So I'm at the part where you need to remove the air ducts. I got the drivers side out just fine, but I'm having problems with the passenger side. I
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09-04-2010, 12:25 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Installing G3 Intakes, need some help..
So I'm at the part where you need to remove the air ducts. I got the drivers side out just fine, but I'm having problems with the passenger side. I removed the bolt and undid the clip, but the part where the bolt went can't clear past the window washer fluid tube. I've tried finagling it as much as I could, but it just can't clear it. I haven't seen anything about this in the DIY's, so I figured I must be doing something wrong?
Any ideas? I'm scratching my head here.
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09-04-2010, 12:36 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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I took out the engine bay brace, it gave me a bit more room to work with. Did you try that ?
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09-04-2010, 12:39 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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No, I didn't yet. I'll do that now. Soooo many bolts though!
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09-04-2010, 12:42 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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Do the engine brace bolts need to be retorqued to a certain amount?
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09-04-2010, 12:49 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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Did you see the write up AK370Z did it's pretty damn good.
http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...de-ak370z.html
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09-04-2010, 12:51 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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Yep, I did use that writeup (and the other one), but neither of them mention any issues like this. Pain in the ******* ***!
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09-04-2010, 01:07 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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Thanks a ton! I was able to remove the duct without damage once I removed the brace and took off the washer fluid neck. It's damn hot out here!
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09-04-2010, 01:08 PM | #10 (permalink) |
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Definitely remove the crossbrace. No issues doing this with it off. For enlarging the holes, see my post below if you are using a Dremel, I found the perfect Dremel bit.
[QUOTE=370Zsteve;595476]A great tool for cutting the holes, the Dremel Carbide Cutting and Shaping Tool. Available at HD, Lowe's, any hardware store that carries Dremel stuff. It cut through the material like butter, and you can use it almost like a lathe as well as a cutter. Total cutting/shaping time: about 5 minutes per side. Cost was $16 [/QU When re-tightening the crossbrace without a torque wrench, just tighten until snug (do not overdo it and strip a bolt or worse), then run the car thru some twisties for a bit and retighten. Better yet, buy a torque wrench!
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09-04-2010, 01:17 PM | #12 (permalink) |
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I already had the main engine bay brace removed. The extra brace I had to remove was the one at the very front of the bay that goes completely across (in two pieces with a center piece holding them both together).
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09-04-2010, 03:41 PM | #13 (permalink) |
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I had no problem removing my stock intakes and installing the Stillen units with my brace still bolted in place. It is easiest to undo the hose coming off the airbox, loosen all the other clamps, and then remove the airbox. It all will just slide right out.
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09-04-2010, 06:56 PM | #14 (permalink) |
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Kind of odd that no one else seemed to have the problem I had with not being able to get the passenger side air duct out without taking apart more things, it seemed way to big to squeeze past the washer fluid neck.
Anyways, I finished the install, turned out great.
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09-04-2010, 07:00 PM | #15 (permalink) |
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Make sure you used the spare hose to protect the A/C lines! It is definately not a hard install as long as you take your time and trim the pass throughs well.
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-320whp / 259wftlbs- SP Rays -- RE-11s -- SpecialtyZ Tune -- Swift Springs -- Stillen 25R Oil Cooler -- Stillen G3 Intakes -- Berk HFCs -- F.I. 12" CBE -- Stillen Sway Bars -- Es14 Spring -- INGS+1 lip -- CF Spoiler -- GTR Start Button -- VLED Parking Lights -- PWJDM V2 shift knob |
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