let us know how they work out..i noticed that theyre 3 ply vs the 4 ply cobb one..both reinforced..

Will do! I figured for $110 I cant go wrong. I'll try to post some close-up pics as well, so people can compare to the Cobb tubes.

Uploaded some pictures. Installation was fairly easy, but i had to take the strut bar off. The hoses do not flex, so it was basically impossible to get the tubes on without removing it. I was able to get the driver's side on initially, but the passenger side was impossible to install without the strut bar removed. I also had to cut about 1/2 inch off the tubing (too long - obviously). Engine seems louder - similar when I had the R2Cs installed.

I think it took 5 business days.

Your going to notice better throttle response and the car seems to breathe better in the low and mid range. The Takeda Intake was the first part I put on the car then HFC, CBE, and AAM Cobb Tune. I noticed the intake temps were high so I took off the Takeda Intake and ran the stock intake for a week before I hacked up the Takeda Tubes to fit the stock box. As soon as I changed the stock tubes with the Takeda I got back the whoosh intake sound, this was with the paper filters. The AFE Filters added a bit more flow and maybe a few HP. The 370z Stock Intake is actually pretty good from the factory but every little bit helps.

Hmm I'm now considering the Cobb tubes as I'd like to keep the stock intakes (running HKS filters). They are claiming 6hp on the HPS tubes too?

Sounds good! I'm going to stick with the AFE dry filters and the solid PMAF pipes, either Cobb or maybe something custom on there. I figure for $115 to $125 it costs for the Cobb pipes, I easily could buy some standard 45 degree aluminum pipes, weld on the connections on the side and have them ceramic coated for a nice shine and heat protection (and a little bling). They will be a bit shorter though as I dont want to cut the airboxes.

End result would hopefully be a bit better throttle response, some blind, bit more engine sound and maybe a few hp. :)

Out of curiosity, are the Takeda pipes 2.75" up to the throttle bodies (I know they reduce near the MAF)? Need to know what size to go with. Thanks!

I will have to check I do think it is 2.75" up to the throttle body. I say this because when I bought the 3" coupler to connect the throttle body to the intake tube it has a bit of room like the coupler is just a little bigger then the throttle body and Takeda Tube.

how about these?

ARC Intake Suction Pipe NISSAN 370Z 40TH ANNIVERSARY EDITION; BASE; NISMO; TOURING 2009 - 2010 3.7 ASPZ34

$580??? lol, ARC is an awesome company but a piece of aluminum pipe with their logo for that much, not on my dime.

yeah it says intake suction pipe (singular)..580 for 1 pipe:confused::rofl2:

Any news? How'd they turn out?

I just received them today. I will install them Thursday and take some pics.

My Cobb tubes are in, took me about 30 minutes. It's not quite as easy as it looks considering they do not flex much, but it was not a terribly hard install. They look good and with the AFE filters the car seems to pull a bit harder up top. No downsides so far for me!

Update:

After a few days of driving, it might just be that the car revs smoother but these seem a bit less torquey than the stock tubes. Not sure if the car is slower or faster really but its just what I noticed.

Anybody else notice this? I might swap the stock tubes back in and see if its any different. Only thing I can think is if the internal diameter is bigger than the car likes or something.

Did you reset your ECU after installing the filters and the tubes? If not you should reset your ECU using the Manual Method below or just unplug your battery for a few minutes and plug it back in. Battery method will reset your trip and radio setting though. But I have not been able to successfully reset the ECU using the Manual Method its not easy.


Manual Method
Here is a quick way to reset your ECU. It is also known to clear codes thrown, and turn off the "Service Engine Soon" Light. It's a little tricky, but works.

1.Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition ON switch and wait 3 seconds.
2.Repeat the following two procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds:
1.Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2.Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3.Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4.Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5.Wait about 10 seconds.
6.Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7.Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8.Turn ignition switch to OFF position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

Yep, I reset the ECU and put a good 200 miles on it, did not like how it ran so I just put the stock tubes back on. Seems to run much better now already just cruising around. Cobbs going up for sale..