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Originally Posted by wstar or reflashing the ECU to ignore them. He shoots he scores.
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#2 (permalink) | |
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#3 (permalink) |
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In theory if the secondary O2 sensor always sends a lower voltage than the front then the resistor trick could work. However in reality it could get a little more complicated than that as I'm not sure that the voltage response of the O2 sensor is linear.
The dummy sensors are similar, however they always send back a fixed voltage according to what the ideal is supposed to be. |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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ETA: Making custom O2 simulators |
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#5 (permalink) |
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I'm still wondering one thing, doesn't each bank have 2 cats (4 total for both banks?) The typical OBDII arangement was:
O2/AFR-->1st cat(usually in OEM manifold)--> 2nd O2/AFR-->2nd (downstream) cat I was under the impression that the HFC replaces only the downstream cat (after the last sensor). So how would the sensor know whats going on further downstream? It should only be monitoring the upstream catalyst efficiency in theory. Please tell me if I'm wrong here because I'm assuming this based on the late 90's OBDII cars I am familiar with. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Our car only has 1 cat per bank. The arrangement on our car is Exhaust Manifold -> Cat -> (rest of exhaust), and there's an O2/AFR sensor in the exhaust manifold, and another O2 sensor right after the cat. The one in the manifold is the expensive wideband one that the ECU uses to regulate AFR. The simpler O2 after the cat is just used to validate that the Cat is functioning properly. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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The ECU will only look at the secondary O2 sensor during closed loop operation (i.e. lean burn, steady freeway cruise, idle, etc). The ECU will make small adjustments to the fuel trims based on the small adjustments made during closed loop operation. This is on the order of a few percentage points. I don't recall ever seeing anything over +/-5% in the last couple of years.
If you guys have ever called Berk for tech support you've heard us say, "Clear the ECU learned values before running the HFC's. You will run less of a chance of throwing a CEL light". Over time your ECU may have adjusted based on your driving habits. By clearing the fuel trims you give your ECU a chance to start back at zero and readjust to the new cats. The cat is in essence an oxygen storage device. When installing a BERK HFC that flows twice as much as the OEM cat it does not have enough contact time with the catalyst to "scrub" the exhaust gas and let the reaction occur. So the O2 readings will be different. Most of the time the thresholds of CEL or no CEL are large enough that the ECU will readapt and the CEL will stay off. However some of you who were already operating on the outer range will pass that threshold after a few drive cycles and illuminate the CEL light. During driving situations where the engine sees load it will completely ignore the secondary O2 sensor and go off of it's pre-programs maps. On one of our race cars we actually did not use any O2 sensors at all! We would run completely off the pre-programed maps on the stand alone. We would make small tweaks to the maps for high altitude race tracks and summer/winter weather. So, the moral of the story..... the secondary O2 sensors technically DO make tiny fuel adjustments in concert with the primary wide band sensor in the header, but only to make the car run as clean and lean as possible during steady cruise. From the stand point of the car enthusiast, they don't do squat! ![]() And to set the record straight in plain black and white: Berk HFC's are not SMOG legal in CA. Can they pass a sniffer test? Yes, all the time. But Berk Technology does not guarantee emmisions performance. The vast majority of you will never thorw a CEL. However there is a very small percentage of you who will throw the occasional P0420/P0430 CEL. Down the road there will also be a very small percentage of you who throw those CEL codes with the OEM cats! Hope that gives you some good info to chew on! Cheers guys! Berk Technology
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#9 (permalink) | |
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#10 (permalink) |
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The simplest and cheapest way would be to disconnect your negative battery cable for a few minutes, and pump the brake pedal a few times while it's disconnected, then connect it back up. That will clear CELs, learned fuel trims, and any other sort of self-tuning the ECU does.
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Actually one section of your post you are wrong.
Nissan ECU's do adjust for the type of driving you do. If you drove like a granny for a long time, then wanted to use the power out of your car for a road course or something your car would not feel like it has the power as it once did. I have seen this on many Nissans. Once you drive it aggressive after a while, it learns your driving again and makes the adjustments. Quote:
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Sorry man but my family has owned Nissans since the 70s. And all the Nissans since 95 have this type of ECU learning. The cars adapt to the driver. If you drive it easy, the car adjusts all the fuel/air trims to meet the best for those type of conditions for that driver. Once the driver or another one starts to drive the car and drives differently, the car will have to readjust itself again to make it optimal for that type of driving. So yes it does adapt to the driver. Let us know when you have actually tuned a ECU like Technosquare or UPREV then you might actually know how they work.
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