Long tube intake
 

If I isntall a long tube intake and want to clean the air filters do I need to remove the bumper every time?

Is there a big preformance difference between long tube and short tube intakes?

I have no interest in taking the bumper off except on install since I m going to pay someone to do the work($190) any way.

Most people will come in here and tell you that taking the bumper off takes 15 minutes and is extremely easy, which is true. But if you're really determined to not take your bumper off, look into some short ram intakes with heatshields, such as R2C or K&N, they won't give you the same horsepower gains as the long tube intakes but their gains are quite substantial on their own as well.

Agreed. Stillen does make the best hp gains, but what you read on here about short rams gaining "nothing" is not true. IMO, an aftermarket intake allows for smoother acceleration and improved throttle response. There are power gains as well, but if a short ram make 8 whp and a stillen makes 18, can you feel the difference? Butt dyno's are more a measure of torque anyway, and the only thing that will give you noticeable torque gains are forced induction. Even with an intake, header, and full exhaust with ecu tune you're only going to gain about 20-25 lb-ft of overall tq to the wheels. It will be noticeable, but it's also at least $2000 without installation and tuning fees.

Replacing intake hoses and K&N drop-in seems to be the cheapest intake mod. Stillen makes the most gains but also has the most cumbersome installation and requires removing the bumper and using dremel tools to allow for proper fitment of the intake pipes. I really like the HKS intake but the price is outrageous. HKS makes quality parts but that's a bit much.

You can put like 15 20 thousands miles or more (not sure of exact number) before you have to clean them, it is very worth it. You can put as many heat shields as you want to around a short tube intake your still going to be sucking in hot air from the hot engine bay. Your from TX correct, imagine how hot your engine bay is going to be on a summer afternoon, dont you want those filters way outside the engine bay?? Just my two cents.

Bold part:
Really? Because my dyno results have proven otherwise in the past. Short ram is sucking in hot air, it might show results on a cold engine but the moment you move up to operating temps or higher (which will happen) you are sucking in hotter air.

On the topic of Stillen G3, you have a long time before you have to remove the bumper to even clean them. It is a 20 minute job to take the bumper off and that is if you are taking extra time to be careful. If you want an upgraded intake stick with Stillen G3 or Injen.

Which short ram did you dyno on the 370? Do you have the graphs? I'm just curious. The Stillen is clearly the best out there in terms of performance. I just want to see how crappy the short rams are on the dyno

If they were comparable or even beneficial I'm sure the manufacturers would quote them in their product description as stillen does. I just cant see how there's zero improvement over stock when you are replacing the intake hoses and increasing the surface area via a replacement filter.

I know this happens a lot where one manufacturer is able to clearly out-perform the competition in terms of a specific aftermarket part. It's been a while but IIRC the AEM CAI for the RSX-S gained something ridiculous like 20 whp and the Hondata ecu re-flash completely changed the car.

BLM,

That is good advice on the Heat! I am buying Stillen for sure.

What about Exhaust? Any reccomendations?

Before install:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_w...8Uz8/HP-TQ.jpg

After install:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_w...912/HPday2.jpg

Takeda short ram intakes.
Which if you follow the design of them all, are the same basically. Where the filters sit and pump air from, will always be hot air after a certain amount of time.

Wow, that's impressive (in a bad way). So it looks like Stillen G3 is really the only worthwhile aftermarket intake mod

Takeda short ram's are just as good as long tubes?

The Injen is good also if you would like to skip the cutting.
I believe it showed maybe 2HP less at the top end but the whole curve was similar. Only issue with Injen is you have to be careful with water as the filters are much lower, now a small puddle is fine but 1 foot standing water is a no go of course.

No, skip the Takeda, they are horrible.

Yea that injen isnt an option for me for that reason. Also dont you have to re-locate the washer fluid reservoir or something? My only issue with the Stillen is finding someone I can trust with dremel work. I've been down the road of heavy modding before and as soon as things start to get cut and re-attached it bothers me. The last thing I'd want is someone rushing through it and making the whole not large enough and having the intake pipes rattling. I wish I had the skills to do it myself. I'm NOT mechanically inclined at all. It's sometimes a challenge to find speed shops who will treat the customer cars as if they were their own, and not charging $90+ an hour for their work.

You replace it with a smaller washer fluid reservoir, so in the same location but less volume.

Stillens are the best performers and removing the bumper for a once in a long while maint isn't a big deal. I'm on stillens Now coming from Injens and couldn't be happier. All short intakes have an advavantage of easy maint but little hp gain, You're better off with the stock boxes and K&N drop ins.

Op: I'd suggest looking at this DiY to have a good idea on how to remove it so you're not paying someone to do it also suggest going to a local meet and talk to members who have done it, and show you exatly how to do it if you're still unsure.

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...r-removal.html

now that I think about it, 17.5 whp really is a tremendous gain for just an intake on a 6 cyl car....

That is really nice! Thank you all for the help and advice.

What about Exhaust?

Exhaust is more about preference of design and sound. Stillen claims 18 whp. Fast Intnetions is very popular. My fav is the Berk.

If you go with a shielded short ram and perform the modshack vent mod your air intake temps will be as low as the Stillen or Injen. I have the R2C and the vent modification and my intake temps are no more than 8 degrees above ambient temps.

Sillen all the way!!!! Do you know a good place to purchase both the Stillen G3 intake and catback?

Longer tubes should move peak torque down if they do anything.

The major advantage must be that they just sit in front of instead of behind the radiator.

I've yet to see clear dyno evidence where any of these aftermarket intakes outperform high flow panel filters + smoother tubes, at least on the 370Z. The OEM airbox already ducts cool air in from the bumper and has excellent heat shielding.

It looks restrictive, but it's really not. Nissan did a good job on this airbox.

Intake/Exhaust - Nissan 370Z Forum

Also try the search/advanced search, it's not hard it may take some of your time.

Dyno's are always misleading with SRI's though, since you're usually dealing with heat soak that you would never see in a moving vehicle. Watch your IAT's on a dyno, then watch them drop significantly when you get out on the road.

I have the k&n because i didn't want to cut my car. Here are some threads about k&n typhoon (dynos included):
http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...o-results.html

http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...release-7.html

SRI get a bad rap, but members who have dyno'd the k&n's have shown gains. Besides you don't have to remove the bumper.

Here is an article I saw on Import Tuner. They dyno'd the stillen and I believe it got 7 hp or something like that, but I know other members got great gains.
2009 Nissan 370Z Touring - Mobil 1 - Power Pages - Import Tuner Magazine

Yeah, I agree. Wouldn't your car flush out the heat while its moving?

#1 was R2c
#2 was Stillen Gen 3

... on my 2010 G37xS sedan with ERZ HFC and FI CBE.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...2c-stillen.jpg

Stillen has the best gains, without a doubt, but at the cost of a more difficult installation/fitment issues with the tubes/AC lines/frame. You shouldn't have to clean the filters until 50,000 miles, depending where you live. That's Stillen/K&Ns recommended interval.

Since you're looking for an easier install without any permanent modifactions to your car, go with the R2c system. They are the best SRI IMO. Best filters in the industry, sweet black nickel finish, and they have a very nice refined (yet loud) tone to them.

Raw values aside, the G3's netted a gain of just over 2% over and above the gains of the previous mods (i.e., 311.5 * 1.02025 = 318.8).

That is EXACTLY in line with the percentage increase I have seen from K&N panel filters alone. Actually, HPS tubes added another 1% or so on top of that.

Even if we allow for some margin of error in comparing proportionate gains (should still be more consistent than raw value gains, especially going from different types of dynamometers), it points to what I am always ranting about on here:

There is no clear evidence that any aftermarket intake outperforms the OEM airbox (which already has cool air ducting!) with a high flow panel filter and smoother intake tubes.

You only see evidence of higher gains (i.e., > 2-3%) from intakes when it is the FIRST bolt-on. Probably because as you add subsequent bolt-ons to improve flow/exhaust it will result in diminshing returns as you approach max VE (i.e., there is only so much room for total improvement -- more probably possible once VVEL tuning can be done).

I only rant about this because other than the possible sound difference, why spend upwards of $500 bucks for the same gains that could be had at half the price?

Just looking out for fellow car guys... :tiphat:

P.S. Although the above dyno suggests that stillen will outperfom a SRI it doesn't show that it outperforms the OEM airbox with highflow filters.

SRI's are probably going to lose due to poor or no cool air ducting and limited or no heat shielding.

Also, the MAF sensors on our cars are VERY sensitive to air flow tumble effects, so that particular SRI may have done poorly in part due to insufficient R&D to ensure the MAF sensor was aligned correctly and not disturbed significantly by engine vibrations.

The major advantage of the G3 is that it draws air from outside the radiator -- but so do the OEM airboxes. I doubt the longer tubes themselves have anything to do with peak power -- if anything longer intake tubing should move peak torque down, not up.

Hps + k&n ftw

BTW, that other dyno above showed a gain of about 3.5% for the exhaust and 2.5% for the intake -- this is also in line with what I would expect from a catback (with OEM cats) and an intake (panel fitler or otherwise).

Again, raw values are far more misleading that proportionate gains -- there you should see a lot less variance from vehicle to vehicle, and dyno to dyno for a given bolt-on.

Keep in mind I have an awd G37 7AT. ;)

Doesn't matter. The % gain will be similar.

Also, at least for the 2WD trans, there is no clear difference in drivetrain loss between the 6MT and 7AT.

I think dynos I've seen for the AWD G37 on the G37 forum were within range for what I've seen the the 2WD cars put down, but in all honesty I am just going on memory for this one...

If you have drf files, please PM me :tiphat:

http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-p...iew-video.html

See the video in the above thread. The overall numbers seem slightly high (284 baseline), but the shop gained 42 whp with a stillen intake, exhaust, and uprev tune. I'm not sure, but I think he also had a stillen HFC also (in the video you see them removing the stock cats)...However, at the end of the video they showed what each component gained, and the Stillen CAI yielded 6.2 whp gain by itself. This is the only piece by piece dyno I've seen that shows how much you gain from each mod. Now, I'm sure if they dynoed the intake first before the exhaust it may have gained more by itself, but like Jordo has been saying all along, the Stillen intake, unless it's the only mod on the car, is no better than the hose/drop-in mod.


Just go with hoses and drop-ins....

I will agree with you on that. I do not believe the car just becomes a hot box when it actually starts moving. BTW, this was taken from a G37 forum:

http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/y...intaketemp.jpg