Long tube intake

theDreamer

Before install:


After install:


Takeda short ram intakes.
Which if you follow the design of them all, are the same basically. Where the filters sit and pump air from, will always be hot air after a certain amount of time.

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bigZ

Takeda short ram's are just as good as long tubes?

theDreamer

No, skip the Takeda, they are horrible.

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Red__Zed

Dyno's are always misleading with SRI's though, since you're usually dealing with heat soak that you would never see in a moving vehicle. Watch your IAT's on a dyno, then watch them drop significantly when you get out on the road.

omgZ

I have the k&n because i didn't want to cut my car. Here are some threads about k&n typhoon (dynos included):
K&n dyno results

K&N Typhoon Release

SRI get a bad rap, but members who have dyno'd the k&n's have shown gains. Besides you don't have to remove the bumper.

Here is an article I saw on Import Tuner. They dyno'd the stillen and I believe it got 7 hp or something like that, but I know other members got great gains.
2009 Nissan 370Z Touring - Mobil 1 - Power Pages - Import Tuner Magazine

Yeah, I agree. Wouldn't your car flush out the heat while its moving?

Jordo!

Raw values aside, the G3's netted a gain of just over 2% over and above the gains of the previous mods (i.e., 311.5 * 1.02025 = 318.8).

That is EXACTLY in line with the percentage increase I have seen from K&N panel filters alone. Actually, HPS tubes added another 1% or so on top of that.

Even if we allow for some margin of error in comparing proportionate gains (should still be more consistent than raw value gains, especially going from different types of dynamometers), it points to what I am always ranting about on here:

There is no clear evidence that any aftermarket intake outperforms the OEM airbox (which already has cool air ducting!) with a high flow panel filter and smoother intake tubes.

You only see evidence of higher gains (i.e., > 2-3%) from intakes when it is the FIRST bolt-on. Probably because as you add subsequent bolt-ons to improve flow/exhaust it will result in diminshing returns as you approach max VE (i.e., there is only so much room for total improvement -- more probably possible once VVEL tuning can be done).

I only rant about this because other than the possible sound difference, why spend upwards of $500 bucks for the same gains that could be had at half the price?

Just looking out for fellow car guys...

P.S. Although the above dyno suggests that stillen will outperfom a SRI it doesn't show that it outperforms the OEM airbox with highflow filters.

SRI's are probably going to lose due to poor or no cool air ducting and limited or no heat shielding.

Also, the MAF sensors on our cars are VERY sensitive to air flow tumble effects, so that particular SRI may have done poorly in part due to insufficient R&D to ensure the MAF sensor was aligned correctly and not disturbed significantly by engine vibrations.

The major advantage of the G3 is that it draws air from outside the radiator -- but so do the OEM airboxes. I doubt the longer tubes themselves have anything to do with peak power -- if anything longer intake tubing should move peak torque down, not up.

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Nikkolai

I will agree with you on that. I do not believe the car just becomes a hot box when it actually starts moving. BTW, this was taken from a G37 forum: