+1

Regarding the SES lights ... check for exhaust leaks.

http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_3918.jpg

did you get a SES? If so, was it the same codes mentioned above? Is the exhaust leak what caused yours?

No, not at all. If anything, its most likely air leaks that are the cause.

if air can get in, than can't exhaust get out?

Both. Leaks let air in and exhaust out.

Each code refer to each side. Leaks on both sides?

I had a shop check the install already and said it was fine. Dead O2 sensors?

if one has an exhaust leak... woiuld you hear it more when giving it gas or letting off? I have a sound on mine, but it sounds like what others have described with their ART pipes... I explained it to Tony that it sounds like sand hitting the inside of the tubes of the ART pipes. I am going to go over all of the bolts tomorrow and make sure everything is all tight.

As far as the SES lights go though... I have now over 500 miles on my MD pipes and no SES light.

If they are sure there is no leak it may simply be the sensors are able to detect the difference with the ART pipe stand offs.

The sensors would only be dead if they were improperly handled. (or mishandled)

Had this exact same problem with gasket.. iT GOT incinerated. I changed it but still got SES though

Im interested in this ART pipes, how do i get one?

pm motordyne.

I have the exact same issue with these gaskets - with 2 different sets. The Berk gaskets and the Motordyne gaskets. When I received my replacement set of V2 pipes the gasket was destroyed. Unfortunately new gaskets were not shipped with the new set - huge inconvenience. Now I'm waiting on some OEM gaskets and will once again change these out.

All these are blowing out on the same side - inboard and just below that bolt thats extremely tight from the factory. We have been sure to tighten that as much as "physically" possible and are still developing leaks. Not sure what's to blame, the machined face? Gasket material?

The flanges are checked for flatness and put through a planer if it is needed. The planer grinds the flange flat after welding.

Oem gaskets are just a O ring they wont work bro. Ask tony for some more

Hey Guys.

I passed the 1500 mile mark on my G37's ART pipes. Wanted to give an update. The Rattle I was complaining about earlier in this thread has completely GONE AWAY as promised by Tony. :happydance:


There are no signs whatsoever anymore. Not during cold, warm, or HOT engine operation. I didn't have to drive the car abnormally to make the sound go away, and I think that may be why it took my rattle a little longer to disappear. I normally tend to stay off the throttle more than others.

Sound is much more dampened now. Wicked throaty when you're deep on the pedal, but muted when you want it to be.

So happy with my purchase. Thanks so much Tony for your patience in working with my issue. Can't wait for the rest of the Motordyne exhaust now!

off topic real quick but, interesting wheel color lol

Have any of you guys with gasket issues tried like the permatex high heat gasket maker? It might be worth a shot you never know right?

By the way, the ART pipes would be one of the best investments you could do to your car IMO.

Any idea roughly when???

You might still have a leak if you are throwing the SES

First, I want to say that the customer support from Motordyne is fantastic. I had a leak from blown gaskets and they sent me replacements at no charge. I had them installed over the weekend. The difference was amazing but unfortunately short lived. I posted the picture of the blown gasket several posts back.

• The fuel smell was gone
• The SES was gone
• The nasty, raspy, whooshing noise was gone
• The exhaust note was almost stock, very quiet
• Now all of that is back, keep reading ….

Granted, I am on the OEM NISMO exhaust, but I could hear a rattling, whoosh noise directly related to the amount of throttle applied. It was easy to identify once I knew what it sounded like. Having the car leak free enabled me to identify the leak sound. If I accelerate up to say 30-40 and shift to 5th/6th and floor it, I could easily hear the raspy leak. I thought that was just a test pipe noise but realized that was the exhaust leak.

Replacing the gaskets significantly quieted the exhaust. However, the new gaskets lasted about 72 hours. I have searched around and cannot find a metal based replacement. When I had a Random Technology HFC on another vehicle it came with metal based gaskets. I do not think these fiber based gaskets are working, but I cannot find a more suitable replacement. The same tuner (Jotech Motorsports) did the initial install and gasket replacement, so I do not think it is an installer issue. I am SC’ed but that should not increase exhaust temperature or otherwise compromise the gasket.

So, I am seriously considering going back to the OEM cats. Again, this is absolutely no slam on Motordyne. They produce a great product, but I think some applications need a more durable gasket. I cannot explain why the vast majority of Motordyne ART installs have no problem. The problem seems to be limited to a few buyers. I have no idea what the underlying problem is with the people experiencing the leak problem and then the SEL.

Just my experience and I want to keep the pipes but I need a gasket solution.

Tony any chance we can get beefier gaskets, they are getting destroyed lol

What my question would be is high tight are people making their bolts and what are the torque specs? I don't think you want to completely crush a gasket... rather just make sure the bolt is just tight enough... which can be a fine line. I don't know myself, so i'm interested and if new gaskets do come out, I want :)

I wonder if someone could fab one out of solid sheet of aluminum and if that would work?

well this is all disappointing....i was considering buying these. Since i am also sc'd, i'm having second thoughts.

Being SC'd has nothing to do with it. Def Get it as a tiny gasket issue is easily fixable.

the SC brings more heat...and so far nobody knows what is causing the current gasket problem...but heat is a possibility. I don't want to go through hassle of installing pipes only to later have to take more time and money and hassle just to swap out gaskets. Would rather wait til the issue is corrected.

Don't give up.. All u need to do is put enough high temp sealant on the gasket and no blow puts.. It has worked for me everytime ...

Understandable fix, but we should not need to this.

Gasket should be about 0.050", no?

McMaster-Carr

Tony is a top notch guy and if there is a problem you can be sure that he will address it. Just keep your pants on lol.

These are the same gasket materials we have used with good success for several years but I'll look into more options.

You don't want to buy the part because of a gasket issue? Berk is having problems and maybe others as well, the problem will get solved I personally have not had issues in 500 miles... we'll see if that keeps up.

If you look at my posts bro I have been nothing but patient and encouraging other members to buy this. Small drawback for such a great product (even though I still got rattles 37drift gave me hope though!).

Just can't fathom having to pay again to get my gaskets switched again in the future.

why don't you do it yourself? It's only removing a few bolts and putting the gaskets in place.

Tools and time. Been swamped at work (13 hour shifts) so last thing I want to do is swap out a gasket lol..

I blew my gaskets out this yesterday on the track, installed last weekend.

How do you guys know that the gaskets are blowing out? CEL? Louder sound? Car acting funny?

Just curious.

Nasty noise, you'll know when your gasket is blown lol, sounds like $hit.

Btw can you tell me when your rattling stopped.

This is my list on how I could tell the gaskets were blown:

• Strange, raspy, rattling, whoosh exhaust notes directly under the driver/passenger. I have the OEM exhaust so it is really evident inside the car.
• More pronounced smell of fuel/exhaust than normally with test pipes
• SES - P2A03 and P0171
• Poor fuel mileage, I checked on the 2 days I had a good seal and was getting at least 3 MPG better. I think this is what caused the P0171 to make the O2 sensor think I was running lean.
• If you can get under the car, you can visually see the area of the leak (a very dark, black area) between the flanges. I could see a spot that appeared to be missing gasket material but it was actually burned all the way through.

My installer suggested this:
Add an exhaust gasket sealant in additional to new gaskets. Hopefully, this will do. If not, we can buy a sheet of metal exhaust gasket and get it cut out via WATERJET.

I am probably going to go the metal exhaust gasket fabrication route because I am guessing it will be the most durable in the long run.

^^
I completely agree. Tony and Motordyne are extremely good vendors with excellent customer service. I would not let the small percentage of people with gasket problems deter anyone from buying the product.

This will get sorted out.