R2C, Stillen HFC & Stillen exhaust dyno pull
 

Okay folks, I have a dyno pull scheduled for June 4th at Forged Performance., so we should finally see some numbers with the R2C intake. I will post the results as soon as I get them.

6/4/2010: I attached the results for my Dyno pull at Forged Performance today. As you can see, the results are 285.3 HP, which for an A/T is pretty good I was told. I know these numbers are meaningless for some, since we all want to know what each bolt-on adds, but ultimately the end result is what matters. The ambient temperature was 75F. Also, the pull was done in 4th gear - not sure if that matters or not. Next will be an ECU tune...

Will you have a before and after?

ooh in for this one. However, are you testing all of those together or just the r2c?

All the parts are installed already....

well, so much for this thread then if everything is being tested at once...

Well, since all are installed already, have you had a dyno pull with just the stillen HFC and exhaust already? Otherwise it will be hard to tell what the R2C is contributing.

Yes everything is already installed. SEMTEX did a dyno pull at Forged with just the Stillen CBE and a HFC and got about 292 HP, so I am using that as a baseline to see what the R2C is adding. I understand that weather and other factors influence the results, but at least it will be done on the same dyno. I guess the info will be useful for the folks that have the Stillen CBE and Stillen HFC installed and are mulling over what short intake to put in.

Still have the stock intakes? Bring them with.

ur also an A7 so your gonna make a lil less power regardless

So much for accurate results...

Accuracy is relative...

:confused:

uhh how is accuracy relative?

In the science of measuring things, "accuracy" refers to the difference between a measurement taken by a measuring tool and an actual value. For instance, a thermometer reading of 60 degrees Fahrenheit when the actual temperature is 62 degrees Fahrenheit is not totally accurate, though it is more accurate than a thermometer reading of 58 degrees Fahrenheit during that same time. The relative accuracy of a measurement can be expressed as a percentage; you might say that a thermometer is 98 percent accurate, or that it is accurate within 2 percent. So there you go.

The A7's typically dyno a little lower than the 6MTs as they suck more power from the engine.

I was under the impression that the torque converter locks so it gives you a solid connection to the rear wheels with this automatic.

My point is that it takes more effort to rotate the components in the A7 than it does in the 6MT, which results in slightly less power being transmitted to the wheels. The A7, as with most all automatics, "consume" more power than their manual counterparts.

It's just a case of efficiency. The 6MT is more efficient at transferring power through the drivetrain to the wheels than A7.

OP, what you will want to pay attention to is the difference between dynos with the different setups. If you still have your stock intakes, bring them with... heck, install them now, get a few runs with that setup, then put the R2c back in, and do some more runs.

The actual numbers really don't mean all that much, since every dyno is calibrated differently. There are just too many variables to compare Car A being dyno'd in California, to Car B being dyno'd in New York.

Ideally, you'd want to do a few pulls when stock to get a baseline, then install each mod independently to get more numbers, and so on... but that's not realistic for 99% of us as far as $$$$$$ is concerned.

If you were hoping to prove something about these intakes, using someone elses dyno as a baseline is not the way to do it. The gains from intakes are not that large and you are dealing with 2 different cars on different days. Regardless, good luck on your run =]

Agree with you 100%, but I installed my goodies when I lived in NE Ohio, there were no places to do a dyno run nearby to get a baseline. I don't feel like uninstalling the R2Cs, doing a dyno run, then installing the R2Cs again and do another run (plus the wife would kill me). Ultimately, I want to know what I have at the wheels now - I know it's more than stock. Posting the numbers will give people an idea what my setup delivers FWIW.

Very true! But you know you will be teased for being lazy, and whipped! lol ;)

Still in for the results! :D

Nah that wont work either. You have to drive several miles or do at least a good 6-10 runs on the dyno for the ECU to adjust to the new intakes.

Not to mention we all know Short rams either make negligible gains or lose power. The same car with the same setup will produce +- 7hp on different runs. So in all honesty, you're not going to be able to tell whether your car gained or lost power from the short rams regardless. You're gonna have to do a few runs at the same temperature get the average, then switch them out and drive around with those for a few miles, then come back and do a few runs at the same temp, average that and compare. Even then, the rest of the mods increase the deviation from run to run so much that its impossible to get any sort of conclusive results about the performance of the R2C.

Agree - if there were any gains from the R2C, they were not really noticeable. Even if I gained 10HP, the butt-dyno did not notice it. It did score on looks and sound. Also the filtration seems to be top notch and easy to clean. The crazy thing is that apparently the same intake on a G37 netted more HP than the Stillen G3. See attached graph.

Yeah, how was the testing done?

It is very hard to test any intake. The car sitting stationary on a dyno with the hood up or the bumper off and a fan trying to simulate driving down a highway has too many variables to accurately measure what is really happening. Regardless which intake you are using, the Modshack vent mod. will definitely help because cooler air is better.

Off topic, but has anyone gotten any good results from an ECU reflash?

Test results are in!

I'm glad someone finally has a dyno with these...But, you have nothing to compare those numbers to? No clue if it went up or down? lol

Correct! But - there is no reason the numbers would be lower with the R2Cs.

285, not bad. Whats a baseline for an AT?

That's something I'd like to know as well, but I did not have the money to do a stock dyno run and then another one after each bolt on.

Since every Dyno is going to give different results (not to mention different cars, ambient temperature, etc), no one is going to have any sort of baseline that is going to be useful for you to compare against.

I'm going to be getting my FI CBE, HFC's and AAM Cobb tune done at the end of the month. I'll be getting a before run, after boltons, and after tune run. Only thing I'll have on for the baseline is the K&N Dropins, the rest will be stock.

What's your impression of the R2C by the way? I'm thinking going that route as well, honestly because I think the colors of the R2C would match my car nicely... How was the install? Sound? Overall?

Otherwise I'm thinking of going the K&N drop in route with COBB Post MAF hoses.

I like the R2Cs a lot. The car was definitely louder, especially above 5k rpm. I actually ordered the black powder coated ones, but received the black chrome, which look really nice. Filters are nice and large and can be cleaned with an air hose when needed. As discussed before, no idea if there were any gains over the stock intake. Installation took me 2 hours or so. I made a little video last year as well:

YouTube - R2C Intake installed on 370Z

I have the R2Cs also and really like them. The black chrome looks great, the filters are easy to clean and the R2C filter has a great reputation. Add this with the Modshack vent and the intake temps stay between 8 to 10 degrees above ambient temps.

I'd love to add the Modshack vents myself aswell

285 on a dyno dynamics aint too shabby. Nice job.

Not true, some intakes actually cause a loss of power. For all you know you actually lost power. You'll never really know unless you do a proper test. I guess as long as your happy with it though it doesn't matter.

How were the intake temps tested?

Maybe down the line I will put the stock intakes back in and do another dyno run.