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Dyno results!
Okay guys, here are the results.
First, here's the dyno I did a couple of weeks ago on a Dyno Dynamics dyno. Max = 291.7whp. My only mods were the Stillen cat-back exhaust and the Berk HFCs. http://www.the370z.com/members/semte...1467494cd8.jpg Here's today's dyno, back on the same dyno, with the addition of the Stillen G3 intakes. Max = 306.4whp. http://www.the370z.com/members/semte...re-14-7whp.jpg Net gain = 14.7whp. (In case any of you are wondering why the gain is lower than RCZ's, keep in mind that I already have exhaust mods in place, whereas RCZ was running the stock exhaust setup. It is normal for gains on individual components to diminish as they are combined with other mods.) For comparative purposes, I also went and got a dyno on a DynoJet. The DynoJet run was performed about 2.5 hours after the Dyno Dynamics run. No change to ambient temperature, but my oil was running about 20 degrees hotter from driving across town. Not sure if 20 degrees is going to make much difference, but I figure I may as well mention it. Here's the DynoJet chart. Max = 321.3whp. So if we want to use this data as guidance for future comparisons between the two brands of dyno, we can say that Dyno Dynamics numbers come in lower than DynoJet numbers by approximately 4.6%. We can also say that to convert a DD number to a DJ number, apply a multiplier of 1.0486 to the DD number to get an approximate DJ number. (But take this guidance with a grain of salt. I'm beginning to think that there's really no way to get a standard multiplication factor that is accurate most of the time. There's just too many variables. For example, I think the multiplication factor depends on the amount of HP the car has, which means that the multiplier that holds true for a 300hp car is different than that which holds true for, say, a 200hp car.) I know, blah blah blah . . . show us the freakin' graph already, right? :stfu: http://www.the370z.com/members/semte...d-321-3-dj.jpg I took video. I will post the video later tonight. Don't forget the rep points, people! ;) |
+1 Rep
Great results. So basically around 50 horsepower gain on the DD at the wheels with HFC/cat back and intakes. Fantastic! You don't have the Headers on yet right? |
Right, no headers yet. No tune yet either -- we should be able to get even more out of this with a tune.
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By my math you are making close to 400hp at the crank right now, pretty cool.
Too bad the headers are such a PITA to install. I think I'm just going to do the HFC's, exhaust and intake and be happy. Oh, and oil cooler obviously. |
^^^^ Holy crap
that is a huge gain over stock! do you feel a significant difference? oh and BTW thanks for all the HARD work your putting in! :) |
Impressive gains.
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Awesome :) The ricer math just keeps on working against all odds. This car is like magic.
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Excellent job, it's awesome how stable the line is as well, there is no major dips in it and it looks like power delivery is staying really consistent.
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:) I dont want to say I told you so. Everything comes down to the calibration of the dyno. You will not be able to calculate results for this type of thing, not to mention heat soak makes a HUGE difference in this car. People haven't realized this yet, but I lost as much as 15hp due to a 30 degrees temp difference...
Regardless, those are excellent numbers, congrats on being the first Z on the forums over 300whp. That is simply amazing. I am going to have the same setup + headers. Hopefully by next week. We will see if I end up making as much power at least. Really really glad you are on these forums Ben, you are very helpful. |
.........damn!
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New video clip!
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Are you pulling an April Fools joke on that 306whp DD?
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OMG!! ricer math ftw with this car. congrats!!
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Very very good video. Car sounds amazing too.
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^^freaking awesome!!! these numbers are getting me excited for the route I want to take when I get mine....
Time to get some 1/4 miles times, see if that blue beast can crack a 13 flat with the extra mods...........@110-111 ish would be my guesstimate...... |
THIS IS INSANE!!!! That means (assuming a 15% drivetrain loss) the car is putting out about 380 hp at the flywheel!! And that is without a tune or headers. So, I definitely think 400 flywheel hp is attainable now. Before, I thought it would take some heavy-duty mods to pull that off.
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How's your gas milage been with the mods added? So far no CES light? And... Have temps risen much quicker than stock in the oil?
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OMG bro can i say inspiration!!!
i cant wait for my braek in period to be over after that modding time of course same set up as yours :D |
Why is your torque so high on your second graph chart?
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once again, impressive gains! so with a good tune you will be looking at 390 fly wheel hp!
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But don't get too excited. As far as I'm concerned, these calculations make for some interesting conjecture, just some food for thought, nothing more. If someone were to ask me to estimate how much I'm making at the crank, I wouldn't actually feel comfortable telling them 400. I'd rather give a conservative estimate based on, say, 17% drivetrain loss. That'd work out to 369 hp at the flywheel. Edit: I just realized that I'm being too conservative. If I'm only making 369 at the flywheel, then that means I've only gained 37 hp at the flywheel (from the stock 332). But there's just no way I've only gained 37 hp at the crank, not when I've already gained more than that at the wheels. That's when I remembered that the 17% rule of thumb is for DynoJet numbers, so I shouldn't be applying it to my Dyno Dynamics results. If I do the math against my DynoJet pull of 321.3 whp, it comes out to 387.1 hp at the flywheel. In all honesty, that's probably a lot more realistic, given my results at the wheels thus far. |
that is just insane!
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Edit: Stillen is about to release an oil cooler. It is a SETRAB unit. |
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Awesome numbers! I installed my Stillen intakes and Berk HFCs on Tuesday and I can't wait to get my exhaust. I still have to decide on which one I want but assuming the gains are fairly similar across most catbacks, I should be making about the same power as you.
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There are considerations to exhausts, some prefer really loud ones, some want giant cans out the back, titanium tips, for example..
But I can guarantee you that top performance gains from the exhaust have to be worked for. It's not just a matter of throwing some pipes together and calling it a system if you're looking for true performance. and thanks for installing the intakes Skorch! What do you think of the intake growl? |
i just wanna give props to Stillen. When they initially came out with these massive gains, we called em out (YA RIGHT!!), but they really pulled thru and wow'ed us on the dynos. Cheers to a great product. U guys have my full attention (and wallet). cant wait for some nice group buys (cough cough) and more products. and congrats to those who have these intakes/exhausts/pulleys/flywheels etc
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stunning results.
is the car's native tune so flexible that it exploits airflow/backpressure advantages so fully? makes me wonder if a tune would be necessary at all. either way, bolt ons have the z in m3 territory, power wise. wow! |
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i think u should beable to tune the vvl system to make bigger power in the low-end by turning off emmission controls
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For any of you who may still have concerns about these intake filters obstructing air flowing to the radiator -- I was changing my oil tonight and right before I was about to bolt the undertray back on, I happened to look up as I was laying underneath the car, straight at the filters. I yelled for my wife to hand me my camera. As you can see from the pictures below, there's plenty of room behind the filters and air isn't being blocked from the radiator at all. Hopefully these pictures will put this concern to rest once and for all.
http://www.the370z.com/members/semte...h-radiator.jpg http://www.the370z.com/members/semte...rneath-car.jpg http://www.the370z.com/members/semte...rneath-car.jpg |
Anyway to remove the filters via this route or only by removing the bumper? Just wondering for cleaning later on.
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Basically taking off the bumper entails: 1) Remove that plastic shield under the engine (the same one you remove for oil changes) 2) Remove the little spoilers in front of the front wheels (sport package, 3 little bolts each) 3) Remove the little plastic cover between the radiator and the bumper under the hood (all plastic snaps) 4) Remove one plastic snap from inside each front wheel well, and loosen a bolt hidden under there 5) Remove two more bolts under the car in the front corners of the bumper (just behind the main front spoiler from the sport package) 6) Pull on the bumper near the headlights and it just unsnaps and comes free That combined with the long cleaning interval on the K&N's should make it a non-issue. |
Hmm... Some of those steps are extra. You dont need to do step one or two. Just need to remove the screws that are holding the bottom of the bumper to the black splash guard. Like 8 screws total.
At least that was my experience... I didnt go near the plastic shield. |
now for some real airflow I thought I saw a pic of a white 370 with two small cutouts on teh bumper for the intakes to directly get air?? where did I see that?
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