Stillen Gen3 Intake, Berk Hi-flow cat, and Stillen cat-back exhaust

thispecialk · 07-14-2009, 06:04 AM

What tool do u use to cut the space for the intake to fit

Denny McLain · 07-14-2009, 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kyle@STILLEN

One thing to keep in mind is that the slip joints are designed to crush down on the inner pipe. The benefit to that is that it acts as a secondary lock. When the outer pipe crushes down onto the inner pipe it maintains that position and is very difficult to re-form, hence the reason why some people who had the first product run of exhaust systems had difficulty even when jacking up the exhaust when they tried to re-install the system to correct the "sagging issue." This is also the reason why we recommend supporting the exhaust system with a jack so that when the outer pipe does crush down it is in the desired location.

It could be that the problems are from the original installation with the JIC Y-pipe and our rear section. Perhaps they won't work together? Perhaps they spacing is a bit different? I don't know, there are a lot of possibilities.

Please send me an email with photos of the problems that you are experiencing. I am especially interested in understanding why you needed to stack a bunch of washer to install this. No one else has ever needed to do that so that is something I am very curious about.

If you purchased this system any time within the past couple of months than I assure you, you most definitely have the new production version which no one else has had issues with during the installation process. All of the running production changes that were made have completely eliminated any issues that were found from the first production batch.

Shoot me an email with some photos if you can please. I will take a look at them immediately and we'll see what we can do to get you squeak free and enjoying the exhaust!

Josh

My play time just ran out as I need to prepare for a business trip to CA. I'm scheduled for dyno tuning Saturday and will take the pictures then. However, this sounds a bit like: "I didn't have sex with your wife, she had sex with me."

The dimensions of the JIC pipe is identical and had zero issues when connected to the stock back half. I sat the stock, JIC and Stillen on the floor on end standing up next to each other prior to installing and all three matched perfectly. Even put a straight edge on top and was surprised how identical they were. As mentioned, it's a very, very high quality design, top grade stainless, the TIG welds are perfect and it has flex joints just like the factory puts into the exhaust.

The exhaust was raised prior to final bolting and all procedures followed to a T. Guess I'm having a hard time with it's the customers fault. Granted it's more difficult doing it on jack stands but it shouldn't be rocket science and bolting up an exhaust is pretty straight forward.

I'll call when I'm at the airport heading your way.

Denny McLain · 07-14-2009, 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thispecialk

What tool do u use to cut the space for the intake to fit

High speed pneumatic grinder using a porting carbide tip. Took maybe 4-5 minutes at most to do both sides including clean-up. You need a compressor, but the tools themselves are quite reasonable.

Used to do my own intake porting and some mild head cleanup so I already had porting tools. In fact, I was tempted to do some cleanup work on the header inlets as they are pretty good, not perfect.

wstar · 07-14-2009, 09:31 AM

You could stand to be a little less abrasive about the situation. I'm not sure what's going on with your situation, but even the first batch of Stillen CBE's (which I have), which lots of people had issues with clearing the crossmember, didn't seem as bad as you're describing this, and it's been quite a while since forum members here started reporting a higher success rate due to the design changes. Lots of them have gone in fine in the past couple of months, haven't really seen any fitment issues reported lately until yours.

Maybe try loosening the slip-joints a lot and freeing them up with a mallet to make sure they slip well when you jack it back up into place to retorque again, that would be my next guess. In order to raise the center further than the last place you torqued it too, the slipjoints would have to go "shorter", which if they made any impression on the underlying pipe means they need to slip over the bump of that impression to adjust now.

Denny McLain · 07-14-2009, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

You could stand to be a little less abrasive about the situation. I'm not sure what's going on with your situation, but even the first batch of Stillen CBE's (which I have), which lots of people had issues with clearing the crossmember, didn't seem as bad as you're describing this, and it's been quite a while since forum members here started reporting a higher success rate due to the design changes. Lots of them have gone in fine in the past couple of months, haven't really seen any fitment issues reported lately until yours.

Maybe try loosening the slip-joints a lot and freeing them up with a mallet to make sure they slip well when you jack it back up into place to retorque again, that would be my next guess. In order to raise the center further than the last place you torqued it too, the slipjoints would have to go "shorter", which if they made any impression on the underlying pipe means they need to slip over the bump of that impression to adjust now.

Would describe it best as "irritated" as the headers really kicked my butt and the 02 from Nissan still has not arrived. Need to do more with my life than lay under a car in 100 degree heat and as mentioned.....my play time ran out.

Still feel that it should be a "non-issue" and even though others are claiming success, others are not (like me).

Wondering how many other brands of exhaust you have to jump through this many hoops with? One of the reasons I favored the JIC is not having slip joints as for some reason, really never trusted them. We'll play with it and make it work, certainly didn't expect to have to.

thispecialk · 07-18-2009, 11:48 PM

Question about Stillen exhaust. I just installed mine and it clears the cross member and sway bar my question is when I hit a bump and the springs compress does the sway bar move down with the exhaust or does the sway bar go down by it self? I check under neet and it clears about half an inch from swaybar to exhaust or do the sway and exhaust not move when the spring compress

kannibul · 07-19-2009, 03:37 AM

I'e got a 6ft piece of rigid conduit that I frequently use as a breaker-bar addon for my ratchets (1/2 and 3/8 drives)

Granted, one of these days I'll blow up a ratched doing it, and will have to get a real breaker bar, but...until then, slow and steady pressure generally does the trick.

JvKintheUSA · 07-31-2009, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FuszNissan

We cut a piece of rubber from a tire and placed it up in the cross members and exhaust to stop the rattle

Doesn't the rubber melt? My Stillen exhaust rattles and I was thinking of getting a piece of tire rubber, but not sure that fix will last. What is your experience with the tire rubber FuszNissan?

07-14-2009, 09:31 AM	#79 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	You could stand to be a little less abrasive about the situation. I'm not sure what's going on with your situation, but even the first batch of Stillen CBE's (which I have), which lots of people had issues with clearing the crossmember, didn't seem as bad as you're describing this, and it's been quite a while since forum members here started reporting a higher success rate due to the design changes. Lots of them have gone in fine in the past couple of months, haven't really seen any fitment issues reported lately until yours. Maybe try loosening the slip-joints a lot and freeing them up with a mallet to make sure they slip well when you jack it back up into place to retorque again, that would be my next guess. In order to raise the center further than the last place you torqued it too, the slipjoints would have to go "shorter", which if they made any impression on the underlying pipe means they need to slip over the bump of that impression to adjust now. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

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07-14-2009, 06:04 AM	#76 (permalink)
thispecialk Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 483 Drives: 2009 370z, manual, Rep Power: 16	What tool do u use to cut the space for the intake to fit

07-18-2009, 11:48 PM	#81 (permalink)
thispecialk Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 483 Drives: 2009 370z, manual, Rep Power: 16	Question about Stillen exhaust. I just installed mine and it clears the cross member and sway bar my question is when I hit a bump and the springs compress does the sway bar move down with the exhaust or does the sway bar go down by it self? I check under neet and it clears about half an inch from swaybar to exhaust or do the sway and exhaust not move when the spring compress

07-19-2009, 03:37 AM	#82 (permalink)
kannibul A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Jenks, OK Posts: 2,281 Drives: 370z Touring/Sport Rep Power: 267	I'e got a 6ft piece of rigid conduit that I frequently use as a breaker-bar addon for my ratchets (1/2 and 3/8 drives) Granted, one of these days I'll blow up a ratched doing it, and will have to get a real breaker bar, but...until then, slow and steady pressure generally does the trick.