!! Stripped Cat Bolt !!

Synack · 08-02-2011, 10:22 AM

I have 22,0xx miles. I wonder how this is going to pan out. Easier or harder than most...?

halogodx · 08-03-2011, 01:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Synack

I have 22,0xx miles. I wonder how this is going to pan out. Easier or harder than most...?

Let me know how hard or easy it is and what u used. I've got about the same as you and plan on installing later next week

neveucd · 08-02-2011, 10:29 AM

And probably harder since heat and rust will probably play a factor now. Even the O2 sensors are hard to get off once they've been heated/infused into the threading for so many miles.

Synack · 08-02-2011, 11:44 AM

Super!! lol

halogodx · 08-03-2011, 11:30 PM

So would you recommend against going to a shop and offering them $30-$40 just to remove the top 2 bolts ?

Motordyne · 08-04-2011, 12:53 AM

I found that if you PB blast it on both sides when mildly hot and put a blunt point tip on a air chisel and vibro shock the flange around the outer circumference of the bolt, it will crack the rust in the frozen up bolt.

It can make the difference between snapping Vs unscrewing the bolt.

halogodx · 08-04-2011, 04:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Motordyne

I found that if you PB blast it on both sides when mildly hot and put a blunt point tip on a air chisel and vibro shock the flange around the outer circumference of the bolt, it will crack the rust in the frozen up bolt.

It can make the difference between snapping Vs unscrewing the bolt.

. Even if you snap the bolt, all you would have to do to fix is go to a hardware store and buy a new one right?

CBRich · 08-04-2011, 05:46 AM

Are most of you guys who are destroying these bolts from up North where they salt the roads? Mine took a lot of torque but was nowhere near being damaged.

halogodx · 08-04-2011, 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CBRich

Are most of you guys who are destroying these bolts from up North where they salt the roads? Mine took a lot of torque but was nowhere near being damaged.

I think it depends on how long you've had your car, the longer you've had it the worse the install is probably going to be due to rust accumulation.

FastPaced · 08-04-2011, 10:19 PM

My car has 34k miles and has been owned and driven in NY through all seasons and I took mines off by torching it and having someone turning it counter-clockwise at the same time. Took some time and strength but it worked. I did this with an extension as well so I was able to keep my G3's in there

'10Anamoly · 08-23-2011, 12:53 PM

Quick question.. isnt one of the bolts permanently in the factory header? Aka welded to it on the top so its not removable? or is that the one that has a star fitting on the top which can be removed from the engine bay with an extension?

Mine is a bit stripped out so if it gets loose I want to remove that factory bolt, dremel out the hole a wee bit and use some heavy duty replacements.

SPOHN · 08-23-2011, 01:57 PM

None of it is welded and is removable. There shouldn't be any star shaped headed bolt down there.

ChrisSlicks · 08-23-2011, 02:35 PM

I think the stud you are thinking about was in the cat, not the header. Once you convert to after-market it is just 3 straight bolts.

Methodical4u · 08-23-2011, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPOHN

None of it is welded and is removable. There shouldn't be any star shaped headed bolt down there.

well, the stud bolt is indeed a star tip I can confirm... it doesn't have to be taken out... but it's there. I reused it when I installed my ART pipes.

SPOHN · 08-23-2011, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Methodical4u

well, the stud bolt is indeed a star tip I can confirm... it doesn't have to be taken out... but it's there. I reused it when I installed my ART pipes.

I must be missing something. Is this the bolt in the cat itself? If so that really has nothing to do with the removal of the cats for there is a nut that has to be removed off the stud (or star shaped stud). The wording from the OP is hard to understand what he is referring to.

08-02-2011, 10:22 AM	#1 (permalink)
Synack A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Houston Age: 37 Posts: 1,012 Drives: Sideways Rep Power: 17	I have 22,0xx miles. I wonder how this is going to pan out. Easier or harder than most...? __________________ NO LONGER OWNS A 370 Turbo FR-S

08-02-2011, 10:29 AM	#3 (permalink)
neveucd Enthusiast Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Houston, TX. Age: 41 Posts: 457 Drives: 2009 Nissan 370z TT Rep Power: 16	And probably harder since heat and rust will probably play a factor now. Even the O2 sensors are hard to get off once they've been heated/infused into the threading for so many miles. __________________ GTM Stg. 2 TT\|\|F.I. CF 18" Res. CBE\|\|GTM 3" Downpipe \|\|Injen Cold Water Intakes\|\|UpRev\|\|Work Gnosis GS2\|\|Hankook\|\|Tein Monoflex\|\|Hawk\|\|Seibon\|\|Aero Jacket\|\|

08-02-2011, 11:44 AM	#4 (permalink)
Synack A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Houston Age: 37 Posts: 1,012 Drives: Sideways Rep Power: 17	Super!! lol __________________ NO LONGER OWNS A 370 Turbo FR-S

08-23-2011, 12:53 PM	#11 (permalink)
'10Anamoly Track Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: GA Posts: 882 Drives: 2010 370Z BS M6 Rep Power: 16	Quick question.. isnt one of the bolts permanently in the factory header? Aka welded to it on the top so its not removable? or is that the one that has a star fitting on the top which can be removed from the engine bay with an extension? Mine is a bit stripped out so if it gets loose I want to remove that factory bolt, dremel out the hole a wee bit and use some heavy duty replacements. __________________ 2013 Ford Mustang GT 374rwhp, 360rwtq SAE / GT500 Axle-Backs / Brembo Pack / Track Pack / Recaros / 6spd

08-23-2011, 01:57 PM	#12 (permalink)
SPOHN A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Covington, GA Age: 46 Posts: 14,844 Drives: Waiting on next Z Rep Power: 222	None of it is welded and is removable. There shouldn't be any star shaped headed bolt down there. __________________

08-03-2011, 11:30 PM	#5 (permalink)
halogodx Base Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: daytona beach Posts: 93 Drives: 09 nissan 370z 7AT Rep Power: 16	So would you recommend against going to a shop and offering them $30-$40 just to remove the top 2 bolts ?

08-04-2011, 12:53 AM	#6 (permalink)
Motordyne Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 384 Drives: Z Rep Power: 17	I found that if you PB blast it on both sides when mildly hot and put a blunt point tip on a air chisel and vibro shock the flange around the outer circumference of the bolt, it will crack the rust in the frozen up bolt. It can make the difference between snapping Vs unscrewing the bolt.

08-04-2011, 05:46 AM	#8 (permalink)
CBRich A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: SC Posts: 2,464 Drives: 370Z Rep Power: 545	Are most of you guys who are destroying these bolts from up North where they salt the roads? Mine took a lot of torque but was nowhere near being damaged.

08-04-2011, 10:19 PM	#10 (permalink)
FastPaced Enthusiast Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Bronx, NY Posts: 372 Drives: '08 SFP IS-F Rep Power: 15	My car has 34k miles and has been owned and driven in NY through all seasons and I took mines off by torching it and having someone turning it counter-clockwise at the same time. Took some time and strength but it worked. I did this with an extension as well so I was able to keep my G3's in there

08-23-2011, 02:35 PM	#13 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 654	I think the stud you are thinking about was in the cat, not the header. Once you convert to after-market it is just 3 straight bolts. __________________ Hotchkis ARB \| Stillen CAI \| Art Pipes \| Berk CBE \| Stillen AP Racing Brakes \| AE Performance Oil Cooler \| BC Racing ER Coilovers \| Doran Control Arms

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