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Installing G3 Intakes, need some help..

So I'm at the part where you need to remove the air ducts. I got the drivers side out just fine, but I'm having problems with the passenger side. I

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Old 09-04-2010, 12:25 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Exclamation Installing G3 Intakes, need some help..

So I'm at the part where you need to remove the air ducts. I got the drivers side out just fine, but I'm having problems with the passenger side. I removed the bolt and undid the clip, but the part where the bolt went can't clear past the window washer fluid tube. I've tried finagling it as much as I could, but it just can't clear it. I haven't seen anything about this in the DIY's, so I figured I must be doing something wrong?

Any ideas? I'm scratching my head here.
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Old 09-04-2010, 12:36 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I took out the engine bay brace, it gave me a bit more room to work with. Did you try that ?
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Old 09-04-2010, 12:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
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No, I didn't yet. I'll do that now. Soooo many bolts though!
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Old 09-04-2010, 12:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Do the engine brace bolts need to be retorqued to a certain amount?
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Old 09-04-2010, 12:45 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I believe so but i don't know what they are off hand.
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Old 09-04-2010, 12:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Did you see the write up AK370Z did it's pretty damn good.

http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...de-ak370z.html
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Old 09-04-2010, 12:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yep, I did use that writeup (and the other one), but neither of them mention any issues like this. Pain in the ******* ***!
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Old 09-04-2010, 01:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The torque for the bolts on the brace are 38ft/lbs.
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Old 09-04-2010, 01:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks a ton! I was able to remove the duct without damage once I removed the brace and took off the washer fluid neck. It's damn hot out here!
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Old 09-04-2010, 01:08 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Definitely remove the crossbrace. No issues doing this with it off. For enlarging the holes, see my post below if you are using a Dremel, I found the perfect Dremel bit.

[QUOTE=370Zsteve;595476]A great tool for cutting the holes, the Dremel Carbide Cutting and Shaping Tool. Available at HD, Lowe's, any hardware store that carries Dremel stuff. It cut through the material like butter, and you can use it almost like a lathe as well as a cutter. Total cutting/shaping time: about 5 minutes per side. Cost was $16

[/QU

When re-tightening the crossbrace without a torque wrench, just tighten until snug (do not overdo it and strip a bolt or worse), then run the car thru some twisties for a bit and retighten. Better yet, buy a torque wrench!
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Old 09-04-2010, 01:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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No problem anytime ...
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Old 09-04-2010, 01:17 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I already had the main engine bay brace removed. The extra brace I had to remove was the one at the very front of the bay that goes completely across (in two pieces with a center piece holding them both together).
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Old 09-04-2010, 03:41 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I had no problem removing my stock intakes and installing the Stillen units with my brace still bolted in place. It is easiest to undo the hose coming off the airbox, loosen all the other clamps, and then remove the airbox. It all will just slide right out.
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Old 09-04-2010, 06:56 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Kind of odd that no one else seemed to have the problem I had with not being able to get the passenger side air duct out without taking apart more things, it seemed way to big to squeeze past the washer fluid neck.

Anyways, I finished the install, turned out great.
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Old 09-04-2010, 07:00 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Make sure you used the spare hose to protect the A/C lines! It is definately not a hard install as long as you take your time and trim the pass throughs well.
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