will close up as it heats up and expands. This change in temperature of the exhaust tubes are most likely the reason for the rasp you hear until the car warms up...who knows, maybe its a resonance point of the engine that becomes more apparent once we free up the exhaust?

so rcz are you getting a similar raspy sound with the stillen hfcs too??

04-30-2009, 03:44 PM	#18 (permalink)
Minicobra1 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Orange County, CA. Posts: 1,205 Drives: 370Z Tour, Spt, 6mt Rep Power: 645	Is it best to tighten bolts, check for leaks, when it is hot or cold. I'm thinking cold, correct me if I'm wrong. __________________ 370z Tour\| Spt Pack\|Navi\|BERK CBE\|Berk HFC's\| Eibach Springs\| Hotchkis Sway Bars\|SPC Camber Arms\|15mm Ichiba Wheel Spacers\| 19"Factory Nismo Wheels-Matt Black\|Stop Tech Rotors\|TWM Shifter\|3M Tint\|Black Fangs\|Black Rear Valance\|JDM Fog Light\| MY BAND-www.myspace.com/petroleum

04-30-2009, 03:49 PM	#19 (permalink)
semtex A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Behind enemy lines Age: 54 Posts: 5,995 Drives: People to drink Rep Power: 32	Cold. Something's that loose when cold might not be loose when hot, making it hard to detect if you check for it while hot. __________________ "There are no small accidents on this circuit." -- Ayrton Senna 316.8whp & 248 ft/lbs (Dyno Dynamics) \| 319whp & 256 ft/lbs (DynoJet) (04/23/10) Stillen G3 CAI, CBE, Pulley / F.I. LTH / GTSpec Ladder Brace / Setrab Oil Cooler / UpRev-tuned by Forged Perf.

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04-30-2009, 05:26 AM	#16 (permalink)
mattkim85 Base Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: los angeles, ca Age: 39 Posts: 230 Drives: 09 Z34, 08 AP2 Rep Power: 16	Lol your right semtex didnt notice i could see under the car without a lift... since the car is so low

04-30-2009, 08:46 AM	#17 (permalink)
RCZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Miami Posts: 6,403 Drives: '09 370Z Rep Power: 1119	remember guys that metal contracts when it gets cold. If you have any sections with a slight leak, you will hear it most in the AM when you first start the car then it will close up as it heats up and expands. This change in temperature of the exhaust tubes are most likely the reason for the rasp you hear until the car warms up...who knows, maybe its a resonance point of the engine that becomes more apparent once we free up the exhaust?