General consensus on boltons to gain the most HP.

red6spd

Who is making 330-340 whp N/A? Not on a dynojet. Link?

Actually I've hardly seen anyone break 300 on a dynojet (especially SAE corrected -- STD tends to overcorrect towards higher values) who isn't in a modded Nismo. I think you may be mistaken...


And yet, I've seen no independnet dynos that report equivalent gains... Sorry, but I'm not buying it. Also, see my comment about the first breather mod's effect.



So guys are not making over 300 wheel on a dyno jet with full bolt-on's?? So what are they putting down stock like 240-250HP?? Where is all that 332HP going to???? My dyno was done on a Mustang I believe, and I have seen similar results on a Dyno Dynamics.

Your also saying that a car with 332HP with full bolt-on's and a good tune is barely breaking 300 wheel if at all??? Dam these cars suck I guess.

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2010 Base+Sport 6spd: Stillen G3, FI Non-Resonated CBE, FI Non-Resonated Test Pipes, UpRev Tuned, Custom 24R Oil Cooler, JDM Rear Fog-OEM Harness.
???Whp ???WTQ (Will find out come spring time)

Jordo!

It depends on the dyno -- some are adjusted to read high or low more easily than others.

Dynojets are very consistent, because the weight of the drum is a fixed variable, unlike the degree of load that can be adjusted on some
other dynos.

That said, those with adjustable load are better for tuning.

For a comparison of different kinds of dynos on the 350Z, see here Turbo Magazine's Dyno Dash - Tech Review - Turbo Magazine

and for a table that summarizes the % change, here
Dyno Comparison - NewCelica.org Forum

Stock 370's put down about 273 +/-5 on a dynojet with SAE correction. Drive train losses appear to be around 16.5 - 17.5%, with no clear difference between AT and MT.

Stock Nismos put down around 288-290 +/-5 (need more data to verify). My guess is that the difference is mainly due to a different VVEL tune, as they always seem to make a bit more than regular Z's with similar mods and similar fuel and spark tuning.

Tell me your mods, and I'll tell you what you'll most likely come in at on a dynojet with SAE correction. If I'm wildly off, I owe you a beer

Based on the data I've collected and after reviewing other dynojet dynos, it looks like you need LTH, pulleys, AND a tune to creep into the 310's. Everyone else with full bolt-ons and a tune should just about break 300 +/-5.

More should be possible once VVEL can be tuned.

Check out my dyno thread for lots of details and commentary on the effect of various mods if interested

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370Z JT

^just for fun. What would I put down on 91 octane on a dynojet with

Invidia Gemini Catback
Stillen G3 intake
NST pulley
Motor dyne manifold
Motor dyne ART pipes
Up rev tune.

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Jordo!

Yep for the set. I think I paid $108 shipped for mine.

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Jordo!

The octane probably won't matter all that much; the Z doesn't seem to like too much extra advance at peak, and we get 93 down here.

um... lets see. Assuming a baseline of 275 (give or take) you should definitely be over 300 whp SAE corrected, but it's hard to say with the Motordyne IM as it tends to make gains lower in the rev range, and may actually hurt peak a bit.

I'll make an optimistic guess of 303 - 308 SAE corrected.

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Z eliminator

My base line is 264 rwhp on a dyno jet set at 700 ft elevation. With full bolt ons i make 300 rwhp SAE. I had one pull where is made 309. Converted to STD it made 318 and Actual power it made 320. I have the dyno charts for the above 3 runs after they were converted to each of the uniys.
We later discovered that the actual elevation is 300 FT.
Does any body know how much of difference 400 FT of elevaton would make in my #'s.
Theses #'s were before I put the Motordyne intake on. I gained 1 rwhp with it top end and from 3800 to 7000 rpm it made 13 to 15 LBs more torque and 8 to 12 rwhp more. but the top end was the same.
On the 1/4 mile 0 to 1000 ft times were way quicker and 3 mph faster but it ran the same times in the 1/4 mile.
These are good #'s for a 7 AT.

