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Long tube intake

now that I think about it, 17.5 whp really is a tremendous gain for just an intake on a 6 cyl car....

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Old 03-02-2011, 12:01 PM   #16 (permalink)
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now that I think about it, 17.5 whp really is a tremendous gain for just an intake on a 6 cyl car....
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Old 03-02-2011, 02:10 PM   #17 (permalink)
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That is really nice! Thank you all for the help and advice.

What about Exhaust?
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Old 03-02-2011, 02:13 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Exhaust is more about preference of design and sound. Stillen claims 18 whp. Fast Intnetions is very popular. My fav is the Berk.
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Old 03-02-2011, 02:30 PM   #19 (permalink)
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If you go with a shielded short ram and perform the modshack vent mod your air intake temps will be as low as the Stillen or Injen. I have the R2C and the vent modification and my intake temps are no more than 8 degrees above ambient temps.

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Old 03-02-2011, 08:05 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Sillen all the way!!!! Do you know a good place to purchase both the Stillen G3 intake and catback?
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Old 03-03-2011, 06:56 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Longer tubes should move peak torque down if they do anything.

The major advantage must be that they just sit in front of instead of behind the radiator.

I've yet to see clear dyno evidence where any of these aftermarket intakes outperform high flow panel filters + smoother tubes, at least on the 370Z. The OEM airbox already ducts cool air in from the bumper and has excellent heat shielding.

It looks restrictive, but it's really not. Nissan did a good job on this airbox.
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Old 03-03-2011, 02:38 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Intake/Exhaust - Nissan 370Z Forum

Also try the search/advanced search, it's not hard it may take some of your time.
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Old 03-06-2011, 11:48 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theDreamer View Post
Before install:
[IMG]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_wgFNZZBDMaE/S7Kc0MA3CSI/AAAAAAAAAI8/QtyMiXF8Uz8/HP-TQ.jpg[/MG]

After install:
[IMG]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_wgFNZZBDMaE/S7Kc0q7_N6I/AAAAAAAAAJA/HAGzHWLW5zU/s912/HPday2.jpg[/MG]

Takeda short ram intakes.
Which if you follow the design of them all, are the same basically. Where the filters sit and pump air from, will always be hot air after a certain amount of time.

Dyno's are always misleading with SRI's though, since you're usually dealing with heat soak that you would never see in a moving vehicle. Watch your IAT's on a dyno, then watch them drop significantly when you get out on the road.
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Old 03-07-2011, 12:14 AM   #24 (permalink)
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I have the k&n because i didn't want to cut my car. Here are some threads about k&n typhoon (dynos included):
K&n dyno results

K&N Typhoon Release

SRI get a bad rap, but members who have dyno'd the k&n's have shown gains. Besides you don't have to remove the bumper.

Here is an article I saw on Import Tuner. They dyno'd the stillen and I believe it got 7 hp or something like that, but I know other members got great gains.
2009 Nissan 370Z Touring - Mobil 1 - Power Pages - Import Tuner Magazine

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red__Zed View Post
Dyno's are always misleading with SRI's though, since you're usually dealing with heat soak that you would never see in a moving vehicle. Watch your IAT's on a dyno, then watch them drop significantly when you get out on the road.
Yeah, I agree. Wouldn't your car flush out the heat while its moving?

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Old 03-07-2011, 02:45 AM   #25 (permalink)
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#1 was R2c
#2 was Stillen Gen 3

... on my 2010 G37xS sedan with ERZ HFC and FI CBE.



Stillen has the best gains, without a doubt, but at the cost of a more difficult installation/fitment issues with the tubes/AC lines/frame. You shouldn't have to clean the filters until 50,000 miles, depending where you live. That's Stillen/K&Ns recommended interval.

Since you're looking for an easier install without any permanent modifactions to your car, go with the R2c system. They are the best SRI IMO. Best filters in the industry, sweet black nickel finish, and they have a very nice refined (yet loud) tone to them.
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Old 03-07-2011, 04:15 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omgZ View Post
I have the k&n because i didn't want to cut my car. Here are some threads about k&n typhoon (dynos included):
K&n dyno results

K&N Typhoon Release

SRI get a bad rap, but members who have dyno'd the k&n's have shown gains. Besides you don't have to remove the bumper.

Here is an article I saw on Import Tuner. They dyno'd the stillen and I believe it got 7 hp or something like that, but I know other members got great gains.
2009 Nissan 370Z Touring - Mobil 1 - Power Pages - Import Tuner Magazine

Yeah, I agree. Wouldn't your car flush out the heat while its moving?
Raw values aside, the G3's netted a gain of just over 2% over and above the gains of the previous mods (i.e., 311.5 * 1.02025 = 318.8).

That is EXACTLY in line with the percentage increase I have seen from K&N panel filters alone. Actually, HPS tubes added another 1% or so on top of that.

Even if we allow for some margin of error in comparing proportionate gains (should still be more consistent than raw value gains, especially going from different types of dynamometers), it points to what I am always ranting about on here:

There is no clear evidence that any aftermarket intake outperforms the OEM airbox (which already has cool air ducting!) with a high flow panel filter and smoother intake tubes.

You only see evidence of higher gains (i.e., > 2-3%) from intakes when it is the FIRST bolt-on. Probably because as you add subsequent bolt-ons to improve flow/exhaust it will result in diminshing returns as you approach max VE (i.e., there is only so much room for total improvement -- more probably possible once VVEL tuning can be done).

I only rant about this because other than the possible sound difference, why spend upwards of $500 bucks for the same gains that could be had at half the price?

Just looking out for fellow car guys...

P.S. Although the above dyno suggests that stillen will outperfom a SRI it doesn't show that it outperforms the OEM airbox with highflow filters.

SRI's are probably going to lose due to poor or no cool air ducting and limited or no heat shielding.

Also, the MAF sensors on our cars are VERY sensitive to air flow tumble effects, so that particular SRI may have done poorly in part due to insufficient R&D to ensure the MAF sensor was aligned correctly and not disturbed significantly by engine vibrations.

The major advantage of the G3 is that it draws air from outside the radiator -- but so do the OEM airboxes. I doubt the longer tubes themselves have anything to do with peak power -- if anything longer intake tubing should move peak torque down, not up.
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Old 03-07-2011, 06:29 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Hps + k&n ftw
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Old 03-08-2011, 04:45 AM   #28 (permalink)
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BTW, that other dyno above showed a gain of about 3.5% for the exhaust and 2.5% for the intake -- this is also in line with what I would expect from a catback (with OEM cats) and an intake (panel fitler or otherwise).

Again, raw values are far more misleading that proportionate gains -- there you should see a lot less variance from vehicle to vehicle, and dyno to dyno for a given bolt-on.
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Old 03-10-2011, 02:43 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordo! View Post
BTW, that other dyno above showed a gain of about 3.5% for the exhaust and 2.5% for the intake -- this is also in line with what I would expect from a catback (with OEM cats) and an intake (panel fitler or otherwise).

Again, raw values are far more misleading that proportionate gains -- there you should see a lot less variance from vehicle to vehicle, and dyno to dyno for a given bolt-on.
Keep in mind I have an awd G37 7AT.
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Old 03-10-2011, 04:02 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efuseakay View Post
Keep in mind I have an awd G37 7AT.
Doesn't matter. The % gain will be similar.

Also, at least for the 2WD trans, there is no clear difference in drivetrain loss between the 6MT and 7AT.

I think dynos I've seen for the AWD G37 on the G37 forum were within range for what I've seen the the 2WD cars put down, but in all honesty I am just going on memory for this one...

If you have drf files, please PM me
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