Originally Posted by JvKintheUSA +1! These look nice - ordered me a pair! let us know how they work out..i noticed that theyre 3 ply vs the 4 ply cobb
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06-29-2010, 10:19 PM | #17 (permalink) | |
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Uploaded some pictures. Installation was fairly easy, but i had to take the strut bar off. The hoses do not flex, so it was basically impossible to get the tubes on without removing it. I was able to get the driver's side on initially, but the passenger side was impossible to install without the strut bar removed. I also had to cut about 1/2 inch off the tubing (too long - obviously). Engine seems louder - similar when I had the R2Cs installed.
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Last edited by JvKintheUSA; 07-08-2010 at 02:00 PM. |
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06-30-2010, 04:01 PM | #18 (permalink) | ||
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07-01-2010, 08:13 AM | #20 (permalink) |
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Sounds good! I'm going to stick with the AFE dry filters and the solid PMAF pipes, either Cobb or maybe something custom on there. I figure for $115 to $125 it costs for the Cobb pipes, I easily could buy some standard 45 degree aluminum pipes, weld on the connections on the side and have them ceramic coated for a nice shine and heat protection (and a little bling). They will be a bit shorter though as I dont want to cut the airboxes.
End result would hopefully be a bit better throttle response, some blind, bit more engine sound and maybe a few hp. Out of curiosity, are the Takeda pipes 2.75" up to the throttle bodies (I know they reduce near the MAF)? Need to know what size to go with. Thanks!
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2013 Ford Mustang GT 374rwhp, 360rwtq SAE / GT500 Axle-Backs / Brembo Pack / Track Pack / Recaros / 6spd Last edited by '10Anamoly; 07-01-2010 at 08:16 AM. |
07-01-2010, 05:45 PM | #21 (permalink) | |
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07-01-2010, 06:47 PM | #23 (permalink) |
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$580??? lol, ARC is an awesome company but a piece of aluminum pipe with their logo for that much, not on my dime.
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07-07-2010, 03:34 PM | #25 (permalink) |
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Any news? How'd they turn out?
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07-08-2010, 09:34 AM | #27 (permalink) |
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My Cobb tubes are in, took me about 30 minutes. It's not quite as easy as it looks considering they do not flex much, but it was not a terribly hard install. They look good and with the AFE filters the car seems to pull a bit harder up top. No downsides so far for me!
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07-09-2010, 02:14 PM | #28 (permalink) |
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Update:
After a few days of driving, it might just be that the car revs smoother but these seem a bit less torquey than the stock tubes. Not sure if the car is slower or faster really but its just what I noticed. Anybody else notice this? I might swap the stock tubes back in and see if its any different. Only thing I can think is if the internal diameter is bigger than the car likes or something.
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07-09-2010, 02:36 PM | #29 (permalink) | |
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Manual Method Here is a quick way to reset your ECU. It is also known to clear codes thrown, and turn off the "Service Engine Soon" Light. It's a little tricky, but works. 1.Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition ON switch and wait 3 seconds. 2.Repeat the following two procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds: 1.Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD). 2.Fully release the accelerator pedal. 3.Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking. 4.Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking) 5.Wait about 10 seconds. 6.Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds. 7.Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink). 8.Turn ignition switch to OFF position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
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07-09-2010, 03:00 PM | #30 (permalink) |
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Yep, I reset the ECU and put a good 200 miles on it, did not like how it ran so I just put the stock tubes back on. Seems to run much better now already just cruising around. Cobbs going up for sale..
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