Z

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12.343 @114.14 . 4.5 stroker motor is now being built. Dec 1 2015.

Jordo!

Any wild chance you can get the drf's? If so would you mind sharing them me?

I always thought your dyno was bit on the low side for baseline, but from what I've seen the range is roughly 268 - 278, so it's very close to the rest of the data points.

Also, was that baseline SAE corrected? If uncorrected it could be the ambient conditions were knocking out a couple of ponies, or possibly, the engine needed a bit more break in time -- how many miles on the engine when you got your baseline?

Also, as we've both noticed, the ECU takes a full pulls to adjust itself, so if you only got in 2-3 pulls, it might have dyoned a tad higher on the next few runs. Hard to say.

I'm not sure exactly how much the difference in elevation would make, but presumably it would result in some degree of overcorrection upwards, possibly by 1-2%

If you can get me your drfs I can probably figure out more of what's going on. At minimum, I can tell you the correction factor value that was used (might also be noted on the printout).

We're pretty much at 0 elevation here in FL, so for us the only power killers are heat and humidity

STD tends to overcorrect upwards for NA engines -- 309 is probably spot on as a conservative estimate and 318 would be a slightly high "bragging rights" dyno

Not sure what you mean by "actual power", but if we estimate your drivetrain losses as measured by that particular dyno (assuming same dyno all runs) to be around 21% (which, BTW, is waaaaay higher than indicated by most dynojets, so again, I think you just had an unusually low baseline), your power to the crank now would be around 391 (SAE) to 402 (STD).

Assuming you just had a wonky baseline, going by the typically seen 16 -18% drivetrain losses would put you a bit lower at the crank of course... either way, the 300 - 309 whp (what matters) ball park sounds about right -- sweet!

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mspeasl

First thing is not to do them all at once...........! As an old time drag racer you soon learn that there are some things that cancel others out.... The only way to be sure what works and what does not is to do one thing at a time. Then go to the strip and test it if you do not have access to a Dyno.

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Mspeasl - Central Illinois
2009 - Solid Red, M6 '370' Sport/Touring (Delivered 7 April 09)

Z eliminator

My first base line pull was 260.4 sae rwhp. Then it hit 264 on the next 2 pulls once we let the engine cool down.

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12.343 @114.14 . 4.5 stroker motor is now being built. Dec 1 2015.

red6spd

Thats a 72hp loss. Does that seem right?

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2010 Base+Sport 6spd: Stillen G3, FI Non-Resonated CBE, FI Non-Resonated Test Pipes, UpRev Tuned, Custom 24R Oil Cooler, JDM Rear Fog-OEM Harness.
???Whp ???WTQ (Will find out come spring time)

Z eliminator

No it went up 4 rwhp on a cool moter VS a hot engine.

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12.343 @114.14 . 4.5 stroker motor is now being built. Dec 1 2015.

RCZ

FWIW.

I went from 256whp baseline to 305whp with:

Stillen Gen3 Intakes +35%
Stillen HFC + 30%
Stillen Catback +25%
Custom UpRev Osiris Tune + 10%

The +% is what each piece contributed to the total power gain. The Tune after full boltons is essentially to clean up the AFR and squeeze a few more horse out.....

GZ3

my baseline was 274rwhp on a dynojet corrected, added HPS and Drop ins and got 285rwhp correct same dyno. Now i added Motordyne ART pipes...waiting on appointment to go back

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09 GT-R
12' 370Z 7AT HANDED DOWN
12'+13' 5.0 SOLD

dad

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red6spd

256!!! Thats how much HP my 3.5 Altima put down with full bolt-on's.

__________________
2010 Base+Sport 6spd: Stillen G3, FI Non-Resonated CBE, FI Non-Resonated Test Pipes, UpRev Tuned, Custom 24R Oil Cooler, JDM Rear Fog-OEM Harness.
???Whp ???WTQ (Will find out come spring time)